Shock resistant epoxy?

[Chilli]

Keep in mind, the 5200 takes a while to set up. I use it to bed down all my hardware mounted on the transom but I usually only use it on my winter builds when I know the 5200 has a couple weeks to cure fully.

Marinetex is great but expensive. I use it for all my exterior gelcoat repairs and blue printing the hull. You can get it in white and I think grey or black and it sands well. It mixes in a 5:1 ratio and sometimes that can be hard to estimate if you are doing a small batch. It's a two part and comes with a small jar of thick paste and a tiny jar of liquid catalyst.

For interior bonding, I still us JB Weld. Use it on battery trays, servo mounts and motor mounts. I've only had it fail once on a servo mount when I didnt prep there mounting surface properly. My SAW boat has had at least 20 blow overs at 70+ and the motor and servo mounts have held strong. One thing about JP, it's grey so it can look like crap if you do a messy job. I always lay down masking tape along the edges of the mounting suface, smear the JB on good, install what I need to mount and then pull up the tape. Makes for nice clean lines. It's also a two part and mixes 1:1.

[bob_t]

5200 is like the industry standard adhesive for "permanently" mounting items in full size boats. It bonds dissimilar materials really well, but can be very difficult/nearly impossible to remove later. K-planes (trim tabs) are usually mounted with 5200, along with through-bolts, and it is not uncommon for some of the gelcoat to come off with the K-planes if/when trying to remove them. 3M 4200 is another good choice. Very similar to 5200, just not as "permanent". Some boat builders use 5200, along with screws, to join the deck to the hull on "shoebox" type joints. The Marine Tex I've used in the past is more "hard" than "flexible", and may be too stiff for what you want to do, IMO.

[stadiumyamaha]

have any of you used the quick set 5200? I'm wanting to run Sunday son the standard 5200 may not work this time.

[tlandauer]

I dont want to muddy up the issue, but it seems to me that if the hull is too flexible, some reinforcement is in order. I have laid strips of fg tape/cloth at the v bottom to stiffen up the hull some what. Regardless of which type of epoxy you use, the stiffness of the tray will flex the hull and in the long run it may post some problem. I had a similar issue with my DF 45" Sniper that the builder epoxied down two thick ply wood and the constant force that is applied on the wood trays
eventually cracked the v-bottom.

[stadiumyamaha]

I agree with you and if it was a better hull to start with I'd go ahead and cf the whole thing. At this point I'm just going to replace the horrible tray that came with it and let it rip.
I've called the local west store and they have the fast set 5200 in stock.
Ill let y'all know how it turns out.
Thanks again everyone.

[properchopper]

The fast set 5200 should work just fine - it's only mildly not as strong as the normal cure stuff but even so it will still survive a thermonuclear blast. Just so you know, I originally started using it for mounting/repairing stuff in my rather flexible ABS Twinstorm hull and needed a flexible bond on the flexible surfaces inside the Twinnie. You'll appreciate how serious it sticks to stuff when you try to get it off your fingers - have plenty of rags and alcohol (or lighter fluid) handy !

[siberianhusky]

Polyurethane construction adhesive, available at any hardware store, Something like PL 200 or premium, has some flex to it, bonds almost anything to anything.
The 5200 fast set isn't as permanent as the regular 5200. Just used the 4200 the re-bed the cockpit combing on a 46 year old Alberg 30, need to be able to get it off again next time it needs Cetol. Next spring will be using the 5200 to re install 90% of the galley I'm building over the winter. (Personally think the new owner got taken to the cleaners on this one! Impulse buy no survey! All they saw was shiny new topside paint.)

[stadiumyamaha]

Got some at west marine. Will be installing tonight.
The wife and kids are out of town so I should have plenty of alcohol close by Tony.
Ill shoot a pic if the poor job I did after its finished.

[properchopper]

If you mask off the immediate vicinity of the areas to be bonded and peel the tape after curing begins you'll end up with a neater job. 5200 is rather gooey/sticky and really IS hard to clean up - I'm not kidding about having a cleanup solvent of your choice handy

DSC03559-1.JPG

[tlandauer]

It seems that I am always hyjacking a thread, sorry tobe a pain in the a**, l was making a sub hatch with lexan which I was suggested to use E 6000 made by Shoe Goo ( Eclectic Products ). It worked well. I want to know in this case would 5200 have worked too? Just curious.
Apologizing for driffting off topic again.

[stadiumyamaha]

I was planning on masking. I ripped that idea off from you on one of your posts long ago. Especially the stuffing tube one.

[ray schrauwen]

I find just using a high quality adhesive will fix it.

Be it silicone, Polyurethane, MAS or WestSystems Epoxy, solid or flexible they are all good. Polyurethane is a pain to clean up but sticks to anything if prepped right. I used some black Polyurethane stuff for winshield installation to do a repair on my car and it's crazy adhesive but, so messy.

My P-mono DF33 has a battery tray in there with plain old GE bathroom silicone sealant/adhesive and It hasn't moved in 5 years. The tube was maybe $6.00.

[graill]

Or you can go with HYSOL E-20HP through 60. Aircraft grade epoxy, not a one part sealant. Loctite or other major distributors have a huge selection but it is a bit spendy. 10 bucks to 200 depending on type and size. Meets all your needs though.

[stadiumyamaha]

Got it done guys. Thanks.

[properchopper]

Clean job, glad it worked for you. Now for "icing on the cake", get some of these

http://www.puretechproducts.com/ptprod_strapslg.htm