Tweet
here is some photos i have taken..... not the greatest of pics but hopefully they tell a story of any issues. As mentioned before temps were warm to the touch, not hot after a few wot passes. I dont have any data logging on that particular esc (none that i know of anyway)
-
-
Right from the start I see a problem. The middle pic showing the side view of the strut has the shaft tube angled right as it leaves the strut, this needs to be fixed ASAP. You need to go a couple inches away from the strut before you bend the tube or the solid stub shaft section of your prop shaft will bind badly. I'm surprised the area where the flex joins the stub shaft hasn't already failed due to excessive heat/friction from the way it is.
- IMPBA Hall of Fame -
- IMPBA Hydro Technical Director -Comment
-
Those water pickups can go up quite a bit. Lots of unnecessary drag there, good for a few mph and a better handling boat.Comment
-
THe motor mount needs serious support. The first flip will have that motor mount torn off the bottom of the hull. Even a motor that size with rear support (which you do not have) from factory will tear out because of the weight and lower quality epoxy used from factory.
Nortavlag Bulc Comment
-
Yes I hear and see what you're saying Don, I was blind not to see that! But at some point in time won't I always get some sort of bad alignment when adjusting strut angle?Comment
-
How far below the sponson should those water pickups be?Comment
-
What the others above said. In addition:
-With the boat flat on the table set the strut flat and 1/8" above the tabletop as a start.
-CG @ 9.5" ahead of the sponson transoms to start, not the rear of the boat.
-You shouldn't need the skeg on the strut - extra drag.
-True up the ride pads with 220 grit on a sanding block, then smooth with 400 grit.
-Rudder water pickups are far better than the draggy pickups on the boat now, if you keep them raise them up so the top of the bevel cut is even with the sponson bottoms.
.ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for
Comment
-
In regards to battery placement, doesn't the centre of the batteries get placed at the point of balance of the hull, which is called cog? And in this case point of balance is around 33% which puts the front of the battery pretty much in line with the front lip of the hatch opening. Please correct me if I'm wrong as I'm fairly new to fe boats, just want to clear a few things up so I don't doubt and double guess my adjustments. All the expert help is much appreciated.Comment
-
Battery placement means nothing, it is the CG which matters. Put the packs where they need to be to get the correct CG. Start with the CG at 9.5" ahead of the sponson transoms.
.ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for
Comment
-
You want to setup up the COG with the batteries in the boat. When my twin drive 32" cat was stock setup for around 40mph - 3s lipos, the lipos were fully visible in the hatch, basically flush up to the motors. This pic is of my boat setup for 75mph with 4s lipos. Less than 1/2 of the lipos showing, spaced from the motors with cut foam noodle. And it rides on rails.
20140610_232331.jpgComment
-
Comment
-
I have removed the old stuffing tube and bent another. I'm lucky not to have lost the prop in the lake as the flex cable was holding on by a couple of threads, hence speed issues due to bind… ( have another on order). The guy who owns a fe store here in oz, sold and advised me the skeg provided extra stability on turns and never warned me about those water pick ups… little disappointed in that! (Would you recommend getting rid of the skeg?)Anyway will try a couple of different setups as posted and advised by the fantastic folk here on ose, and see what works best for the cat and eventually get rid of those water pickups..… what's better rudder or flush mount? Will keep you posted on how things go. Again thanks to all who have contributed in giving their advice and opinions!!, keep it coming through
Comment
Comment