Boat hull choices

[Alexgar]

I'd have the mount ,tube,strut and rudder I tried to reinforce the also resin the tube tube support and the lock nuts in place

[Alexgar]

Not anything like yours this is and plastic but I've been taking my time on this and 2 more builds

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-26&highlight=

[Alexgar]

If I can be of any help let me know in no expert but have built a couple and most of us here are always willing to help

[KartRacer]

Thanks Alexgar, for the info and offer. I will order hull, Mount, Stuffing tube, Strut, Rudder and some CF sheeting for reinforcement on Monday from OSE.
Do I use thin Epoxy or CA for the CF sheets.

[Alexgar]

I use resin ca is dangerous by a lot if people use epoxy ,I have fg resin readily available to me in large amounts my friend fixes full size boats

[KartRacer]

Has anyone put together a step list of logical order of task on a build up from hull.
I have no idea of the best sequence.

Example
Reinforce hull
Set motor mount
Set battery tray
Etc
Etc

KartRacer

[LarrysDrifter]

I always:
1. Re-inforced
2. Mount transom hardware
3. Add flotation in bow
4. Lay rest of components out, including batteries to find center of gravity. Do not permanently mount anything until COG is figured. After you found COG, lightly mark where components are placed, then mount everything.

[KartRacer]

Thanks larrysDrifter
That will help me order the necessary items to begin project.
Do you have a preference on CF sheets or glass. CA or epoxy? If epoxy do you thin it to re-inforce or?
Seems as if we used a different epoxy when we did the airplane wing joiners and sheeting. Real thin and very slow set.

[Scott T]

KartRacer,

I would probably go for the Pirate over the DF35, Delta Force have been evolving their hlls and I think the newer breed is better.

I have built a DF21 MkII (37"), and I ordered it with rails (4" spacing). The rails are excellent for mounting the servo, receiver and motor mount. They also strengthen the hull enough to do away with any additional reinforcement. You should be able to fit 2 x 4S packs in there. Otherwise without rails will also work, but you'll need to strangthen the bottom with carbon matting and epoxy.

The 21 MkII runs excellent on 6S, and I have also raced it on 4S and it was very competitive (we don't have the length limits here in Australia).

This is a link to my build thread - http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...Mk2&highlight=

[LarrysDrifter]

CF cloth and Z Poxy Finishing Resin.

[KartRacer]

Thanks larrysdrifter

We used z poxy on the wing joiners but everything was fiberglass cloth back then. Carbon fiber was just coming out in 1/4" strips for reinforcing stringers.
Looking forward to getting this project off the ground. Maybe will get some rain soon so the lake levels come up.
KartRacer

[KartRacer]

Scott
You believe pirate is better? It's a toss up for me. Pirate newer design?

[Flying Scotsman]

Bang on, especially mounting wood to the transom ....the more flotation the better in the whole hull...choose your hardware and other compenents with care.

Douggie

I always:
1. Re-inforced
2. Mount transom hardware
3. Add flotation in bow
4. Lay rest of components out, including batteries to find center of gravity. Do not permanently mount anything until COG is figured. After you found COG, lightly mark where components are placed, then mount everything.

[KartRacer]

Well suggestions have been to do a Leopard 4082, seaking 180,rudder and stinger as suggested on OSE site and run 3s for power. I am guessing I need two 3s for 6s power not sure right. Ow if they meant two 3s for run time, 11v or 22v. I'll have to check that further. Would like to near 50mph , but don't want to be at limits on ele tronics to where they are at risk every run.

[KartRacer]

Thanks for everyones input and Steven's suggestions.
35" Pirate hull and hardware ordered tonight.
Will give me a great start on the build.

Will Run Leopard 4082, w/ 2 ~ 3s Lipo packs.