first time build - need help with 1527 1D setup

[96XP]

I've ordered a Sport Hydro Supersport 45 from Phil with hardware, and I don't want to bother him much in mean time, though he has recommended the 1527 1D for the boat on 4s2P, but what shaft size?.
Are today's (2012) 5mm motors as reliable as an 8mm shaft size? What is the difference in setup and performance/reliability, etc...?

I also have a box load of fairly fresh 5000mah 2s Lipos (for my other boats) and wonder if I could make up a 'Y' connector and pair them up into a 4s config?

As this is my first build, any and all tips would be appreciated.
Thanks for reading

[Fluid]

What experience do you have with FE boats? I ask because the setup you have is not the best for the big SS45 hull. It runs much better on 6S. I would strongly suggest that you get the 1527/1Y 8mm motor and run on 6S2P since you have a box full of 2S packs. The boat will run faster and cooler, with better reliability. You will need an ESC capable of at least 6S, although 8S or higher is better.



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[T.S.Davis]

Jay is right. A 1D on 4s in a 45 is likely going to self destruct. That's a lot hot for a boat that big. Maybe in the smaller Stealth sport.

You could do a 1.5D on 6s too but the 1y is a better option.

[96XP]

To be modest, my experience is with the UL-1 boats, and that's what inspired me to go bigger faster. (never enough, Lol)
however to my credit, I have a background in hobby electronic, fiberglass sculpture and new to FE boats, but have spent near a month reading up on a lot of topics, boats and accessories but always have questions.
I'm an avid competition jet skier with exceptionally good eye, hand, and balance coordination, not to mention aware of obstacles and such.

I took note about a week ago of the 1Y version, however since the 1D was suggested on 4sp, that's what I've ordered. I hope this isn't going to be a big error now that I've read your suggestions.
Fluid, when you state faster/cooler/more reliable, in what context? Would this be the result of too much heat building up inside the craft and damaging components?
-On a side note, I ordered a small brushless pump off eBay and was going to do some experimenting on the work bench (less motor) using additional cooling tubes and recirculating a 60?/40? aluminum block coolant to see how much I could control temperature in a confined space.
So if I continue down this path with the 1D version on the 4sp, what would the minimum requirement be for an ESC?

T.S., could you describe what would cause 'self destruct'? Is it that the motor would be insufficient, or overkill to the point of being uncontrollable and crashing?
If it's too fast, couldn't I trim the throttle down on transmitter?

[T.S.Davis]

This would be opinion only. There are probably people who have made it work but they're experienced seasoned racers running straight away setups. Straight away being one or two wide open passes.

That motor will draw a LOT of amperage in a hull that size. It will get really really hot. At some point the motor will just fail. It may destroy the speed controller in the process.

Honestly, the Thomas 45 is too big for a 4s setup. It's an awsome boat just too much for 4s.

Another way to think about it. Most guys run 6s in that size boats. 6s is 22volts x 150 amps or so equals about 3300 watts of output. 3300 watts is about 4.5 horse power.

So it takes approximately 4.5 horse to run a boat that size. Give or take.

To get that same 4.5 horse power from a 4s setup you have to have higher amperage. Take those same 3300watts divide by 4s voltage (14.8 volts) and you need 220 amps to get the same 4.5 horse power.

220 amps is doable but that's in a perfect world with a boat running at the perfect attitude with the perfect propeller going straight. The first time you turn the amperage will spike. To what I don't know but what ever it is it will be a lot of amperage. Close to 400 amps I would think. Lots of amps equals lots of heat and lots of potential for failure. A cold solder joint at that kind of power will fail.

Partial throttle only makes things worse as the fets on the ESC will heat up while doing that. Then when you do go to full throttle the fets are already hot. Out comes the magic smoke.

[96XP]

Gotcha.
I placed the order earlier this morning before you both replied, so as it's still early, I just contacted OSE to see if they could change the order to the 1Y. (Hope it gets worked out).
On that note, what brand/model of ESC would be best suited for the application?
And if I triple up on the batteries I have already, is there any special connectors to get them plugged in together, or is that something most do with their own skill?

[Fluid]

Terry is right. I hope you can get the order changed, I suspect so. I use the Castle ICE240 controller in my 6S Sport Hydro running 6S1P/6500mAh packs, it has been bulletproof for me - but I don't get my electronics wet. A dry boat will be far more reliable than a boat which leaks and gets the components wet. Seems logical, but you'd be shocked at how many FE boaters finish a run with ounces of water sloshing around in their boats!

I use 5.5mm bullet connectors, polarized so you don't plug them in wrong and dead-short your packs. These are low resistance (so are 6mm and 6.5mms) and make configuring packs like you want to do easy. One caveat - shorter is better concering wiring. Keep the wires between the packs and the ESC under 8 inches if possible.


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[Shooter]

Has anyone tried EC5 connectors on a similiar set-up (PT SS45 w/NEU 1527 1Y, 6S, ICE240)?? I think I talked to Terry about this the other day and the thought was that they would 'get hot'?? I really like the idea of having idiot proof connectors and no possibility of battery shorts in storage. Are there any other connectors out there worth a look?? Thanks.

[RaceMechaniX]

Follow the good advice given by Fluid above.

TG

[Shooter]

Sorry. To be more clear, I was looking for an insulated connector (i.e. similar to EC5, traxxas, etc...) with the + and - terminals joined.

[Make-a-Wake]

The 36" Thomas Hydro is in the "no mans land" to me, 36" and can really go either way. There are successful versions using 4s and 6s....................If you go 4s you need a big enough speedo T180 or better, and most likely 2p.

6s really would be best for overall life of the components..................

Here are a couple, one on 6s and one 4s.:




and 4s:

[96XP]

Intervention made, and he's checking to see if he has the 1Y v. coming in and with the onset of fall/winter, I have time.

I'm anticipating delivery of the EC5 style connectors but will get the 5.5 bullets ordered as well. They appear to be convenient and solid.

Both videos were quite impressive.

What prop to use? x447, x450, x646/3 ?

[Fluid]

37" Aeromarine hydro, 1527/1Y, 6S1P/6500mAh, CC ICE240, x452.

[96XP]

Nice boat and a good vid to see the lift. (as it all happens so fast)

[longballlumber]

Has anyone tried EC5 connectors on a similiar set-up (PT SS45 w/NEU 1527 1Y, 6S, ICE240)?? I think I talked to Terry about this the other day and the thought was that they would 'get hot'?? I really like the idea of having idiot proof connectors and no possibility of battery shorts in storage. Are there any other connectors out there worth a look?? Thanks.

Hey Pete,

Stick with he connectors that Terry is suggesting you will better off in the long run. Go to Home Depot or Lowe and get an electrical tape "rainbow" pack that has several colors in it and color code your connectors. The make sure you’re plugging in yellow to yellow, white to white... etc...

Unless you plan on getting one 6000+ mAh 6S pack, you will need to parallel two 6s packs (2P) to get the capacity. IF you need to run 2P your EC5 connectors are going to cause a bunch of extra connections and more of a head ache in my opinion. We can talk more about it when you come buy this weekend.

Later,
Ball

http://www.tapebrothers.com/Electrical-Tape-Rainbow-Pack-p/el766clrain.htm