What am I missing?

[T.S.Davis]

I'm begging everyone to stop putting 6s in the Geico, Mystic and the Motley. There's a thread on here just today that follows my reasoning.

"im really looking for an insane fast boat" Prime example. Those Geico hulls will not survive at those kind of speeds. The seam on the Geico will open up like a clam shell.

I haven't seen the FC Cheata run yet but it has to be better suited for re-entry at insane fast speeds. Plus, the bare hull is cheaper than a bare hull Geico. So if you're after "insane fast" why not build for the inevitable?

[T.S.Davis]

Had to be a setup now that I think about it.

[jamespl]

I run 4s on my genesis and stiletto. Works great for me sport running. 40mph is plenty fast enough for me though. My boats are the fastest thing down the local club as most guys run scale or brushed stuff.

[Steven Vaccaro]

I'm begging everyone to stop putting 6s in the Geico, Mystic and the Motley. There's a thread on here just today that follows my reasoning.

"im really looking for an insane fast boat" Prime example. Those Geico hulls will not survive at those kind of speeds. The seam on the Geico will open up like a clam shell.

I haven't seen the FC Cheata run yet but it has to be better suited for re-entry at insane fast speeds. Plus, the bare hull is cheaper than a bare hull Geico. So if you're after "insane fast" why not build for the inevitable?

Terry its simple. LOTS of people like the entry level cost of those boats pre-built. then want to upgrade speed. The best way to do this is 6s. Speeds easily get in the 50mph or more range, at lower amps than a 4s setup.so the system is much more reliable.

[Steven Vaccaro]

I'm begging everyone to stop putting 6s in the Geico, Mystic and the Motley. There's a thread on here just today that follows my reasoning.

"im really looking for an insane fast boat" Prime example. Those Geico hulls will not survive at those kind of speeds. The seam on the Geico will open up like a clam shell.

I haven't seen the FC Cheata run yet but it has to be better suited for re-entry at insane fast speeds. Plus, the bare hull is cheaper than a bare hull Geico. So if you're after "insane fast" why not build for the inevitable?

Terry its simple. LOTS of people like the entry level cost of those boats pre-built. then want to upgrade speed. The best way to do this is 6s. Speeds easily get in the 50mph or more range, at lower amps than a 4s setup.so the system is much more reliable.

[crash440]

Darin could you show me where some one has been hurt by voltage of a rc boat? What you show above with your link is comparring apples to oranges. I hope this does not sound disrespectful,because it wasnt meant to be.

[T.S.Davis]

It's the math. We don't need examples. NAMBA and IMPBA both have a max voltage because somebody years ago already knew what voltage "could" damage your heart.

Honestly though, I've seen multiple people dead short 32 cell packs and a couple people dead short 10s packs. One guys whole hand was black. Injured long term no but yyyowch for sure. If that had been a 14s setup who knows what would have happen. I also so a guy dead short a pack with a steel file. Looked like it had been struck by lightening.

Steven, I get it. I just don't like it. My position is TOTALLY self serving though. I can admit that. I want want want everyone to try and enjoy racing as much as I do. Going to 6s is in a Mystic for example changes it from a boat that fits nicely into an existing class to a boat that lands in a class which it absolutely can not compete. A 50mpg Mystic will get run over in Q offshore. Crank up the speed to 60 and try to run a 29" boat in race water and they'll be lucky to get teh parts back.

Nope, not everyone races. Going to 6s in these entry level boats will ensure that they never do.

[Rumdog]

Why do you care what guy's who AREN'T racing run?

[properchopper]

It seems clear that there are three demographics involved in this issue : racers like many of us that will put lots of miles on the odometer to get the max heat time which, given the most populated classes, will have mostly 4S boats. Then there's the conservative 6S setup guys interested in extended run times with low stress electronics. And, bless their hearts, the ZSP/WTS ? * guys who wannagofaster without due diligence to the finer aspects of tuning. Actually there are also the 10S+ boaters with (we hope) rigs that can withstand the rigors of high voltage - the rigors of which are potentially dangerous and in my observation are nearly always cropping up. There's a place for all of these in the hobby.

(Don't forget that the ZSP/WTS? guys create a big spending trend in rigging/crashing+burning/remodding category just like in the heli world. Keeps the cash register ringing.)

In a perfect world (who am I kidding?) there might be a "High Voltage Safety Classroom" requirement just like the "Gun Safety Class" one has to go through to purchase firearms in some states. Of course I'm just dreaming here, but whatever.

*[ZoomSplashPlop-WhatsThatSmell ?]

[Punisher 67]

Actually there are also the 10S+ boaters with (we hope) rigs that can withstand the rigors of high voltage - the rigors of which are potentially dangerous and in my observation are nearly always cropping up. There's a place for all of these in the hobby.*[ZoomSplashPlop-WhatsThatSmell ?]

Hello Tony

I see where this is kind of going and I agree it is insane to stuff 10 cells in a little rig in an idiotic quest to see how fast it will go . For some of us that run 25 - 35 pound boats that are 4 - 6 feet long 10 cells is usually the minimum requirement . I am absolutly anal about safety and only pull the plug safety caps off as I am plugging in each individual battery and do it the other way around when the run is done .

[NativePaul]

I'm an idiot that has dead shorted an 8s pack on my metal charger, most of the 6mm bullet disappeared instantly and half of my hand and my charger turned black, yes it stung a bit like it had been slapped hard, but it was nowhere near as bad as it looked and I was more worried about whether I could solder on a new connector and still get charged up in time for the next heat than for the state of my hand, most of the black washed off after the heat, and that which didn't was only in the outer layer of skin and came off in a couple of days with no deep burning at all. I have also lot a scalpel blade shorting from one cell to the next while rebuilding a pack, so I am pretty confident that voltage isnt much of an issue here and the much the same would have happened if I had shorted a 2s pack. I am however intelligent enough to know that I'm an idiot and wont be running 24s for fear of electrocuting myself, 12s is the highest I will go on safety grounds.

[Punisher 67]

Paul when I mention idiot its when a person plugs positive into the negative - a dead short done that way sorry I wasn't more specific - mishaps do happen thats why I am anal with the plug caps and when they come off .

Before I put my foot in my mouth I do agree the higher voltages are not for everyone - As mentioned before with my setups I take every precaution

[Doug Smock]

I have been using Castle controllers for over 15 years now. I have burnt my share up and have even plugged the batteries together on 10 and 12s packs and experianced all the fireworks and a few burn marks.

Well apparently you can be an idiot and survive at least 15 years Peter.

Been watching what's going on the last several months and tried not to post on this thread but...... I'm going to throw my opinion out here, and if it offends anyone I apologize in advance.

Sport boaters, do as you wish and please be safe and responsible.

Racers, if you can't get where you are going within the current rules (10s max) then perhaps you should be doing something you're better at, or seek out someone that has done it successfully.

12,14,20, 24s, where does it end fellas?? Nevermind, I know it doesn't.
Please be smarter than the toys you are playing with.
Doug

[jamespl]

isnt it the curret that kills not the voltage? And i can say from experience that everyone makes mistakes, we are only human. In the Uk we run everything on 240v and ive had a couple of kicks shall we say but no damage. Once i replaced a central heating pump on a boiler (thats my job) and its a simple plug in 3 wires. live, neutral and earth and may i say i do this day in day out but for some reason i plugged the earth into the live and the live into the earth, normally as soon as you turn it on it would have blown the fuse but because the back body of the pump is plastic it didnt so when i put my hand on the pump to see why it wasnt spinning i got a bit of a shock. My point is it doesnt mater how anal, careful or what ever you are you can still make a mistake!

[Flying Scotsman]

I will enter the fray, I am a sport boater and mostly run 4 or 5S on low Kv motors with a good quality ESC and a moderate prop as the largest hull I run is 33" long and I am a happy camper with this type of setup. The problem I perceive is that many sport boaters with RTR boats stick in high Kv motors with 6S power, cheap ESC and huge props and of course you all know what happens next......Racing is another matter and I respect these people who develop the sport and push the envelope. I just want to have fun and not spend a lot of cash replacing equipment.

Douggie