36" HobbyKing Flowmaster C1 cat came today...

[boilo56]

Did you experienced porpoising at high speed? Mine is doing so, i think. You can hear the motor noise pitch changing in s regular pattern while i'm running WOT. If you look at my vids, maybe you could tell me what you think about it.

The stigner are set at +2 from factory. Did you gain anything? Speed increase, stability increase, temps decreasing, or increase in run time?

[lt130th]

Did you experienced porpoising at high speed? Mine is doing so, i think. You can hear the motor noise pitch changing in s regular pattern while i'm running WOT. If you look at my vids, maybe you could tell me what you think about it.

The stigner are set at +2 from factory. Did you gain anything? Speed increase, stability increase, temps decreasing, or increase in run time?

My stingers weren't even set to matching angles out of the box so they had to be adjusted. I had a little porpoising on my first strut setting, so I lowered them (less positive angle) a little and I don't have any hopping/porpoising now. Less risk of catching air & flipping, now. Rides nice & smooth. I think it's at a happy meduim for speed and stability. I haven't been able to get these motors & stock ESC's very warm at all, yet. I'm having to make some changes inside the hull, though, to fit the 120A ESC's in there & the 6500mAh batteries I want to use in it. Waiting for parts to arrive. I'll share some photo's & video when it's back on the water.

P.S.: I also had to tighten all the screws on the stingers & tighten the threaded ring that holds the stingers in the transom plates. I'll probably pull both stingers off & add some carbon fiber plate with epoxy to the inside of the sponsons where they mount. Then drill out the holes & put the stingers back on with plumber's putty & blue thread-lock.

[boilo56]

The t120s will fit right on the stock ESC spot. I mounted mine at this place.IMG_20150711_125106.jpg. But for 6500, i think you need to put them at 90 degree. Meaning that you need to design a new battery tray. i thought about that, and will post some pictures and info in my build thread. So if i put the stingers at +/- 0, it should get rid of some of the porpoising?

[lt130th]

My Hyperion packs fit in the stock battery tray (very snug) in width, but they are just a few millimeters longer than the stock tray. I picked up a pair of these 120A ESC's, new, for a good deal:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...C_4A_UBEC.html

They are as long as the battery tray is wide, so I'm cutting out the wood battery tray, laying down a pair of fiberglass battery trays & mounting the ESC's on fiberglass trays ahead of the motors, down in the sponsons. I'll do a foam pour into the front half of the hull, first, because I had to pull out all that foam that came in it.

If you set your stingers parallel to the bottom edge of the sponsons (0°), you'll be pushing too much water & losing speed. When you have them set parallel to the bottom edge, raise the ends (at the drive dog)about 1/8" and that should be a fairly good starting point. I sat the boat on a large desk top & used a hex-key/wrench as a spacer to set them at identical angles with respect to the ride pad surfaces.

[boilo56]

Oh yeah. That was the very first thing I did. On my last run I had them at about -3° (going by the gauge on the stingers) but they are actually at a positive angle if you consider the ride-pads neutral or 0°. I'm not near the boat right now to measure. I felt the boat was running just about right at that angle, though.

On second thought, if you have you stigners at -3 and still have positive angle, this means that the transom mounting area on your boat is not at 90* with the ride pads...! Man, i should check that!!! i already noticed that the ride pads on my boat doesn't have the same angle... aren't they supposed to be in strait line one to the other?

[lt130th]

I wish I was near the boat right now. I only have this King of Shaves P1 next to me, at the moment, and it has the same stinger. The gauge is negative degrees on the bottom, so when you raise the strut, it will read a negative value...or at least that's the way I read it. I use the bottom edge of the arm the bolt runs through as the line passing through the gauge hash-marks/tick-marks. On the King of Shaves, the transom is less than 90 degrees to the keel, so it is reading about +2 degrees in that picture, while the strut is actually almost parallel with the vee bottom.

20150729_004913.jpg

[lt130th]

The ride pads are not "flush" with one another. They are in sort of a saw-tooth/serrated configuration. Maybe you can see it from one of these pictures. That's a Fightercat Daytona underneath the HK Flowmaster and it is very similar in dimension and shape...

[boilo56]

Ok, i just checked my boat, and i realized that the "-" on the stigner actually means a positive angle (prop going upward).
.)

[boilo56]

And i also see what you mean about the saw tooth thing. i thought it was a defect of the hull, so no need to blueprint it.?
The zero i was refering to is from the boat sitting on a flat surface and struts parallel to the flat surface.

[boilo56]

Man, if you look at the pics, they looks like fakes!!! not saying that, but if you look at the second one, the steps don't line up on the right side of the picture!! weird! But i get your point.

[lt130th]

You're correct. No blueprinting, and zero degrees should be parallel to flat surface the whole boat is resting on.

[lt130th]

Man, if you look at the pics, they looks like fakes!!! not saying that, but if you look at the second one, the steps don't line up on the right side of the picture!! weird! But i get your point.

The HK Flowmaster is resting on top of the FC Daytona and I wasn't able to make it sit right on the six points of each hull. It would slide right off, so I had to rest it where the points were on a straight edge, which means the Flowmaster hull is an inch or two offset. I probably should've stood both hulls up, standing on their tips, bottoms together, for a better side-by-side. But at the time, those images were only supposed to show the similarity in width between the HobbyKing Genesis and this Flowmaster. It was difficult to balance the Flowmaster up there long enough to take the pic's. I was nervous and clicking pictures fast hoping the thing wouldn't slide off and hit the ground before I could catch it.

[boilo56]

Ok, t thought the boat was resting on a glass table... i thoghtthat the bottom hull was a reflexion on the glass.

[z400]

The ride pads are not "flush" with one another. They are in sort of a saw-tooth/serrated configuration. Maybe you can see it from one of these pictures. That's a Fightercat Daytona underneath the HK Flowmaster and it is very similar in dimension and shape...

Ok, t thought the boat was resting on a glass table... i thoghtthat the bottom hull was a reflexion on the glass.

READ!!!
The information is right there in front of you.

[lt130th]

READ!!!
The information is right there in front of you.

Haha! z400 is having a tough day...or week or month. Time to kick back with a classic film like Falling Down or Mike Judge's Office Space & get some empathy comfort. Take a pass on Idiocracy tonight. As over the top as that movie is, the underlying message is too true, & will probably make you more aggravated.