best flex shaft lube?

**SweetAccord** · 03-02-2015, 11:50 PM

Great you understand! Well for size, there is no rule, just obviously not a smaller diameter than whatever the oiler is that you will use to feed oil into it, nor larger than the diameter of the existing shaft tube diameter. I would say 3-4 millimeters is good or just a tad smaller than your existing shaft tube diameter. Also, go to Home Depot or an automotive store and get a small air pressure cap that you will use to cap the tube with, and make sure it fits before you solder or glue anything on.

**rearwheelin** · 03-03-2015, 12:48 AM

Hi all I just built this setup for 1/4" flex. I didn't go 2" from the collet side of stuffing tube but will be running a silicon tube seal, the flex fits perfectly threw it for a light seal , should help with the fling. I plan on running a light synthetic 0w. I will be going for long run time so I wanted a oiler up to the task

image.jpg

**Jeff** · 03-03-2015, 07:19 AM

Jim's R/C Boat Dock

http://jrcbd.com/forum/showthread.php?4606-Flex-oiler

This is a discussion forum that covers all types of radio control model boats. Gasoline two cycles engines primarily are covered but we have sections for electric power and nitro as well. If it moves on the water we have a discussion for it!

**tlandauer** · 03-06-2015, 07:42 PM

Originally posted by tlandauer

Mine are the smaller version that I use on my H&M Intruder S which is only 29" or so. None the less, I did everything you did, still get water....
I seldom have this issue, I need to try a couple of things when I have some time in the end of April.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

I did further static tests ( yes, in the pool

) today and looked CAREFULLY, my leak is from the hull! It is coming thru the tunnel from the back, there must be a pin hole, water is coming up in between the CF inlay. There are some factory blemishes from H&M 's gelcoat, I need to really look into it though. No time , have to work. Should I pour some thin CA and flood it from the area inside?
At least it is not my tape job.

**domwilson** · 03-06-2015, 11:25 PM

Here's an old thread that might be interesting...http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...highlight=lube

**tlandauer** · 03-09-2015, 10:36 PM

Thanks for the link.

**tlandauer** · 03-09-2015, 10:55 PM

This is unrelated, but I do want to say that water has the most mysterious way of finding its way into the hull. So after identifying the leak NOT from the TFL stinger, I looked and looked and see water comes through the mount around the sponson tear drop water pick up base.
I dabbed some CA in the Tear Drop hole around the brass tube. Problem gone!
Lesson learned, never over look at the obvious, there was a hair gap around the brass tube although it was glued in well, but the Dremel caused a little temperature when I was shaping the Tear Drop and must have dislodged the brass tube . believe it or not, that fact plus a tiny INTERNAL air pocket under the mount in the Epoxy was enough to invite water!
DSCN7696.jpg DSCN7694.jpg

**srislash** · 03-09-2015, 11:52 PM

Originally posted by tlandauer

This is unrelated, but I do want to say that water has the most mysterious way of finding its way into the hull. So after identifying the leak NOT from the TFL stinger, I looked and looked and see water comes through the mount around the sponson tear drop water pick up base.
I dabbed some CA in the Tear Drop hole around the brass tube. Problem gone!
Lesson learned, never over look at the obvious, there was a hair gap around the brass tube although it was glued in well, but the Dremel caused a little temperature when I was shaping the Tear Drop and must have dislodged the brass tube . believe it or not, that fact plus a tiny INTERNAL air bubble under the mount in the Epoxy was enough to invite water!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]128908[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]128907[/ATTACH]

I am going to have to start re-epoxy'ing mine now. Dang,LOL

Now back on subject: I have been using Lucas grease and few drips of DuraLube on my flexes for awhile now. All without liners. Better? mmm IDK but totally no issues so far.

**tlandauer** · 03-10-2015, 02:59 AM

Yes sir,
I hear you. I started using this because the container is tall and all I need to do is to dip the cable in and pull it out and no need to coat the cable with my hand.
http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-Mari...+marine+grease
it works great and for set ups without the liner I put a few drops of Sta-Lube Hypoid heavy Gear oil, so far this is working and I am happy.

**tlandauer** · 03-10-2015, 04:22 AM

Originally posted by fidelity101

Do you TFL drives have two plastic cups that surround the ball which goes inside the hull? That seems like a pretty solid design as long as the plastic inserts don't fracture. Do you use teflon tube with your setup? If so, I had a problem before in which the teflon tube was just small enough that it rotated inside the tube. The water was actually coming in between the teflon tube and the copper tube...I fixed it buy wrapping the teflon tube with a little teflon tape to increase the diameter and prevent it from spinning. I also use the STS-250's in my larger hulls, which allows me to easily press grease into the shaft after each run...something I really wish I could do with this Mystic but it has 1/4" tube and I can't find a fitting that will allow me to force grease into the shaft.

Also, the 1/4" tubes appear to have a little bit of an S curve to them...which I'm guessing helps keep the water out as well.

Sorry, I did not see this response, don't mean to be rude. No, mine don't have a plastic cup, these began their life as 80mm long/4mm stingers which I drilled out the teflon bushings ( followed advice from srislash) and inserted a 1/4 brass tube as sleeve ( red thread locked in the stinger barrel) with floating brass bushing. I think yours are a great deal bigger and more robust. I could not fit anything larger than these on my hull. But as I have found out in the mean time, my problem is not related to the TFL stingers and I luckily for me I was able to quickly pinpoint the source of my problem.

**rickwess** · 03-10-2015, 07:21 AM

Lots of "eye of newt" happening with this.........LOL. I'm sure there are thousands of petroleum products that all work similarly.

I use the Pro Boat grease. Not because I think grease is the best but because of the pump gun that attaches to the tube. I love it. Case in point........I just finished two Mini Eco's and it made getting grease past the bearing clean and simple.

**planezero** · 07-29-2015, 10:15 AM

Corrosion-X

Originally posted by tlandauer

Of all the valuable lessons I learned from Fluid ( thank you sir) , two things stick out in my memories and they have nothing to do with motors, props, hulls and anything "boat" wise.
First lesson was to use a bit of anti seize compound on the collet, it prevents metal to metal galling and you can tighten it up much more than without the magic grease.
Lesson number two was using Automotive gear oil in tubes w/o the liner. As good as the Grim Racer grease is, it is not the same as the gear oil. Read the link Doug posted: #32 and #35 posts.
One thing I don't do is senseless bench testing, so I have progressed a bit....

Corrosion-X claims to do all of this ... anti-seize lubricant - water expellant .. WOHOOO !!!

CorrosionX – Corrosion Technologies

http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx.html

Kills Rust and Corrosion World's Greatest Lubricant, Penetrant & Anti-Seize Safe on Electronics CorrosionX is the most advanced and effective corrosion prevention compound, lubricant and penetrant in the world! Although it may look like a typical oil-based anti-corrosion spray, CorrosionX utilizes a revolutionary technology called Polar Bonding™ that does far more than merely slow down the corrosion process like those so-called 'corrosion inhibitors'. Corrosion-X actually kills existing rust and corrosion (keeping it from spreading) and provides long-term protection against rust and corrosion on any metal surface. Learn More | Brochure | Product Data Sheet | SDS | SDS (aerosol version) CorrosionX is the only product available to the public that meets the US Navy's tough new corrosion prevention and control performance requirement MIL-PRF-81309H. Corrosion Protection and Rust Preventive Coating Due to Polar Bonding, CorrosionX causes common metals and metal alloys such as iron, steel, stainless steel, aluminum, copper, brass, bronze, etc. to chemically behave more like noble metals such as gold and platinum. In other words, as long as CorrosionX is present on metal, it can't rust or corrode! CorrosionX also has a dielectric characteristic, so it's safe on electronics and completely shuts down electrolysis between dissimilar metals. Use CorrosionX wherever you want corrosion control without paint or wax coatings. A light spray of CorrosionX on power heads, gensets and engines a couple of times a year will keeping them looking like new – even in saltwater and coastal environments. To learn more about Polar Bonding, please visit our technology page. A Breakthrough Lubricant CorrosionX's unique formulation offers a multitude of advantages over conventional spray lubricants. Because it sticks to metal like a magnet, it cannot be easily displaced by pressure, friction or moisture. It lubricates under extreme loads and high temperatures. Not only does CorrosionX lubricate better, it lasts many times longer! This is especially true in outdoor, coastal and marine environments where direct exposure to rain and sea spray will quickly displace ordinary lubricants. Use CorrosionX on sheaves, hinges, locks, cable/wire rope, windlasses or any metal part needing lubrication. It is ideal for fishing reels and firearms. Unbeatable Penetrant CorrosionX also penetrates faster and further than anything you've ever used. Corroded or rusted nuts, bolts or fittings can usually be disassembled within a few minutes. Even items you believe to be hopelessly seized can usually be saved and returned to service. Watch this time lapse video closely! Due to it's unique Polar Bonding characteristic, CorrosionX is such an incredible penetrant that it will defy gravity and climb straight up this 3" bolt!! Safe On Electronics Water and electronics don't mix. Until now, there haven't been many options for protecting or restoring electronics from moisture intrusion. CorrosionX's unique Polar Bonding Fluid Thin Film Coating (FTFC) technology displaces moisture and seals it out with a self-healing high dielectric coating. Even though the CorrosionX has a dielectric property in excess of 39,000 volts, because it forms an ultra-thin film it does not interfere with electronics or heat dissipation. A must for all marine battery terminals, and a mission critical product for drones and all Remote Control hobbyists. Minimal Environmental Impact Product The volatile organic content (usually abbreviated as VOC or VOCs) of CorrosionX is now ZERO. Compare that to most products in the spray lubricant category, which can be 50% or more VOC (for example, according to their current Safety Data Sheet, WD-40 is 49.5% solvent). That means CorrosionX is many times more gentle on you, your equipment and the environment.

Any comments from anyone on using Corrosion-X ?

I personally wouldnt rely on it alone - Id put a little marine grease on the flex tubes and take yours/Jay's advice (thanks) on the anti-seize compund tip and apply just some Corrosion-X to where the coupler grips.

KR,
Berry

**kfxguy** · 07-29-2015, 11:11 AM

Originally posted by planezero

Corrosion-X claims to do all of this ... anti-seize lubricant - water expellant .. WOHOOO !!!

CorrosionX – Corrosion Technologies

http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx.html

Kills Rust and Corrosion World's Greatest Lubricant, Penetrant & Anti-Seize Safe on Electronics CorrosionX is the most advanced and effective corrosion prevention compound, lubricant and penetrant in the world! Although it may look like a typical oil-based anti-corrosion spray, CorrosionX utilizes a revolutionary technology called Polar Bonding™ that does far more than merely slow down the corrosion process like those so-called 'corrosion inhibitors'. Corrosion-X actually kills existing rust and corrosion (keeping it from spreading) and provides long-term protection against rust and corrosion on any metal surface. Learn More | Brochure | Product Data Sheet | SDS | SDS (aerosol version) CorrosionX is the only product available to the public that meets the US Navy's tough new corrosion prevention and control performance requirement MIL-PRF-81309H. Corrosion Protection and Rust Preventive Coating Due to Polar Bonding, CorrosionX causes common metals and metal alloys such as iron, steel, stainless steel, aluminum, copper, brass, bronze, etc. to chemically behave more like noble metals such as gold and platinum. In other words, as long as CorrosionX is present on metal, it can't rust or corrode! CorrosionX also has a dielectric characteristic, so it's safe on electronics and completely shuts down electrolysis between dissimilar metals. Use CorrosionX wherever you want corrosion control without paint or wax coatings. A light spray of CorrosionX on power heads, gensets and engines a couple of times a year will keeping them looking like new – even in saltwater and coastal environments. To learn more about Polar Bonding, please visit our technology page. A Breakthrough Lubricant CorrosionX's unique formulation offers a multitude of advantages over conventional spray lubricants. Because it sticks to metal like a magnet, it cannot be easily displaced by pressure, friction or moisture. It lubricates under extreme loads and high temperatures. Not only does CorrosionX lubricate better, it lasts many times longer! This is especially true in outdoor, coastal and marine environments where direct exposure to rain and sea spray will quickly displace ordinary lubricants. Use CorrosionX on sheaves, hinges, locks, cable/wire rope, windlasses or any metal part needing lubrication. It is ideal for fishing reels and firearms. Unbeatable Penetrant CorrosionX also penetrates faster and further than anything you've ever used. Corroded or rusted nuts, bolts or fittings can usually be disassembled within a few minutes. Even items you believe to be hopelessly seized can usually be saved and returned to service. Watch this time lapse video closely! Due to it's unique Polar Bonding characteristic, CorrosionX is such an incredible penetrant that it will defy gravity and climb straight up this 3" bolt!! Safe On Electronics Water and electronics don't mix. Until now, there haven't been many options for protecting or restoring electronics from moisture intrusion. CorrosionX's unique Polar Bonding Fluid Thin Film Coating (FTFC) technology displaces moisture and seals it out with a self-healing high dielectric coating. Even though the CorrosionX has a dielectric property in excess of 39,000 volts, because it forms an ultra-thin film it does not interfere with electronics or heat dissipation. A must for all marine battery terminals, and a mission critical product for drones and all Remote Control hobbyists. Minimal Environmental Impact Product The volatile organic content (usually abbreviated as VOC or VOCs) of CorrosionX is now ZERO. Compare that to most products in the spray lubricant category, which can be 50% or more VOC (for example, according to their current Safety Data Sheet, WD-40 is 49.5% solvent). That means CorrosionX is many times more gentle on you, your equipment and the environment.

Any comments from anyone on using Corrosion-X ?

I personally wouldnt rely on it alone - Id put a little marine grease on the flex tubes and take yours/Jay's advice (thanks) on the anti-seize compund tip and apply just some Corrosion-X to where the coupler grips.

KR,
Berry

I'd never put anything on the flex where it goes into the couple that is considerated a lubricant.

**planezero** · 07-29-2015, 03:44 PM

That makes sense

where was my mind ..
The anti-seize part didnt translate very well for me.. I assume it to help corroded nuts/bolts become unstuck..
So how does "anti seize compound" work helping to let the coupler grip the cable?
Id think youd need something that works like Loctite ..

**tlandauer** · 07-29-2015, 05:15 PM

No, no, lol......
The anti seize compound is applied BETWEEN the prongs and the collet nut underside, also on the thread SPARINGLY . To help to reduce metal to metal galling. You will be AMAZED HOW MUCH FURTHER YOU CAN TIGHTEN THE COLLET. IT will prevent you from breaking the collet literally. You feel the difference when you apply torque to tighten the collet. Do not put on you cable or inside the prongs, lol.......

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

best flex shaft lube?

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment