kintec sells it too
elecrical spray to seal esc ect
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I like Conformal Coating - better heat dissipation and you can check coverage with a black light.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ing&highlight=IMPBA 20481S D-12Comment
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JIM MARCUM: NAMBA 777; EX? SoCal FE Racers Club; D-19; Official 2012 NAMBA FE Nationals Rescue Diver; Purple Heart Viet Nam Vet; Professional SCUBA/HOOKA Diver, KELCO, 1973-1978; BBA 1978, Magna Cum Laude; MBA 1980 w/honors; Retired DOD GS1102-12 Contract SpecialistComment
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Even "thin" epoxy will insulate the ESC somewhat & make it run hotter. Besides, why do it the hard way when you can easily waterproof it with a $7 spray can? JIM
JIM MARCUM: NAMBA 777; EX? SoCal FE Racers Club; D-19; Official 2012 NAMBA FE Nationals Rescue Diver; Purple Heart Viet Nam Vet; Professional SCUBA/HOOKA Diver, KELCO, 1973-1978; BBA 1978, Magna Cum Laude; MBA 1980 w/honors; Retired DOD GS1102-12 Contract SpecialistComment
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Conformal Coating for me
I have some electronics background and 25 + years in R/C.
Conformal Coating - Many types, some won't hold up to heat. Dipping it would allow it to work into tiny pockets very well as opposed to spray. It is not a waterproofing product but will have that effect for most of what we do in our hobby. When I met the owner of Castle Creations a few years back he said this is what they use. It's been my choice.
Silicone - Will insulate, be sure you know what you are doing and where your applying it. Would not use on speed control. Has to be electrical grade silicone.
2 part epoxy - Good so long as electrical grade and don't need to make repairs. Will insulate as well so be careful where you use it.
Liquid electrical tape and Grip Dip - Pretty close to the same end results. Will work well except for again the insulating factor. Neither product sticks to silicone wires or even the plastic wires that well. Will seal so long as it's not fooled with or pried away from the board in some way.
I prefer conformal coating. I remove the shrink wrap from my speed control, spray about 3 - 4 coats of conformal coating on each side, wipe the coating from the top of the power ICs as I am spraying, wait for final coat to dry and re-install my heat sink and re-shrink wrap it. I've done this on cars and submerged them many times.
Good luck!Comment
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Yes you can but as I understand it epoxy needs to be suited for electrical use. You get back to the whole heat issue, not being able to work on it,etc.
I'd just get the conformal spray. I can look up where I bought it and post back. It was cheapest with shipping I places I found. They shipped same day and no minimum order.Comment
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I wouldn't I tried this on a turnigy hv 80 amp speedo (that i bought on accident... why wont it arm on 4 s) So I ended up running 5s with it for a while and the only reason i can think of for failure is it got wet cause it doesn't work anymore and it never smelt burnt up. Diesels vid says it all really, just use conformal.
on a side note i would not say liquid electrical tape and plasti dip are similar at all. The liquid tape smells way different and it doesn't have the texture like the plasti dip stuff. Also my rx's have seen lots of exposure to moisture and they are still going strong with the electrical. Plasti dip actually seemed to trap water in for me.Comment
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Here's a few products on my shelf that are usefull for different applications. To begin with, conventional wisdom is that it's better to coat electrical FE goodies rather than try to seal them. Sealing has several disadvantages : it seals the heat in, usually doesn't work, and can trap in moisture when it works its way in especially with speedys and servos.. My take is that coating is the better choice. Conformal is probably the best bet, but may not resist high temps and is messy/labor intensive. My first choice for coating is CorrosionXHD - spray on, gooey/gummy and flows well until it gels. For motors that get dunked (as in tunnels) regular CorrosionX is the ticket. Spray-on ElectraMates Insulating Epoxy Coating goes on thin & dries hard. Good for boards, but I still prefer CorrosionX HD for boards. Brush-on Scotchkote electrical coating good for split insulation on wires, but goes on thin and takes multiple coats. SealAll is a great all-purpose adhesive-sealant - I use it on all through-hull bolts and have used it on split insulation emergencies- it dries quickly.Still haven't found a use for the High Voltage Putty - sounded good while I was shopping at the electronics store may be a good "emergency cure". Unfortunately it has no nutritional value but its non-hardening property hits close to home
DSC03171.JPG2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /MonoComment
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Shoe Goo
Proper chooper, great info! i have not tried corrosion X but will be doing so.
This is not really for electronics although it's been used. It sticks real well but not so well that it can't be removed. Stays somewhat flexible and is cheap. I use it for ton's of things R/C and other. I like that it dries pretty quick and can be removed. Kinda like a more friendly and forgiving silicone. In boating I've just used it to seal holes like antenna mounts and where wires come through.Comment
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Here's a few products on my shelf that are usefull for different applications. To begin with, conventional wisdom is that it's better to coat electrical FE goodies rather than try to seal them. Sealing has several disadvantages : it seals the heat in, usually doesn't work, and can trap in moisture when it works its way in especially with speedys and servos.. My take is that coating is the better choice. Conformal is probably the best bet, but may not resist high temps and is messy/labor intensive. My first choice for coating is CorrosionXHD - spray on, gooey/gummy and flows well until it gels. For motors that get dunked (as in tunnels) regular CorrosionX is the ticket. Spray-on ElectraMates Insulating Epoxy Coating goes on thin & dries hard. Good for boards, but I still prefer CorrosionX HD for boards. Brush-on Scotchkote electrical coating good for split insulation on wires, but goes on thin and takes multiple coats. SealAll is a great all-purpose adhesive-sealant - I use it on all through-hull bolts and have used it on split insulation emergencies- it dries quickly.Still haven't found a use for the High Voltage Putty - sounded good while I was shopping at the electronics store may be a good "emergency cure". Unfortunately it has no nutritional value but its non-hardening property hits close to home
[ATTACH=CONFIG]75195[/ATTACH]Comment
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"Still haven't found a use for the High Voltage Putty - sounded good while I was shopping at the electronics store may be a good "emergency cure". Unfortunately it has no nutritional value but its non-hardening property hits close to home"
Wonder if mixing Viagra with water would help with the "non-hardening" thing?JIM
JIM MARCUM: NAMBA 777; EX? SoCal FE Racers Club; D-19; Official 2012 NAMBA FE Nationals Rescue Diver; Purple Heart Viet Nam Vet; Professional SCUBA/HOOKA Diver, KELCO, 1973-1978; BBA 1978, Magna Cum Laude; MBA 1980 w/honors; Retired DOD GS1102-12 Contract SpecialistComment
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