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Sounds like you have it planned out, this boat can handle speed it seems like. For sure add transom bracing to stiffin it up and I would even stiffen up the sides in between joints. Mine are a little flexible.
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When speed isnt the option, change your ways -
Just making a list of the gear I need to purchase, got the boat in the mail already :D
Thanks for the stiffening tips, I'll add a couple of stringers into the bottom of the hull, that aught to keep it stiff enough
I hear that these are very light, and some of their riding abilities, or lack thereof, is because of that... What size batteries do you guys run? Someone mentioned lead as well?
Really appreciated Mason! :)Comment
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I ran a 5300mah 3s, but that will last a long time. I think a 3000mah would last a good 6-8 minutesWhen speed isnt the option, change your waysComment
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When speed isnt the option, change your waysComment
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So it's a 'Balaenoptera Musculus stripped down to bare hull, fill all the holes, I used paper towels and super glue, turns really hard and tight, then seal the hull, add supports. Make or get a motor mount, pretty easy I made mine, sheet metal and bent it and drille holes. Epoxy that in, I did it wrong and drilled and bolted it..., mount the motor with a good COG. Then you can epoxy a servo in or make a mount like mine. I'm going to try making a platform for a battery, esc, and receiver all up off the botom.When speed isnt the option, change your waysComment
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thanks HEAPS mate :) really appreciated!
I get a 90mm rudder and a 50mm drive from your pictures, which basically means, I'll grab this combo, with the lot in it :)
That way I don't miss out on some little bit that I didn't think of
The drive, and the different components are still a bit unknown to me... I've never run anything with a flex shaft, teflon liners and outer stuffing tubes?..
BUT if someone would be kind enough to give me a guide as to what I need, that would be VERY appreciated :D
cheers guys!
/MartinComment
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Tht combo has a lip on the stinger tht you will need to build a small stand. Look for something tht doesn't need a stand, that would be easier for you I think.When speed isnt the option, change your waysComment
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I have a 3/18 shaft in think, Shawn correct me... But I have the flex bent to come out the rear of the hull level. Do you have the hull yetWhen speed isnt the option, change your waysComment
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Hi Mason,
Cheers, I understand why you'd need a large pod with your setup... I never thought of that, so thanks for pointing it out
I'm not sure adding a pod to the back of the boat is a bad thing.
I believe, you can have positive effects by having a longer distance between the bow and the prop (in this case extended a bit behind the bow).
What it does is to make the boat act like a slightly larger boat (handling wise).
The suggested strudder (I heard that somewhere, stinger + rudder = strudder... LOL) would only need a pod of less than 20mm I'd say...
Could someone point me to a howto on how these drives are assembled? I find it a bit confusing with the different sizes, and some are the same diameter, but different names??
e.g. 1/8, 3/16, 4mm (which is also .150?) and 1/4 (although that just seems ridiculous in size?!?)
The part I don't understand is, how do I put my own "kit" together?
What diameters am I looking for?
I'm sure this is not as hard as it feels right now, but I've never seen it assembled, or dis-assembled...
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated :)
Cheers
MartinComment
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You are correct sir,You can run 1/8(.098) cable for props 35mm and under(or I always have).You can go a little heavier duty with a .130 cable(good up to 40mm props),or step up to .150/4mm cable(and this is as large as you'll need for this hull).All these can be fitted to a 3/16 prop shaft(this is the part that runs through the strut and bushings).These can be silver soldered or glued with Loctite 638/648(my preference).That strudder setup is probably preassembled which means they come with bushings(not all include these) and the cable/prop shaft are together.Hi Mason,
Cheers, I understand why you'd need a large pod with your setup... I never thought of that, so thanks for pointing it out
I'm not sure adding a pod to the back of the boat is a bad thing.
I believe, you can have positive effects by having a longer distance between the bow and the prop (in this case extended a bit behind the bow).
What it does is to make the boat act like a slightly larger boat (handling wise).
Cheers
Martin
If you end up with a 4mm setup you will need a prop adapter http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1030 to fit the most popular props.Last edited by srislash; 11-01-2012, 08:05 AM.Comment
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Gut the whole boat first to a bare hull. No electronics. Then you need a cutting tool like a dremel and you need to cut some off the plastic tabs like battery holders, and some motor mount tabs etc. we want a hull with seriously nothing else except some tabs that you can mount plates too. So the "stinger mounts on back" need to be popped off, and those ad the drive shaft holes filled too. After that is do, we can talk about starting to make the hardware fit. You can listen to Shawn about the sizes and it does help having the back stick out further and actually I think it would wheelie and flip if it wasn't longer.
To make a stand is easy, just need a block of wood.
I'm excited to see you start this build. I want this to not have the problems mine has. I'm going to try and find one if these hulls and start again same setup just carry over to a new hull and fix the problems I did.When speed isnt the option, change your waysComment
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Thanks for your explanation Shawn, really appreciated! :)
It seems a 4mm setup might be a bit large for what I want, I like the idea of something smaller TBH, especially if I'm going to run it on 3S, I'll need a smaller prop
How do you know, that the shafts etc will fit into the stinger drive? It seems to me that the drive shaft is connected to the flex shaft, inside the stinger tube?
If so, are there different sizes of shafts, which then fits the 1/8th flex shaft, which fits a specific teflon liner, that then fit a specific thickness of stuffing tube?
Also, those bushes, are they needed at both ends of the stinger drive? Should I look for drives with these included, or are they readily available?
I assume they are there to take most of the wear and tear out of the drive as well as stabilize the prop shaft?
I get what you're saying Mason, I'm just keen to have all the gear here :D in reality though, I'm currently waiting on a whole heap of gear, but it's all for a new Jet boat build (this boat was bought also, but I've got no hardware yet)
Hopefully all of it will start arriving over the next few days, and I can start gathering gear for the new Musculus (or 757 High Wind or whatever they are called LOL)
Sorry for all the silly questions, I guess it will all be revealed in good time (I hope I won't be missing bits though )
Cheers
MartinComment
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YAY!! Look what the postie brought to me :D
And it's even in the Aussie Green and Gold colour!!! WOOT WOOT (don't actually think I'll be painting the boat now... maybe later)
Yes, the stock batteries are charging, yes I'm going to take it out this arvo :) 3S test/ burnout on the weekend, just gotta get the rescue boat sorted hahaha
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Nice when u gunna start tearing her down? After the first run? HahaWhen speed isnt the option, change your waysComment
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