lehner soldering help (tyler)

[Alexgar]

Got this motor as parts and it seems to be a wind issue and wanted a little advice on the right a 1940/7 working properly. On the left a 1950/7 thats looks to have had the 3.5 bullets pulled of of it and had wires soldered on to it. My question is are all the electrical connections made when the solder touches the bullet or internally? Any advice would be appreciated.

[Alexgar]

last pic

[Alexgar]

beeter pics from mt tablet my camera was having problems focusing

[Doug Smock]

http://www.lehner-motoren.com/assets/instructions_for_use_s10_22_v3.pdf

[Alexgar]

doug ,tyler sent me that a couple weeks ago when i was thinking of buying a 2250 my question was when the bullets were disconnected fron the actual motor were the winding ruined or are the connections made externally by the solder trace connections

[Alexgar]

specifically the winding to bullet/wire connections

[Doug Smock]

Sorry I didn't notice that you had posted additional pictures. That motor looks like it is done, what a shame.
At least one of the two traces near P2 can't be common to P2 or it would be a short when wired "D".

[RaceMechaniX]

The motor on the left is looks pretty well toasted. All six of the motor leads should still be soldered to the PCB board, so although the bullets are gone you may be able to solder leads to the existing leads. It's no terribly feasible, but may work for very low amperage. It's probably better off as spare parts.

TG

[Alexgar]

wires added

[RaceMechaniX]

Those solder joints look a little cold. Hopefully they will last......

TG

[ManuelW]

Sorry for the harsh words but that soldering job looks absolutely awful.

And beside the thing that Tyler is a very experienced SAW driver and we probably can all learn things from him in that point he is a little wrong. Those are the older style LMT motors before "HiAmp" and they had a PCB included in the rear endbell and those 3.5mm bullet connectors. Basically the system was limited to about 80A max constant current, otherwise you could run into troubles de-soldering the bullets.

One solution is to make a "semi-HiAmp" out of it. First all the solder has to be removed from the PCB, takes some time and needs to be done careful and quick in several steps, not to overheat something. Then you should see 6 wiring ends coming out of the PCB (sometimes they do come out and are folded over a little, sometimes they are even with the surface). Then take some 6 guage wire and solder a cable PROPERLY to every of those wiring ends (quick and clean soldering jobs, would recommend 100W iron). Maybe 2 inches behind always sum up two cables into one 5.5mm or 6mm bullet connector --> done

Attached a picture of how I did it several years ago on a pair of LMT 1940/7's, got them used and had absolutely no money to buy new HiAmp ones. After that soldering job I used them several years successfully in my HPR06 even for rough SAW purpose. Fastest run was 97.7mph on a single 6S pack so I think they were pretty "capable" at levels where the 3.5mm bullets would have failed without doubt. So when done right its not a repair work, its an excellent upgrade

DSCF0749.jpg

regards,
Manuel

PS: When I see the pics of your soldering job, might consider to have that done by someone with proper equipment and more experience in soldering....

[Alexgar]

Thanks Manuel I have soldering experience but its a little hard to connect the windings and a heavy gauge wire I borrowed a 200 watt solder gun from a friend and resoldered it about 2 days ago . The problem was making it.hot enough to flow but.not overheat the motor

[Alexgar]

My other choice was sending it in for repair but ill give it a try first