Question about Loctite for Flex shafts

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  • iamandrew
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2010
    • 577

    #1

    Question about Loctite for Flex shafts

    Just a quick question, is anyone here up with the numbers for loctite?
    In some old posts it says that you can use loctite 603 to bind flex cable to the stub shaft, but is it possible to coat the collet part of the flex cable and allow the loctite to dry instead of using solder to hold the cable together?
  • siberianhusky
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Dec 2009
    • 2187

    #2
    I don't think so, a small butane mico torch and a package of sta-brite silver solder and it's easy to do the cable end. Pretty sure you can get all the supplies in the same section of the tool dept at home depot. Once you figure it out you'll find all kinds of things you can make instead of buying.
    Having the parts clean is the big one,brake cleaner works great for this. Then use the torch to heat the cable end just until the solder flows smoothly into the strands of the cable, then stop! You'll have to clean the end up a bit with some wet/dry sandpaper.
    Exact same stuff and method to soldering threaded ends on pushrod material.
    I use the same torch sometimes with different solder to attach big bullet connectors.
    Won't be a one use tool for you, worth spending the money on.
    If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?

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    • Siggy
      Member
      • Apr 2011
      • 48

      #3
      I used Loctite 648 (green)

      Comment

      • LarrysDrifter
        Big Booty Daddy
        • May 2010
        • 3278

        #4
        You can use 603 on the motor end of the flex. I always thought it had to be soldered, but it doesnt. You can just not do anything on the motor end if you wish. Either of the 3 ways can be done. Ive just began using 603 on mine after recieving this advise from a very experienced member here. Sometimes, solder can prevent the collet from gripping the flex properly.

        Comment

        • Fluid
          Fast and Furious
          • Apr 2007
          • 8012

          #5
          Larry is correct. I've been doing this for several years and have not had a cable end loosen - but all I use are collet couplers, no set screws. Far easier (and better IMO) than solder, which if improperly done can weaken the cable. Doesn't require special soldering torches, etc. either. The 603 product can even be used on a used cable, while soldering never seems to work after the cable is soaked in lube.


          .
          ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for

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          • RaceMechaniX
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Sep 2007
            • 2821

            #6
            I have used 603 with no problems in several gas boats an even my DF Sniper with a 3080 which cranked out 12.5kW. In fact the cable twisted on the Sniper and the Loctite joint was fine. It works!

            Tyler
            Tyler Garrard
            NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
            T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

            Comment

            • properchopper
              • Apr 2007
              • 6968

              #7
              Never lost a shaft with 603. Clean shaft & flex with carb cleaner to chase any milling lube out of shaft. Works for me.
              2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
              2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
              '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

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              • martin
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Aug 2010
                • 2887

                #8
                603 is oil tolerant but not as strong as 638 or 648 but the latter 2 are not oil tolereant Loctites. Having said that ive not had a problem with all 3 regarding any failures. Martin.

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                • RaceMechaniX
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Sep 2007
                  • 2821

                  #9
                  For either solder or Loctite joints it's crucial to prep both surfaces. The shaft and ferrule need to be oil free and preferably slightly scuffed. A dip in acetone or some carb cleaner helps followed by a scuff with some 80 grit paper. Don't go overboard with the sanding, just a light scuff.
                  Tyler Garrard
                  NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                  T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                  Comment

                  • iamandrew
                    Senior Member
                    • Jul 2010
                    • 577

                    #10
                    hmm allright,
                    Well ive got some acetone to clean it etc.
                    anyone tryed this http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...%5FRed%5F.html ?
                    I might give the 648 a go, and order the dodgy hobbyking stuff and compare it.

                    Comment

                    • martin
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Aug 2010
                      • 2887

                      #11
                      Best stuff for cleaning to then use Loctite bonding products is Loctite 7061 Super Clean, Thats what this stuff is intended for.

                      Comment

                      • Fluid
                        Fast and Furious
                        • Apr 2007
                        • 8012

                        #12
                        For bonding into the stub shaft with Loctite, sanding the cable is definately not required. These products are designed to bond very smooth surfaces together, sanding only increases the gap and reduces the contact areas of the two surfaces.

                        I could not find "Super Clean 7061" on the Henkel website, no idea what it is. Surface prep products like 7471 and 7649 substantially reduce the strength of the Loctite bond with metal. Loctite 603 is oil tolerant making it the "best" product for the cable end going into the coupler.



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                        ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for

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                        • graill
                          Retired
                          • Oct 2008
                          • 389

                          #13
                          I use 648 for the main joining, wick away a bit and let dry. i then use 603 or LV core plug sealant on the exposed wrap about a half inch up and top off where the flex exits. Keeps the oil from migrating into the shaft and wrap for the less oil resistant but stronger 648.

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                          • martin
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Aug 2010
                            • 2887

                            #14
                            Fluid its also known as Loctite 7063, i believe they changed the number from 7061 or vice versa. The one i have is 7061 but ive had that for a few years now. Martin.

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                            • LarrysDrifter
                              Big Booty Daddy
                              • May 2010
                              • 3278

                              #15
                              I know Loctite 603 does have an expiration date. Ive had a joint fail using out of date stuff. Could have been user error, but I replaced the old with new and have had no problems. Its worth keeping an eye on the expiration date to be cautious.

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