I understand what you mean now, with the angle of the motor. But IMO I serious doubt that makes a significant difference. We're talking about 3-4mm of water flow. We're not filling up pipe/PVC ect. I think some are thinking about it way too much. That little amount of water is pushed in there so hard that any air bubbles come out with it.
Diagnosis: motor murder
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That kind of temp is not a result of insufficient water cooling, the OP is an experienced member, as i said before, regardless of the arrangement on the lines, something else was causing the heat. Look at the picture carefully: the hi-temp silicone wire insulation is discolored as if it is showing the wire strands inside, I have soldered many wires before and one of my amazements was how much heat can these insulation materials take, never seen anything like this. The temp is higher than my soldering iron to say the least.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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That kind of temp is not a result of insufficient water cooling, the OP is an experienced member, as i said before, regardless of the arrangement on the lines, something else was causing the heat. Look at the picture carefully: the hi-temp silicone wire insulation is discolored as if it is showing the wire strands inside, I have soldered many wires before and one of my amazements was how much heat can these insulation materials take, never seen anything like this. The temp is higher than my soldering iron to say the least."There's nothing else I really want to do other than get up and build boats." - Mike FioreComment
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I did confuse the insulation on these Leopard motor with the ones on Castle Neu though, they are TOTALLY DIFFERENT, the latter is the same insulation one finds on high grade wire used on batteries where as the Leopard is more like a special Heat Shrink Tube. They will not melt but gets sticky to the touch when heated. I suppose the reason Leopard uses this kind of material is because the wires coming out of the motor are part of the windings on the stator where as Castle NEU use wires that can be shortened.
Just want to be correct on this issue.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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OK after closer look I see the error in the water jacket. It wasnt the best it could of been. Stupid me... I put the motor in one night next night just slapped lines on it- didnt think to check yesterdays work
Im going to make a new boat check list before running so I dont have this issue again.
She got so hot it melted the plastic at the motor where the wires goes in. The discoloration on the shrink wrap is partly the amount of heat but also the fact the bullets arced on the one set. It must of been damned hot. There was solder splashed around...
Going to get another motor and try again... lol42" Osprey, 32" Pursuit, 26" Bling Rocket (rescue), Blizzard Rigger, JAE 21FE rigger, Hobby King rigger (RIP)Comment
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Can you post some pictures of the transom and hardware ?
Also what prop were you using when this happened and do you have any idea of the pond temp that day ?Comment
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That kind of temp is not a result of insufficient water cooling, the OP is an experienced member, as i said before, regardless of the arrangement on the lines, something else was causing the heat. Look at the picture carefully: the hi-temp silicone wire insulation is discolored as if it is showing the wire strands inside, I have soldered many wires before and one of my amazements was how much heat can these insulation materials take, never seen anything like this. The temp is higher than my soldering iron to say the least.
I had a cooling line come off all together during a race and had a motor get to 180*+ and the T180 esc did thermal and nothing desoldered!
and at the same time I had a race when one of my motor wires desoldered with motor temps of only 105*.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8sComment
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