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Im running stock electronics in my lucas oil (as mentioned in the title), and recently purchased a 48mm cnc prop from offshore. Sure its nasty, but i know its not a "safe" set up. What im wondering is, what kind of motor and esc combo would be recommended? I am running 2 4s packs in parallel btw. Id like to keep the prop size the same, and continue to run 4s. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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It shouldn't shut down...theres nothing wrong with that set-up.
How low/high is your strut set....any binding in the driveline??Grand River Marine Modellers
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The boat quit out on the water. I pulled the hatch and some smoke rolled out, motor couldnt be touched for more than 4 seconds, esc was very warm, batteries were a little warm. The stuffing tube was hot as well. I have never adjusted the strut on the boat, left it where was out of the box. Pulled out the motor, the plugs seemed to have become unsoldered, same with esc plugs. The motor has that distinct "cooked" smell to it.Comment
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Running -2 4S 5000Mah packs?
Nortavlag Bulc Comment
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2 2600 4s packs, 35c ratingComment
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you sure will need a bigger motor and esc for that prop
and i wouldn't be surprised that a 48 mm pushing that boat will cause handling problemsComment
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In any case, the stuffing tube should not be warm let alone hot. As Doby asked, is there binding in the drive train?
If you smell burnt smell coming out of the motor's end bell, the motor is done for... ESC might be ok, but can be either way.
I had put a brand new 1800kv motor in my Miss Geico, in 45 seconds the motor burned, same smell, ESC was ok, I was using a M445 prop. I had the boat run on the Probaot 1800kv motor and was great the day before, I just wanted to see if there is any noticeable difference between the two motors, and I DID!!!
The only possibility other than a bad quality motor is that I soldered 5.5mm bullets on the motor wires and could have over heated the flimsy insulation on the wires, any motions will chafe the skin off the wires and causing a short.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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I think the motor fried. It got hot enough that the banana plugs became unsoldered from the wires coming off of both the motor and esc. So it made sense that stuffing tube was hot. I figured that the heat from the motor transferred to the tube. Didnt seem to be any bindingComment
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That must be really hot, the heat is transferred from the motor shaft to the collet and then thru the cable to the stuffing tube, I would check the condition of your cable liner.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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Check to make sure the motor mount is secure and has no flex. Under load, a poorly designed or loose motor mount will allow the motor to tip forwards and downward which puts stress on the flex cable. This causes drag and added heat within the driveline. I had this happen on a boat and it was famous for breaking flex shafts until I figured out the problem and fixed it.
Your driveline should not heat up much over ambient temps. High temps on the stuffing tube should serve as a warning that something is wrong.
Also, make sure you leave enough gap between your drive dog and strut. A flex shaft will shorten under load. If it's too close already, the drive dog will make contact with the strut face and cause drag.Comment
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a cat loves rpm's , to make this small boat go faster is to not to use 48 mm props and swinging them at an unloaded 26000rpm
this guy wants more speed and isn't restricted by any motor size or lipo rule
the boat will handle much better swinging a smaller prop at an higher rpm ,and use smaller prop
my 2 cents (coming from experience with my lucas oil)
and yes ,maybe he's got something else wrong too but now he has smoked his motor i would change it to a higher kv and lager sizeComment
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No need to make unnecessary changes (bigger ESC)
Could be a bad motor (it happens).
I only run 4 cats, 3 hydros and 6 monos...so what do I know.Grand River Marine Modellers
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Thanks for all of the tips guys. The motor mount had a little wiggle to it, that had to have been the issue. The flex shaft moves freely inside the stuffing tube, so i dont think that is the issue. And i always leave a gap between prop and drive cog. Lube after every run. The current plan of action is to flip the stock motor mount, ul-1 flex, and im going to install the castle electronics from my spartan inside. Only because i have them lying around though. Unless anyone has some suggestions on how to make this thing nasty 😀Comment
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