Shocker First Maiden Run -- ESC Literally BLOWS through Hull

[Luck as a Constant]

Sorry Doug
-)


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[flraptor07]

With some killer pickups you might have been able to push past those kinks. The pickups shown in earlier pics probably only provided minimal pressure. Then with a pinch........no water.

Rudder pick ups are more reliable as they're always in the water. Prop wash pickup loops are great too but always look so cheesy to me. A bottom feed is in the water until you are really flying which this setup probably will be. Still canould work though. People do that but the tube needs to be pointed into the water for it to work well.

Check out picture number 2 on one of Steve's pickups. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80515 It's angled into the flow of water.

I still would go with a rudder inlet given the choice.

Those are actually good pickups, they provide great preasure. I used them one time when I was hunting a problem that I thought was the through hull pickups I made in a hull. Turns out the problem wasn't the pickups at all.

[T.S.Davis]

Those are actually good pickups, they provide great preasure. I used them one time when I was hunting a problem that I thought was the through hull pickups I made in a hull. Turns out the problem wasn't the pickups at all.

I'm sure those picks ups from Steve do work but I guess when I looked at the ones on the bottom of this build it looks like the pick ups just go straight up at 90 degrees to direction of flow. Maybe it's an optical thing but they don't look like they're going to give him what he needs the way they are.

[keithbradley]

oh and by the way , i've been around some clubs and something sticked out : it where always the same guy's who had " bad luck " when they bought something , and it where always they same guys who's electronics seemed to last for ever
stange strange strange isn't it?

The guys who experience failures either get discouraged and leave the hobby, or learn from their experiences and apply that knowledge moving forward. Those who have fried, burned, broken, loved and lost have a lot of knowledge to offer. I'm not sure that saying you've never experienced a parts failure is a good thing. Everyone in the peanut gallery can make the same claim that they've never experienced parts failure (my grandmother never had a bad ESC either), but it takes some failures to truly know where the line is. I'm not suggesting that you're in the peanut gallery, just that it may not be the brag you think it is.

I would agree that the majority of ESC failures are not due to a faulty ESC. Some are due to improper use or exposure to water, many I think are victim to poor quality or damaged motors.

[dmitry100]

tlandauer: The guy says he tested it before sending it off... but somehow I really doubt it. As the rudder was missing a bolt and rudder was just hanging there. Either way the guy thinks the motor cans could have turned inside the hull causing the tubes to get crushed lol. Not sure how that could be possible in like 3 mins time, but ok.

I think it would have just been a matter of time before the good side could have burned up too with those crushed tubes... the bad side just beat it to it I think mostly because the driveline was misaligned and was just generating a lot more resistance... possibly with the combination of crushed tubes too. Those tubes were only like 2-3mm diameter so it prob doesn't take much as they aren't the nice and flexible silicon ones.

[kfxguy]

tlandauer: The guy says he tested it before sending it off... but somehow I really doubt it. As the rudder was missing a bolt and rudder was just hanging there. Either way the guy thinks the motor cans could have turned inside the hull causing the tubes to get crushed lol. Not sure how that could be possible in like 3 mins time, but ok.

I think it would have just been a matter of time before the good side could have burned up too with those crushed tubes... the bad side just beat it to it I think mostly because the driveline was misaligned and was just generating a lot more resistance... possibly with the combination of crushed tubes too. Those tubes were only like 2-3mm diameter so it prob doesn't take much as they aren't the nice and flexible silicon ones.

It's probably a good thing the rudder was removed and just hanging there when he shipped it to you, I always remove them like that before shipping. If not, imagine what would happens if it got banged around. Maybe the screw was lost or still somewhere in the box. Anyway, seems like you've found your issues, get em fixed and have a go at it again. This time checking temps very often. I usually make a quick circle and bring it right back in if its something I'm not familiar with. Just check often until you know everything is ok.

[tlandauer]

tlandauer: The guy says he tested it before sending it off... but somehow I really doubt it. As the rudder was missing a bolt and rudder was just hanging there. Either way the guy thinks the motor cans could have turned inside the hull causing the tubes to get crushed lol. Not sure how that could be possible in like 3 mins time, but ok.

I think it would have just been a matter of time before the good side could have burned up too with those crushed tubes... the bad side just beat it to it I think mostly because the driveline was misaligned and was just generating a lot more resistance... possibly with the combination of crushed tubes too. Those tubes were only like 2-3mm diameter so it prob doesn't take much as they aren't the nice and flexible silicon ones.

I don't have a clue why he said the motor jacket will turn during transit, it can't!
But when you get everything in order, get some better tubes, these white ones are thin walled and easy to collapse. The most practical ones are made by Dubro and it is light blue and TowerHobbies has them.http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD729&P=SM
OSE also have them but I don't know if they are made by Dubro. There are other more fancy ones and some are quite stiff and not easy to get pinched, but if it is too stiff, inside your boat where space is limited that could be a difficult issue.
as Keithbradley said, you learn and gain from this experience, I am sorry that it can be aggravating, I have been there also.

[iridebikes247]

Still though, pull both motors out and remove the face plates. Make sure the rotors aren't destroyed. Burning another esc won't be fun I don't think cooling is your problem. Anyone that's blown a line in a boat knows a pickup is like a pressure washer.

If the motors check out, and you don't have a horribly aligned flex, you won't burn another esc.

http://kintecracing.com/Water_Cooling_BQFJ.html

I'm a fan of this cooling line, I would get the 3/7mm line, the other is kind of loose on some fittings especially for smaller motors/components. You're not cooking things because of an overly aggressive setup, give everything a once over and also when you throw packs back on the charger make SURE the voltage is extremely close. I've had failures before that were explained more easily after checking cell voltage.

[dmitry100]

So when I was in the process of removing the good side's motor from the mount... I noticed that the motor can spun easily in place-- the top of the can was loose. So that's a bit odd. So I unscrewed it completely and looked okay in there. On the other hand... the other motor can I couldn't get to unscrew. You guys have any suggestions as to how I should get it to screw open? Tried a few things like pliers... no go. Its on really tight.

[tlandauer]

The motor can or the water jacket was loose----is that what you mean? If that was the case, it made sense your guy told you that it moved and the water fittings got to the bottom.
The motor can can't be turned with the motor mounted to the mount.
As for the other motor, can you take it off the motor mount? It is one thing that you can't take the water jacket off, but the screws attaching the motor to the mount is another story. Those you need to be careful not to strip the head of the screw.
As for taking down a stubborn water jacket, what I do is I mount the motor on another piece of metal to act like a handle, so I can grab the metal with one hand and use the other hand to pull the jacket off in a twist and turn fashion. You might want to put some silicone oil or WD-40 in the "O" ring grooves .
Note, I prefer silicon based oil as it will not have any effects on the "O" rings. WD-40 can hurt the rubber in prolonged contact, that is just my personal take on that.

[dmitry100]

What I meant was the can of the motor... I already took the motors off their mounts. I was able to open up the good side's motor. The other motor I'm unable to pop open... The top plate of the motor has a thread which allows you to unscrew it. I'll upload a pic here in a bit to show you what I mean.

Also, I got my Seaking program card and was able to find out the motor timing from the good ESC-- it was set at 15 degrees (value 5 setting for Seaking card. Is that technically too high or not so much?

[tlandauer]

I am not familiar with the particular motor you have. In general, "Y" motor the timing should be set at 15* where as "D" motor should be set low between 0 - 4*. What does the Tenshock website say? Sometimes motor makers specify the timing.
As for the front end bell, guess you need to mount it some where and turn the body of the motor can. Does that make sense?

"Y" and "D" are winding type.
For instance: A Neu 1515 1Y ( 2200kv) timing can be set at 15*
A Neu 1515 2.5D (1650kv) timing should be low, like between 0-4*.u

[martin]

Tenshock recommend 8-10 degrees timing.

[dmitry100]

Hmmm...

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...s=strap+wrench

I'll maybe try something like this to open up the motor but for smaller sizes....

[dmitry100]

Ok, so today I tested the good side's motor and the ESC timing in the range of 7.5* - 11* (along with the bad side's motor on 3s) ... and this is what I have noticed so far.

The motors were not mounted to the driveline, they were by themselves stand alone (gripping them with hand at higher throttle).

Running the "good" motor on 3s versus 6s produced these results: The motor starts getting hot within around 20-30 seconds producing a temperature of around 120-130* F with gradual bursts of low to medium and medium to high throttle.
When reaching the highest throttle at the max RPM on 6s the motor starts to give off a choking or hiccup sound as if the motor itself is shorting or pooping out... doesn't sound very normal at all so I would let go of the throttle.
I tested this motor with 2 different ESC's (the Seaking 180 and Swordfish 200) with different timings all producing no difference in temperature for the motor. The temp of the ESC's would remain cold to the touch at all times.
At 3s the motor would sound smooth at low and high throttle and would remain just slightly warm to touch.

So testing the "bad" side's motor on 3s on the Seaking 180: At lowest and highest throttle the motor would sound like the bearings are "unlubricated"... hoarse and not smooth at all compared to the good motor.

So let me know what you guys think... My conclusion is that they were probably already damaged/burnt/defective before I got them as I remember calibrating the throttle and they would sound just like this at highest throttle.

Maybe I should just make a video of this to illustrate all this a little better :)