On the Swordfish ESC calibrate the throttle on the esc with the radio set at 100% THEN after the ESC is calibrated change the radio to 120%! Works every time.
Fighter cat rocket and New Mean machine single
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Right now it's calibrated at 150 present, should I turn the radio down then re cal and bump it up?the boat runs concesistant 47mphComment
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As for the prop, I just want to see more speed without damaging anything. Size make or model does not mater to me. I do like the look of the three blades though.Comment
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M series has the de-tongued feature which I really like. X series gives more bite in the get go moments.
I personally prefer two blade props, three blade props load up the motor more, some prefer the three bladed ones. Do a search on props and there are discussions that will help you to make a better decision.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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Tlandauer, how does your boat Handel the m545? I was looking at that one and mabe a x645/6 with the toungs removed.Comment
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I maidened with a m445, speed was not gps'd, but judging your video, it was very similar by that I mean the ride attitude of the hulls and speed as well. I was looking for a bit more speed without building too much heat, tried the M545 and to be honest, from the shore I could not tell that there was a big jump at the speed. May be a tick faster. But I didn't want to go to a 1.6 pitch, there seems to be quite a jump between the 445 and 645.
What's a X645/6? May be just a typo, anyway, my thought was that if you try with 5s, be sure to start with something smaller, like a 40mm prop.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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Got to the lake today, boat ran great. After recailbrating at 100 percent on the tx then bumping it to 150 percent the boat ran 51.1 no other mods!
Does anyone know about skuffing or truing the pads? I figured a straight board set across both sponsons and sand with 400 fwd to aft until completly square.Comment
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Great! Congrats!
I trued a couple of hulls and I had to sand and fill at the same time. They were problematic hulls that obviously needed blue printing. I don't think your MM has any issues other that you just improving it . Be extremely careful and slow going at it, I would use this as the sanding block: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK315&P=SM, this is their long version, it affords you a better control on squaring. The shorter version has its use as well. I prefer these than sanding block that is made of flexible material such as hard rubber.
I cut my own strip of sand paper and use 3M Super 77 spray glue, it is a PITA to take it off, but at least I can use whatever grit paper I please. Their sand paper has adhesive back, easy on, easy off.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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You are correct Im only looking for free mph at this point. I wasn't sure if I should bother with truing the hull but i know it helped a real boat i owned before. I got 5mph out of it. Should the pads in The rear be completly sq? And are people using 400 or 600 grit as a final? Should i skuff the tunnel as well?Comment
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Don't scuff the tunnel. I prefer 600 grit. Just carefully square your ride pads , as you have stated, the boat is running great already, do not alter anything. In your case it is just to sq. the bottom so it is flat against the surface. The angle to the transom and tunnel should be kept sharp.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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I used 600 and 400 didnt want to take to much. But they are as sq as I plan to make them. If I had white gel coat I would have built up the low spots first. Oh well it ran good now I hope it runs great. I was only going to do the rear set then realized they could all use a little love. I also sharpened all the 90 deg spots. Hoping for some free speed.Comment
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