Anyone ever seen Stainless steel blindnuts?

[roadrashracing]

I was only able to find down to 10-24. Why not just use a fender washer/ nut and eliminate the t-nuts?

[properchopper]

I'm with Jim in preferring stainless blind nuts. The non-stainless ones, once there's any water intrusion on the threads ( and face it, water will eventually get inside) will corrode and corrosion-bind the bolt to the blind nut. Once this occurs, backing out the bolt often spins the blind nut and it becomes a situation (ask me how I know) I don't like using blind nuts for transom hardware; prefer stainless bolts and nyloc nuts. Where blind nuts are called for, the stainless ones at my LHS don't have the points so I use tiny screws to guarantee that they don't rotate. Slightly more labor intensive, but less of a hassle than dealing with a barbed blind nut that's locked on to the bolt and rotates with it.

Couldn't find a stainless one for the picture, but here's what I'm talking about :

DSC04120.JPG

Jim, I can see if my LHS has what you're looking for if you need me to. Often they only have stainless non-barbed in metric but there should be a close metric equivalent to 10-32 ; I've gone that route in the past.

[Rumdog]

Zinc plates won't rust unless the plating is somehow scraped off. That is the reason behind the plating, in fact.

[JimClark]

Maybe proboat doesn't use zinc plating then as the ones I just pulled out were rusty

[drwayne]

Transom plate of 1/4 alu, mount, then drill and tap to suit.
Nuts, what nuts ?

W

I am reworking a mystic 29. The ones on the wooden backing plate at the transom were rusty and the wood was falling apart so I am replacing all this and reinforcing the transom. If I can't find SS then I will have to use the zinc coated ones or I may make a backing plate out of 1/8 alum and glue that in and just thrubolt the strut bracket

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