Closed loop cooling

[drwayne]

I will see if i can get you a litre of my EX wifes blood. It passes threw a heart of ice and i am sure it would stay cold for the next few hundred years

Parts of my ex are now super chilly, great for esc cooler plates ... but her blood is always fire+ice .. not appropriate.
The bigger picture is where to cultivate the bits you dont need ?
hahaha
W.

note: no ex wives were harmed during production this thread. ( afterwards, Shhhhh )

[drwayne]

electronics finished for temp Vs waterflow & failsafe ( jumpered at 40.50.60'C ).
Waiting for boat build to start !
W

[ReddyWatts]

If your wires are getting to hot, use shorter or bigger wire or both. It lowers the resistance of the wire, which lowers the voltage drop (heat/watts/power loss) in the wires.

[Old Sloppy]

If your wires are getting to hot, use shorter or bigger wire or both. It lowers the resistance of the wire, which lowers the voltage drop (heat/watts/power loss) in the wires.

ReddyWatts is correct. I would like to add that if your wires are 1 degree above ambient tempature, Use Shorter or Bigger wire or both.....

Harry

[TheShaughnessy]

cooling

found this cooler while looking through a magazine in a waiting room. Meant for a cpu but of course i had boats on the mind. The dimensions listed lead me to believe it may be a bit large to be practical for most applications, but perhaps there is something it could be used in. For instance a boat that often finds itself in salt water or in the gulf where the water is not only salty but fairly warm as well. My guess, after a trip to FL is that the water on the surface is 80+ degrees F*

anyhow here is the link. http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Pr...ad.asp?idx=477
My thought was to place the cooling plate on the endbell of the motor. Placement of the radiator could be an issue. would be cool if the fins were integrated in to the deck/bow section of a boat.

upon further inspection of the pictures the radiator is just like a mini car radiator, i was thinking it was more like a heat sink with fins. Another issue would be toting around an additional 3s lipo to power the unit not to mention the the weight of the unit itself. As is it would only be useful to cool the motor but I'm sure it could be modded to cool the esc with a couple additional water lines and i'm sure you would want to plumb it to cool the motor via a water jacket in addition to the copper cooling plate.

[graill]

A product called water wetter, redline racing makes it among a few others, all have some degree of acid so be careful if you guys decide to use it in those closed loop systems.

[Jacked1]

I always thought replacing the cooling block with a small aluminum box filled with ice would be the simplest, easiest, and most effective way to to do a closed cooling system.

[Shooter]

Just a thought as I am very much struggling with high water temps...... Assuming we need some weight in the front of the boat, could we have a plate of copper with several flow passages upstream in the cooling system circuit?? The copper plate would sit in ICE water before the run. Pull it out of the ICE water and connect it inline with the cooling system before the run. It would pull heat out of the inlet water before getting to the motor/esc and wouldn't have the mess of ice/water, etc.... The only question is capacity....and what to do with the condensate.

[drwayne]

Ive 2 problems here in South Australia ( for fe cooling ! ).
1) summertime our days can be 115'f+ .. and water temps not far behind.
2) 365 days of the year, many the fresh water locations have salinity/algae/ecoli !
Clean cooling is an important thought.
Certainly the added mass of closed loop cooling is problematic.
Ive a 54" twin 12S 5692 on build, and have the following items.
A header tank of 600ml, a pair of 1L/min 6v pumps, 2S1P20C3300, Rx on/off 5A switch.
Adds 0.790Kg .. or 9% .. new total rtr weight 8.5Kg.
The encapsulated water is recirculated every ~20 seconds.. a race 2 minutes max on water.. mill, race, return.
Using chilled anti-freeze as coolant... ( a green 'cordial' bottle in the freezer ! )
Relying on ice fragments or blocks on hand during an event is flawed, in my opinion.
Keeping the coolant chilled seems simpler.... a workman's good thermos flask can hold fluid below freezing for most of the day.

A few more items to finish before this gets a maiden .

Burn and learn, hey !

W