Why did this happen? MG29 + SK180 blow up w/ pic!

[MrEvoMan]

From your wiring to the batteries. I do not see any shrink wrap around the bullets. If you went underwater, chances are you may have gotten some water inside the hull. The water inside the hull may have arced your battery wires on the esc. The tupperware style secondary hatch does not hold out water, especially under pressure. Even water on the backside of a cap bank will cause it to flare up like a BBQ.

The hull is water tight. Being the MG29 and Proboat, it has the inner hatch cover, plus the outer, plus I taped it. When it submerged, it popped right back up like a buoy, and when I opened it, was dry as a bone, although smokey.

[lenny]

The water jacket nipple is on the side and not on top where it should be,
It should be so the water has to over flow the jacket to come out the top nipple and exit out the boat.

All the wire are way to long and the setup needs modding for sure,
But if it works for you than leave it the way it is.

[785boats]

How does the motor feel when you spin it over by hand? Does it feel Squishy (for want of a better word) ? What I mean is, does it feel like it's dragging & you can't feel the magnetic poles as sharply as they used to be.
I ask because I've had two of those ESC's look similar to yours & both times the motors were like I described above. And they no longer worked. I always felt that it was the motors that took out the ESC's. I'm not sure though.
It's just a thought.
Paul.

[dirtnsnowrider]

The hull is water tight. Being the MG29 and Proboat, it has the inner hatch cover, plus the outer, plus I taped it. When it submerged, it popped right back up like a buoy, and when I opened it, was dry as a bone, although smokey.

If you do not have those battery leads properly insulated then arcing can happen if they were to get close enough. As I stated from your pictures there is no shrink wrapping around those positive and negative bullet connectors. It could even be possible that they came in close enough proximity to each other that they caused the arcing. It may even be possible that those leads got hot enough for some solder to roll off and come in contact with whatever it touches before it breaks contact again as it cools.

Just wondering why those battery leads from the esc look so bad (solder connection) and why they are not insulated.

[lenny]

I am thinking the the amps went sky high when it went under the wave and was submerged,
From the sudden drag that was put on the setup.

[blowNover]

I am thinking the the amps went sky high when it went under the wave and was submerged,
From the sudden drag that was put on the setup.

That's what I said but he says he's sure he let off the throttle before it submerged?

[MrEvoMan]

You're looking at post-melt down. Everything was insulated and well soldered prior to the blow up. There are NO wires that are still soldered to the ESC - they all desoldered in the blow up.

The long male ends that you see of bullets still somewhat gold - went into the battery - they weren't just sitting in the open.

[MrEvoMan]

That's what I said but he says he's sure he let off the throttle before it submerged?

I did. I'm pretty sure I let off as soon as I saw it hit the water wrong. It went pretty deep underwater because it happened at full speed. Took a noticeable second for it to pop back up - enough time for my brain to go "Oh crap, is it going to come back up?"

[MrEvoMan]

The water jacket nipple is on the side and not on top where it should be,
It should be so the water has to over flow the jacket to come out the top nipple and exit out the boat.

All the wire are way to long and the setup needs modding for sure,
But if it works for you than leave it the way it is.

I understand what you mean about the water jacket now. I'll make that change in the future. But I don't think that's what caused this ESC to pop.

[MrEvoMan]

How does the motor feel when you spin it over by hand? Does it feel Squishy (for want of a better word) ? What I mean is, does it feel like it's dragging & you can't feel the magnetic poles as sharply as they used to be.
I ask because I've had two of those ESC's look similar to yours & both times the motors were like I described above. And they no longer worked. I always felt that it was the motors that took out the ESC's. I'm not sure though.
It's just a thought.
Paul.

Just tried it, the motor feels like it did prior to running today.

Also took a little closer look at the ESC - there's literally nothing left of the PCB under the heatsink. It's all charred nothing - you can't tell anything is anything. And the plastic case is completely gone.

[Cooper]

Well it definitely was a heat related issue. Possibly heat from the underwater strain on motor, but if I had to guess (as that is what this is) I would say the failure was inside the esc case near the negative terminal. Maybe just some normal running and it only takes a small bead of loose solder to melt loose or to dislodge and poof!! And that caused an arc in turn caused heat then complete failure, while the negative lead wire still attached a major arc could have found a place to span sorting the negative, causing heat, melting solder. And it only takes a very small amount of water to contact the right places and poof!! Like said above it may have just been a time bomb and I also think those t180's are great for the price but consider them throways, no warranty, no fixing. Sometimes an esc can still work but the bec cooks first. Obliviously this one is toast. Glad to hear the motor seems to function still. And again as said above sometimes a motor that seems ok may be the problem.

[Cooper]

Were the motor wires coming off the esc always bent like that in the first pic? And the yellow motor wire insulation is split. Or dis they de solder also? I know you said all wires but didn't know if you ment motor too or just positive and negative. Because that would indicate motor was under too much load (from prop or from shorting) and caused the heat up. ? Just a guess

[tlandauer]

If the hull is relatively undamaged and you plan to rebuild, may i suggest that you turn the ESC around so the caps are facing the transom:1104.jpg
The biggest drawback on the design of the Seaking180ESC is the orientation of the wires and that of the water fittings. It prevents in-line mounting and sometimes it is difficult to strike a compromise between the length of the motor wires and the power wires.
I believe Properchopper and NorCalZ71 all have their own solutions and if you will read their thread:http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...m-Water-blocks
Very sorry what happened: it is always annoying when something goes wrong and good luck on the rebuild!

[iop65]

i do not understand that this hull would be running great with a 48 mm cnc prop??
that is way to big for a 29" hull
and it is hard to believe that the 3674 can was pulling this without problems ,1900KV 4s?

the only way you can keep a hull this small with that motor and prop running reliable,save and cool is when you where using only a part of the prop in the water!

where is the point in that?

a 48 mm on a 29"hull

[Ozzypatrol]

Hijack, is the Seaking the same as the Turnigy 180A? Mate hooked up both 3s packs up in series (6s), esc did its usual 2 beep then went for the 3rd (when it also pulses the motor) and it went pop, sparked up, red/orange thick cloud of smoke then a lipo went bang. Unlucky but lucky it didn't happen mid run. Could have caused a lot more damage if it was boxed up and running. Does this sound like an ESC failure?