lehner soldering help (tyler)

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  • Alexgar
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Aug 2009
    • 3534

    #1

    lehner soldering help (tyler)

    Got this motor as parts and it seems to be a wind issue and wanted a little advice on the right a 1940/7 working properly. On the left a 1950/7 thats looks to have had the 3.5 bullets pulled of of it and had wires soldered on to it. My question is are all the electrical connections made when the solder touches the bullet or internally? Any advice would be appreciated.
    Attached Files
  • Alexgar
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Aug 2009
    • 3534

    #2
    last pic
    Attached Files

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    • Alexgar
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Aug 2009
      • 3534

      #3
      beeter pics from mt tablet my camera was having problems focusing
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      • Doug Smock
        Moderator
        • Apr 2007
        • 5272

        #4
        MODEL BOAT RACER
        IMPBA President
        District 13 Director 2011- present
        IMPBA National Records Director 2009-2019
        IMPBA 19887L CD
        NAMBA 1169

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        • Alexgar
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Aug 2009
          • 3534

          #5
          doug ,tyler sent me that a couple weeks ago when i was thinking of buying a 2250 my question was when the bullets were disconnected fron the actual motor were the winding ruined or are the connections made externally by the solder trace connections

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          • Alexgar
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Aug 2009
            • 3534

            #6
            specifically the winding to bullet/wire connections

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            • Doug Smock
              Moderator
              • Apr 2007
              • 5272

              #7
              Sorry I didn't notice that you had posted additional pictures. That motor looks like it is done, what a shame.
              At least one of the two traces near P2 can't be common to P2 or it would be a short when wired "D".
              MODEL BOAT RACER
              IMPBA President
              District 13 Director 2011- present
              IMPBA National Records Director 2009-2019
              IMPBA 19887L CD
              NAMBA 1169

              Comment

              • RaceMechaniX
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Sep 2007
                • 2821

                #8
                The motor on the left is looks pretty well toasted. All six of the motor leads should still be soldered to the PCB board, so although the bullets are gone you may be able to solder leads to the existing leads. It's no terribly feasible, but may work for very low amperage. It's probably better off as spare parts.

                TG
                Last edited by RaceMechaniX; 05-04-2013, 09:33 PM.
                Tyler Garrard
                NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

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                • Alexgar
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Aug 2009
                  • 3534

                  #9
                  wires added
                  Attached Files

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                  • RaceMechaniX
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Sep 2007
                    • 2821

                    #10
                    Those solder joints look a little cold. Hopefully they will last......

                    TG
                    Tyler Garrard
                    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

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                    • ManuelW
                      Senior Member
                      • Oct 2010
                      • 756

                      #11
                      Sorry for the harsh words but that soldering job looks absolutely awful.

                      And beside the thing that Tyler is a very experienced SAW driver and we probably can all learn things from him in that point he is a little wrong. Those are the older style LMT motors before "HiAmp" and they had a PCB included in the rear endbell and those 3.5mm bullet connectors. Basically the system was limited to about 80A max constant current, otherwise you could run into troubles de-soldering the bullets.

                      One solution is to make a "semi-HiAmp" out of it. First all the solder has to be removed from the PCB, takes some time and needs to be done careful and quick in several steps, not to overheat something. Then you should see 6 wiring ends coming out of the PCB (sometimes they do come out and are folded over a little, sometimes they are even with the surface). Then take some 6 guage wire and solder a cable PROPERLY to every of those wiring ends (quick and clean soldering jobs, would recommend 100W iron). Maybe 2 inches behind always sum up two cables into one 5.5mm or 6mm bullet connector --> done

                      Attached a picture of how I did it several years ago on a pair of LMT 1940/7's, got them used and had absolutely no money to buy new HiAmp ones. After that soldering job I used them several years successfully in my HPR06 even for rough SAW purpose. Fastest run was 97.7mph on a single 6S pack so I think they were pretty "capable" at levels where the 3.5mm bullets would have failed without doubt. So when done right its not a repair work, its an excellent upgrade

                      DSCF0749.jpg

                      regards,
                      Manuel

                      PS: When I see the pics of your soldering job, might consider to have that done by someone with proper equipment and more experience in soldering....

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                      • Alexgar
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Aug 2009
                        • 3534

                        #12
                        Thanks Manuel I have soldering experience but its a little hard to connect the windings and a heavy gauge wire I borrowed a 200 watt solder gun from a friend and resoldered it about 2 days ago . The problem was making it.hot enough to flow but.not overheat the motor
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                        • Alexgar
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Aug 2009
                          • 3534

                          #13
                          My other choice was sending it in for repair but ill give it a try first

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