@Paul, thanks for your good wishes and the time you took to post all the valuable knowledge. BTW, don't want to use the wrong place to ask this question, but maybe the most efficient way to get a response. For best COG, do you place your battery packs infront of the motor like most Pursuit were designed or on the side so there could be more adjustment margin?
Sorry to do this guys, I know the rules...
@Chief, I have the same question as Lenny, looking forward to read your build perhaps on the forum.
As it's your thread I think you can ask any question you like.
And in answer to your question, I run the battery in front of the motor. As I do in all my boats.
If you are going to run parallel packs as many people do then they will need to be further back & possibly to the sides.
Here's a pic of the inside after I added rails & a new battery tray.
All I do for waterproofing components is a balloon & cable tie on the receiver, Natural cure silicon sealant (not acid cure) in the ends of the ESC. With a servo I just loosen the 4 casing screws split the case a bit run a bit of sealant around the join & screw it back together. Then add a dob of sealant on the head of each screw & around the cable entry. I then fill the little well area around the splined shaft with grease & push the horn on & wipe off the grease that oozes out around the back of the horn. Some people pull things apart & spray with Corrosion-X, or plastidip liquid tape. There are a few different ways to go about waterproofing components. A search on these threads will turn up a lot of info.
Cheers.
Paul.
Love the rails you added, looks great, thanks for the pic. as well, I do run parallel and although I have so far placed them in front I find the COG to be off and am thinking the other placement. I will need to put the ESC infront---not a big deal.
Thanks!
to ALL WHO HAVE HELPED ME!
OK, I tested and the words "BONE DRY" have never meant this much to me! All the extra sealing and making sure the bushings were right paid off! I gained my sanity back thanks to you all, Have a great Holiday weekend!
Tim
If you don't mind me asking, what method did you exactly do? I'm having issues with my boat dripping while sitting in the tub and when I ran the boat I blew my esc due to splashing and such. I tried using silcone tubing and o-rings, also a combination of both and it never panned out. Any help would be appreciated.
Sorry to hear about your ESC. I assume when you said "dripping", it is between the motor shaft and the stuffing tube? ( water coming up from the stuffing tube) I also assume you did the obvious: put silicone fuel tubing on that end so the flex cable is wrapped? Usually after that is done, there should not be any dripping while the boat is static in a tub.
My problem was when I drive the boat water comes in, took me a long time to believe the gap between the transom and stinger was the culprit. I used silicone sealent to block any gap----the kind you buy at normal hardware store. It can be just for bathroom faucet sealing. Use a good quality one. I use GE, but other brands would do.
I need to go to work, perhaps when I come back I can take some pictures to post here to show you.
Why are they ?
Designed to run "wet" (no way to waterproof the hull). So now my attention has turned to waterproofing components...
Hi,
The shovelnose hull I have has an open motor bay with a scale model motor, and also has a large high profile cowl with a fin on it-- any crash will rip these off anyway, and I'd rather they cleanly break away verses causing hull damage by trying to lock them down...
Sorry to hear about your ESC. I assume when you said "dripping", it is between the motor shaft and the stuffing tube? ( water coming up from the stuffing tube) I also assume you did the obvious: put silicone fuel tubing on that end so the flex cable is wrapped? Usually after that is done, there should not be any dripping while the boat is static in a tub.
My problem was when I drive the boat water comes in, took me a long time to believe the gap between the transom and stinger was the culprit. I used silicone sealent to block any gap----the kind you buy at normal hardware store. It can be just for bathroom faucet sealing. Use a good quality one. I use GE, but other brands would do.
I need to go to work, perhaps when I come back I can take some pictures to post here to show you.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, referring to your statement, it's dripping water between motor and stuffing tube while boat is sitting still in the tub. When I tried drive it, it just caused a Tsunami inside the hull, ended up blowing one of the esc. I am running a fightercat shocker twin setup with 3/16 cable and stinger. I have tried silicone tubing and oring with no luck, same issue every time. I even put an oring on the stinger side before the drive dog. I will try silicone sealant but if you can post pics it would be very helpful. I dont want to go crazy and silcone my whole drive components. Thanks again.
The same thing with me: infact the VERY first thing I did before putting the boat in water was to put a silicone fule tube at the exit of stuffing tube where it mates with the stinger. I was so SURE that took care of any water issue and continued looking else where for causes, not until I posted here and after many advices that I sealed the gap, bingo! water is gone! Here is two pictures, before and after.DSCN1827_1333.jpgDSCN1857_1361.jpg
The same thing with me: infact the VERY first thing I did before putting the boat in water was to put a silicone fule tube at the exit of stuffing tube where it mates with the stinger. I was so SURE that took care of any water issue and continued looking else where for causes, not until I posted here and after many advices that I sealed the gap, bingo! water is gone! Here is two pictures, before and after.[ATTACH=CONFIG]75576[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]75577[/ATTACH]
Thanks for the pics. It helps a little. My stinger is a fightercat style so I'm going to take it apart and see how it would pull water. Thank you again.
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