1800 kv, 48mm prop, 60 a esc equals....thermal shut down

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  • tlandauer
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Apr 2011
    • 5666

    #16
    Originally posted by ninjanerek
    Thanks for all of the tips guys. The motor mount had a little wiggle to it, that had to have been the issue. The flex shaft moves freely inside the stuffing tube, so i dont think that is the issue. And i always leave a gap between prop and drive cog. Lube after every run. The current plan of action is to flip the stock motor mount, ul-1 flex, and im going to install the castle electronics from my spartan inside. Only because i have them lying around though. Unless anyone has some suggestions on how to make this thing nasty ��
    While we are on the topic of this particular motor mount, I think it was a clever idea as far as design is concerned, but the thin aluminum piece leaves much to be desired. As you said, there is little flex, and that is putting it politely.
    Now I have an UL-1 with the same motor mount, while I was dialing in the boat there were numerous flips and rolls , everytime that happened I had major realignment issues. This alignment issue is present even without any flips, I got tired of it and made a motor mount myself, now it is rock solid. Check it out:DSCN5804_6139.jpg DSCN5809_6144.jpg DSCN5825_6160.jpg DSCN5834_6169.jpg
    Too many boats, not enough time...

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    • ninjanerek
      Member
      • Jul 2014
      • 45

      #17
      Nice work. Im not far enough along to machine my own stuff. I flipped the stock mount and tightened it down, seems like it should hold.

      Comment

      • ninjanerek
        Member
        • Jul 2014
        • 45

        #18
        The screws holding the original mount were actually loose...tightening them down after each run might be necessary

        Comment

        • tlandauer
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Apr 2011
          • 5666

          #19
          Originally posted by ninjanerek
          The screws holding the original mount were actually loose...tightening them down after each run might be necessary
          You need to use a bit of low strength thread lock ( blue) so the vibration will not shake the screws loose. Speaking of vibrations, there are culprits: they can be that your motor ( rotor) was not balanced from the factory, or you have a collet that is seriously defective. The collet is one item I will def up grade to a Octura one found here at OSE: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ct-ocfhe5mm15S, or, the long version:http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ct-ocfhe5mm15d
          I personally use split washers to prevent the screws from walking loose. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE041&P=SM
          And, if the holes are a bit big on the motor mount, I use flat washers first, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE048&P=SM then split washers between the flat washers and the heat of the screws.
          You should not have to tighten them after every run. periodic check is a good idea though.
          Too many boats, not enough time...

          Comment

          • iop65
            Senior Member
            • Mar 2013
            • 367

            #20
            this is mine:
            lucas oil 1.JPGlucas oil 2.JPGlucas oil 3.JPG

            stock motor,tub removed ,carbon motormount ,better coupler,shortend flex,changed wateroutlet
            5s ( 1x3 + 1x2 in series)
            43 cnc prop 1.4p,motor:warm but not hot
            90A seaking with disconected bec and extra caps

            speed : easily 75 km/h and if set loose breaks 80km/h

            Comment

            • ninjanerek
              Member
              • Jul 2014
              • 45

              #21
              Why aren't you cooling motor and esc independently?

              Comment

              • iop65
                Senior Member
                • Mar 2013
                • 367

                #22
                because there is no need for that,motor is warm not hot ,esc is barely warm
                i changed the coolingblock from the seaking like the aquacraft esc is being cooled

                1mm CU-plate in place of the original coolingblok that i removed
                2 x 4mm tube solderd to it
                some heatshrink

                done

                works great ,esc can stay in the same place
                downside :when removing flex i have to tilt the esc to reach the coupler (esc is attached with velcro and rubber band)

                click for bigger picture:
                lucas oil 1 (1).JPG
                Last edited by iop65; 08-19-2014, 11:50 AM.

                Comment

                • ninjanerek
                  Member
                  • Jul 2014
                  • 45

                  #23
                  But there is no disadvantage to running dual cooling, right? If i could find a dual pickup rudder that would correspond with the stock hardware, i would definitely cool seperately.
                  I ran my stock lucas oil motor on 6s 120a esc, and 42 mm cnc prop, it was pretty bucky. I think i actually got better performance on 4s with the 48mm cnc.

                  Comment

                  • Brushless55
                    Creator
                    • Oct 2008
                    • 9488

                    #24
                    Originally posted by tlandauer
                    While we are on the topic of this particular motor mount, I think it was a clever idea as far as design is concerned, but the thin aluminum piece leaves much to be desired. As you said, there is little flex, and that is putting it politely.
                    Now I have an UL-1 with the same motor mount, while I was dialing in the boat there were numerous flips and rolls , everytime that happened I had major realignment issues. This alignment issue is present even without any flips, I got tired of it and made a motor mount myself, now it is rock solid. Check it out:[ATTACH=CONFIG]119655[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]119658[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]119659[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]119660[/ATTACH]
                    Nice job on that mount..
                    looks great
                    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

                    Comment

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