revolt 30 vs impulse31

[mannytx1]

At this time I don't have any problem with my boat esc 110f temperature, engine temperature 98-107f, texas temperature 80f, run 5 minutes time, speed 58 mph

[Arizonaheat]

The water pick up hole works fine and does an ample job cooling. The hole is beneath the water surface at rest on the water and when you get op an a plane it sits even lower. I do not see how in the world the hole is up to high. Have you measured it from the water line level to see where it sits. How about when the boat is at full speed? If you can not stand the hole placement in the rudder, buy a different one then. You will get the same results. As for the rudder length, why do you need a bigger rudder? If your boat handles like garbage adjust the strut and trim tabs. My revolt never chine walks and turns left just fine even after I removed the left turn fin and dropped the size of the right turn fin. In fact the longer rudder will produce more drag and slow your boat down and you will gain nothing in performance. There are many members who own this boat and you are the only one I know of complaining about the water pick up and rudder length. When you run your boat what are the motor and esc temps. Can we see some video of your boat chine walking and struggling to turn left. It may help in finding a solution.................

I believe that he is confusing "height" and "width" i.e. elongate the width of the hole in the rudder blade...ESL baby!

[mannytx1]

Quote Originally Posted by Billy Barnacle View Post

Dana,
Couple things...
1. I'm at AQ's website and have the Revolt manual on screen. On page 3 they have the motor & ESC specs and info on the subject of LVC.

First the motor specs = Max. Constant Current: 50A -- Max. Surge Current: 80A/5 sec. --- Now the ESC... Output Current: 60A continuous maximum -- 72A surge maximum. As you can see, in a surge situation the motor is capable of drawing more current than the ESC can deliver. The Revolt is not the only AQ boat that has that issue, they all do. The 60A ESC in the Revolt is also used in several other AQ boats, MC, UL-1 and others. The 45-amp ESC in the SV27's are also underated for the motor used them.

The 50-amp ESC that comes stock with the Wildcat EP is also underated for its motor, that was one the reasons I replaced it with a 60A Seaking unit out of the box.

The ESC in the Rio EP is notorious for frying when used with 8.4v batteries, AQ has a tech note on the Rio page but it's 200% pure BS!! as myself and countless other Rio owners have discovered. There are dozens upon dozens of posts on practically every forum on the net (not just this one) on that subject. The Hammer EP suffers the same problem because it uses the same ESC.

What that tells' me is: AQ are cheapskates more interested in profit than making a quality boat. Doesn't matter if it's a $160 entry level boat or a $350 FE.

2. AQ's LiPo ready ESC's have a feature called "stutter bump". On page 3 of the Revolt manual they discuss the subject of "stutter bump" & LVC. Here's what it says...

Notes about using LiPo batteries in your boat: The Revolt uses the AquaCraft 60amp motor controller. This controller has a built in stutter bump system that cycles the power to the motor when the battery voltage reaches 12V. This is designed to warn you of impending low battery voltage and subsequent shut down. It also has a 10.8V battery cut off safety system that shuts the power down to the motor to avoid damaging the batteries.

3. Somewhere on this forum there's great thread about boat ESC's, how to calculate what amp ESC you should use for your application and so on. In that thread various posters make statements such as: boat motors pull far more current than there car / truck counterparts, boat ESC's are often times over-rated (advertised 60A is really a 45~50A), allowing "overhead" and other really useful info. Part of the reason for allowing overhead is because of the false amp ratings. The figures I've seen are in the 20% ~ 30% range, I personally go with 30%.

Using the above Revolt specs with 30% overhead I find that I should have a ESC with a minimum of 65A continuous, which of course is 5-amps greater than the stock unit. And 104-amp surge - a whopping 32-amps more than the stock unit. That is why I suggested the 90-amp Seaking unit to Tom in my first reply.

Based on the above info, I maintain that the ONLY thing wrong with Tom's ESC is that it's cheap factory POS that needs to be replaced with a qualitiy aftermarket unit like the Seaking series.

Tom, should you decide to go with one of the Seaking units there's something I would like to point out. By default the motor timing is set at 15-degrees, AQ ESC's are set at 10-degrees. I ran a Seaking 60A unit in my Wildcat and took the timing down to 11.25-degrees because the next lowest setting is 7.50-degree's. Obviously 11.25 is a lot closer to 10 than 7.50.

Hope this extra info gets you pointed in the right direction.
Regards,
Aha yes.. I feel the love........
Grim

Michael Grimracer Zaborowski
AquaCraft Boat Designer

[Doby]

So what are you on about now?

[Rumdog]

Seems you have complaints about the way that things look to you, but not how they perform, right? Who cares?

[tlandauer]

Are we still on this subject?!, I must be missing a lot... not just the usual "somthing", I just ordered a new AQ ESC and bought a new one here from another member for use on my tunnel build(s), I thought they are well liked by members who have much more experience than I.
I fully intend to enjoy these ESC, not going to worry...

[oscarel]

Funny, the AQ esc and motor from the Revolt are spec motor/esc under NAMBA. They wouldn't allow under-rated combo now would they???

[dirtnsnowrider]

At this time I don't have any problem with my boat esc 110f temperature, engine temperature 98-107f, texas temperature 80f, run 5 minutes time, speed 58 mph

So why are you still going on and on and on about the esc not working for you when it does and you have no problem.................

THIS THREAD SHOULD BE CLOSED

[BHChieftain]

Me and my aq 60A esc powered LSH are off to another race...

Chief

Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk 2

[mannytx1]

Texan Rocket. 6s
100_0323.jpg

Hull and hardware Revolt 30 (improved water cooling and hose ¼ x .170 O.D x I.D)
ESC Dynamite (DYNM3820) Marine 80-amp (brushless water-cooled w/reverse)
Motor Dynamite (DYNM3830) A3630-1800kv, 6-pole, water-cooled marine motor
Connector 5,5mm
Propeller. Octura x442--- X440/3.
Battery 6s +40C
Speed: Fast Electric Adict!
Manny

[Arizonaheat]

Nice Adobe PS, but the pond looks a little small for that boat...

[Rumdog]

lol..nevermind..

[tlandauer]

Texan Rocket. 6s
[ATTACH=CONFIG]100076[/ATTACH]

Hull and hardware Revolt 30 (improved water cooling and hose ¼ x .170 O.D x I.D)
ESC Dynamite (DYNM3820) Marine 80-amp (brushless water-cooled w/reverse)
Motor Dynamite (DYNM3830) A3630-1800kv, 6-pole, water-cooled marine motor
Connector 5,5mm
Propeller. Octura x442--- X440/3.
Battery 6s +40C
Speed: Fast Electric Adict!Manny

Now wait just a minute! Took me two years and a thousand posts to earn that, ah, should have used a larger cooling hose!

[mannytx1]

lol................I forgot, different water intake, water pick up an inch under

Water cooling system it should go through the esc first because it won't heat up the water enough to make a difference on the cooling on the motor. But if you run it through the motor first it will heat the water and then the water will heat the esc,

[mannytx1]

The question you have to ask is "can the boat (Chinese toy) handle it?"

More than 57 mph

The design of the revolt 30 top speed 45 mph

Bye

I say goodbye to my fans (Doby,Tlandauser,Rumdog……. lol……,, to the next project

lol….Manny……lol