best flex shaft lube?

[fidelity101]

These TFL drives on my KBB 45" Mystic hull. I've tightened everything in the back as much as possible and added locktite to the metal parts when possible. The inside of the hull offers no method of inserting grease other than removing the shaft, cleaning it off and re-greasing it. It seems to be the general consensus that removal and re greasing is the best method at the end of a day at the lake but I'm trying to find an alternative method for regreasing the shaft during the day if possible.

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[tlandauer]

Mine are the smaller version that I use on my H&M Intruder S which is only 29" or so. None the less, I did everything you did, still get water....
I seldom have this issue, I need to try a couple of things when I have some time in the end of April.

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[fidelity101]

Do you TFL drives have two plastic cups that surround the ball which goes inside the hull? That seems like a pretty solid design as long as the plastic inserts don't fracture. Do you use teflon tube with your setup? If so, I had a problem before in which the teflon tube was just small enough that it rotated inside the tube. The water was actually coming in between the teflon tube and the copper tube...I fixed it buy wrapping the teflon tube with a little teflon tape to increase the diameter and prevent it from spinning. I also use the STS-250's in my larger hulls, which allows me to easily press grease into the shaft after each run...something I really wish I could do with this Mystic but it has 1/4" tube and I can't find a fitting that will allow me to force grease into the shaft.

Also, the 1/4" tubes appear to have a little bit of an S curve to them...which I'm guessing helps keep the water out as well.

[Luck as a Constant]

I've used vaseline before.
forget why i resorted to it....

[SweetAccord]

These TFL drives on my KBB 45" Mystic hull. I've tightened everything in the back as much as possible and added locktite to the metal parts when possible. The inside of the hull offers no method of inserting grease other than removing the shaft, cleaning it off and re-greasing it. It seems to be the general consensus that removal and re greasing is the best method at the end of a day at the lake but I'm trying to find an alternative method for regreasing the shaft during the day if possible.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]128593[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]128594[/ATTACH]

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-Tube-Seal-250 is a good idea, or you can make your own. Take a small copper tube, cut it at an angle, take your shaft out, drill a hole, and solder it flush with the drive tube. You can cap it off with a small plug. When you need to lube, you can easily put oil in it.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Pennzoil synthetic Trailer wheel bearing grease...wally world....marine section. After grease just a few drops of any oil down it....dont's forget the stub shaft as well.....makes her slick and holds up. For teflon liners I like the chainsaw bar lube. I guess I am a bit anal...I pull my wires and cables out after every couple runs and check for any issues....I do not want to lose a prop.

[ray schrauwen]

Next time I'm down south I'll check out a Walmart. Up here we are lucky if there is an automotive section or hardware for that matter.... Marine section up here is a wet dream.

Pennzoil synthetic Trailer wheel bearing grease...wally world....marine section. After grease just a few drops of any oil down it....dont's forget the stub shaft as well.....makes her slick and holds up. For teflon liners I like the chainsaw bar lube. I guess I am a bit anal...I pull my wires and cables out after every couple runs and check for any issues....I do not want to lose a prop.

[kfxguy]

Which TFL stinger are you referring? The mono one like the one on the Pursuit? or the cat stingers.
On the mono stinger I sealed the gap between the barrel and the back plate.
On the cat stinger I haven't found a way to keep water out, I am very very surprised that water keep coming in, because there is no gap and the brass tube goes into the plate and the barrel at least 1/4" with the liner going in even further. Then the barrel is screwed onto the plate?? Any idea I would like to learn.
For now I pull my cables out of my twin to lube in the hopes to block some water intrusion, but honestly, it will come in as soon as the boat is moving, and I have no space for a tube between the collet and the stuffing tube since I used a MBP clutch-type collet.

Hold up. Wait a minute. You mean to tell me that the hatch tape doesn't keep the water out? Come on man! Lol...I had to do it for all the guys that say they never get a drop of water in their boats. Lol.

[tlandauer]

Cheers! My Friend!!
haha...
You got me this time...
but wait, if only I could tape the TFL stingers..
BTW, watching all you builds!

[tlandauer]

Pennzoil synthetic Trailer wheel bearing grease...wally world....marine section. After grease just a few drops of any oil down it....dont's forget the stub shaft as well.....makes her slick and holds up. For teflon liners I like the chainsaw bar lube. I guess I am a bit anal...I pull my wires and cables out after every couple runs and check for any issues....I do not want to lose a prop.

Great suggestions! What makes the chain saw bar oil different and more suitable to the liners? If I may ask....

[Jeff Wohlt]

It is very slick but the best is it stays on under heat and rpm...very sticky/ stringy (LOL.. word).. Used to run it on cables as well when in a liner. For cable or wire with no liner then I feel grease is a bit better when it is metal to metal. A chainsaw keeps lube going to the chain...our does not. Certainly is some slick sticky stuff. Even used the cheapo motor honey crap at dollar general...about the same...I would never put it in a real motor...lol. LUCAS OIL additive is not much different...probably chain saw lube anyway...LOL Sure feels and looks like it!

I just find it works great for wires but mainly in a teflon tube....another entire story on that...we won't go there.

[fidelity101]

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-Tube-Seal-250 is a good idea, or you can make your own. Take a small copper tube, cut it at an angle, take your shaft out, drill a hole, and solder it flush with the drive tube. You can cap it off with a small plug. When you need to lube, you can easily put oil in it.

The tube is already installed...it's not coming out easily. Does anyone know where I can find that Graupner style oil clamp? I found a NO T BAR SHAFT OILER video on youtube which looks like a great idea, but I can't find anyone who sells it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2sXAQBt0ng

[tlandauer]

It is very slick but the best is it stays on under heat and rpm...very sticky/ stringy (LOL.. word).. Used to run it on cables as well when in a liner. For cable or wire with no liner then I feel grease is a bit better when it is metal to metal. A chainsaw keeps lube going to the chain...our does not. Certainly is some slick sticky stuff. Even used the cheapo motor honey crap at dollar general...about the same...I would never put it in a real motor...lol. LUCAS OIL additive is not much different...probably chain saw lube anyway...LOL Sure feels and looks like it!

I just find it works great for wires but mainly in a teflon tube....another entire story on that...we won't go there.

Thanks for the info!

[SweetAccord]

The tube is already installed...it's not coming out easily. Does anyone know where I can find that Graupner style oil clamp? I found a NO T BAR SHAFT OILER video on youtube which looks like a great idea, but I can't find anyone who sells it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2sXAQBt0ng

Greetings,

You don't take your existing tube out! You take your drive shaft out, drill a hole in the drive shaft tube 2 inches from where the drive exists out to the motor, get some copper tube, solder or glue (epoxy) it to the outside of the drive tube. This way you make an access port where you can oil your drive line without removing the drive shaft.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=grp-2997

The one above you buy, but you can make that without a clamp style.

Hope that helps.

[fidelity101]

I got it now, thanks. :) I thought it would be easier to purchase a system that clamps on over the tube but your idea sounds good as well. I could use JB weld...what size hole and tube do you normally go with for something like this?