Diagnosis: motor murder

[Basstronics]

32" Pursuit
Leopard 4074 2200kv 2Y
T180 ESC- STOCK no cooling mod
CNC 45mm X 1.4 pitch
Timing 11.25 Degrees
4s2p 5000mah 60C China Hobby line batts
8mm on batts, 5.5mm on motor


ALL but one 5.5 bullets on the motor desoldered. The wires leading down to the motor tinned with the solder rolling down them. Melted the plastic going into motor... Took me over 15 minutes to get boat back to shore due to my poor casting abilities...

Ran about 3 mins. Water was coming out of the outlet.

I used 60/40 clear rosin solder. The solder jobs looked beautiful too- so no cold joints.

????

[kevinpratt823]

How much time on the motor altogether?

[Basstronics]

4-6 minutes.

Gotta say the Pursuit has been a bad luck boat for me. I tried to get it out in the water last year. First time out I lost the flex/prop. Second time out couldnt keep her on the water, flipped over and ripped all the CA glued down stuff out (ESC mount, batt mount) and a little water got it ruining the batts.

[lenny]

What were the temps of the setup before the melt down ?
Also what was the temp of the pond water before the melt down and how hot was it there today ?
I do see the that the water lines on the water jacket are backwards,
Water should come in at the lowest point and out at the highest point on the jacket.

[SloHD]

He's got the water lines right Lenny. Look a little closer.

[lenny]

The front port side of nipple is high at the port side jacket and mount,
And that line is going out to exit port side of hull.

He's got the water lines right Lenny. Look a little closer.

[SloHD]

The front port side of nipple is high at the port side jacket and mount,
And that line is going out to exit port side of hull.

Exactly.... The lower nipple is connected from the esc, and the high nipple is exiting out the port side like you're saying. Not sure what you're trying to say but it looks right to me. The exit nipple is not as high as it possibly could be, but he's got it right.

[tlandauer]

Regardless which way the tubes are routed, and it looks to me too that the exit hose is on the collet/shaft end of the motor, hence it is lower than the entry point. We are talking about which nipples on the jacket in relationship to either the bow or stern of the boat---bow being the higher nipple and stern being the lower one. That is how the motor sits in the hull! Not how the jacket is "rotated" on the motor can! I personally don't believe that has anything to do with the death of the motor. Something else is the culprit.
I have almost the exact set up on my Pursuit, with a 4082 sized Leopard, temp was never an issue. In order for the plugs to desolder like that, one can imagine how high the temp was on the plugs. If the tin can roll down the wires all the way into the motor, it was like the tip of the solder iron was kept on those plugs for the entire run.

[Basstronics]

The water lines were correct. I also did see water exiting the hull. Due to speed it was not a big stream but it was blowing apart. When boat stopped it died and it took me a bit to get back to shore so no temps. I did put my thumb on the motor and it was to hot to hold- this is after at least 10 minutes trying to retrieve. There was a "white area" on the can where the water level was. All water boiled out of the system.

I know the motor is toast. Its already in the garbage. The ESC had that wimpy additional ESC bank. I threw that out now and the middle 1000 cap is now bulged.

Im going to make a new water block for the T180. Im also going to run an external coolant line just for the motor. So two pickup-s, two exits.

In the end I think the water flow might of been restricted or became plugged. First few laps I seen the water exit. Now the question is what else is fried? lol

[iop65]

Lenny is right ,this was never cooling properly , this was an accident waiting to happen

buy 4-7 mm cooling tube,could be wrong this seems to me like 3 mm inner diameter
make them as short as possible!
rotate the motor cooling jacket out is on top , at the back ( again :lenny is correct)
do not get all you wires bundeld up

prop down on a hot day , when water is warm
saves money

[SirBudman32]

Lenny is right, you have the lines on the motor backwards. Should go in the bottom of cooler and out the top. I'd bet you had a air bubble stuck in the cooling jacket on the motor.
After seeing the problems last year with it and now this, Looks like one for the swap shop. Just saying. As for the 180 cooling mod, if you stop by this week I'll show you what I did to both of mine.

[lenny]

That is a very good point to.

I did not play out in my head,
How a air bubble or air lock in the jacket would add to this melt down.

I was just looking at the basics of a normal setup for FE boats.

[Rumdog]

Even if the lines were/are backward, it wouldn't lead to this failure on its own. I mean, the jacket is definitely still filling with water and is doing so continuously as water exits. Think about it.. youre forcing water in at whatever rate of speed the boat is traveling. do you think its merely puddling into the jacket and trickling out the lowest hole? No.. it's filling that sucker up, and fast!

[SirBudman32]

Think about it, air will rise to the top. So if the water is coming in the top and there is a air bubble stuck in it the water will flow out but the jacket WILL NOT fill up as it should. with the exit point at the highest point of the jacket the air can get out but with the exit at the lowest point the air will rise to the top and be trapped there and the jacket can not fill and do its job to the best of it abilities. being that cooling the motor where the wire come into the motor is most important if there is a air bubble there and it cant cool you get what you have here.

[iop65]

the jacket is not filling with water all the way
as i said before he has to rotate it so the outlet is on top!
otherwise air will stay in
he created the perfect conditions for a hotspot in his motor ,even has he said water was flowing