Which Gas Sport Hydro to convert to FE?

[Shooter]

I think that Aeromarine makes a Miller American hydro hull that might work for you. Not sure of the exact size, but I remember it being a larger scale. Very sleek and low to the water. Someone built one recently for FE and it worked quite well. It's worth a look at least.

[MarkF]

The first 2 years I had the hull it had a Neu 2230 1y motor in it. Low 70s on 10s and 80s on 12s. It was fast and easy to drive but I dont think it would compete against todays whip or Insanes gen 4 hydro. The little screammer was just for testing the motor only. If this build is for you to have fun only then I wouldn't worry about what the other boats can do. It is the easiest boat to convert that I can see.

Mark

[Raydee]

Mark that is exactly where I am right now. I am just looking to build a large Sport boat that was like my gassers. I would be more than happy with a 44" Hydro that will run in the 60's and be reliable. I don't want to build one that is constanly flying off the water and costing me in repairs. I would like to run 12s since I already have a bunch of 6s packs, I am not real sure on the motor yet but I do have one of the Castle 2028 motors already. That motor may be a better 10s motor. The hardest part is finding a hull that looks good and is easy to get water tight. I hear that Aeromarine has changed the way they are making hulls now and claims that they are much stronger. The old shoebox design that they had in the past wasn't that great and I had to reseal their boats in the past. I see that the Thunderbolt looks like I could make a sub hatch with no problems, that is as long as I can keep the motor and cells low enough in the hull.

[Fluid]

The Miller hull has lots of problems. It is very difficult to tape up, it would require a lot of work to make it watertight. It is rather tight inside, a sub hatch is probably not possible. Too, nitro hydros are designed to carry less weight and can be difficult to get running really well with heavy 10S2P FE setups - as most who have tried them have found. Not impossible of course, but more of a challenge.

The gas hydros OTOH are larger inside for easier installation, some have hatches that are far easier to tape up, they are wider for better stability, and they are designed to carry more weight than the nitro 1/8ths are. All these advantages make the gas boat hulls more suitable for a sport T hydro.

There are several wood Whiplashs running FE here in Texas, but they required re-working the hull to get everything to fit. I have not seen a 'glass Whip in FE. Actually, a better hull choice is the Backlash anyway, Brian's "second Generation" Whiplash. Most gas racers see it as a superior race boat.

It is easy to close off a single hole in a hatch, like the one in the Stryker II. A piece of fiberglass plate, a few strips of glass tape and a few ounces of epoxy....voila, no more hole.

[Make-a-Wake]

Here's a vid of Bill's Miller hydro that Shooter may have been referring to...............

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRmowNJ1GW0&feature=channel_video_title

[Raydee]

Bill's boat looks pretty good on the water. Looks like it runs a bit wet though.

[Raydee]

Well I got a Speedfreek on the way. Now I have to decide if I want to run a heavier 12s setup or a lighter 8s setup. What target RPM should I shoot for to get the boat in the 60's and still get some run time out of it?

[Fluid]

Good hull choice I think. How much run time do you want? My heavy 41" Stryker cat (20#) with Lehner 3060, 10S2P and an x465 runs mid-60s in race water and uses about 4500-5000 mAh in a one-mile race, figure just under two minutes with mill. A hydro would draw a lot less amps. I'd go 10S to extend run time over 8S, 12S limits controller choices a bit. A motor with 700-800 Kv would be perfect for 10S. One of our club members has a 10S mono with a Castle 2028 (780Kv), and it is impressive. On 12S it would be too much, the rpm limit is 30,000.

Do you have 4S packs too? 4S + 6S = 10S.



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[marko500]

Well I got a Speedfreek on the way. Now I have to decide if I want to run a heavier 12s setup or a lighter 8s setup. What target RPM should I shoot for to get the boat in the 60's and still get some run time out of it?

Can't wait to see this one run.

Mark

[MarkF]

I agree on the 2028 motor on 10s.

Mark

[Raydee]

I was pretty amazed to see the speed and run time that Antron was getting out of his Thunderbolt with a 750kv motor and 8s. I am not sure if his specs are right but he says it is only pulling 90 amp and he is getting 3.5 minutes of run time on 8s1p. It may not be a speed demon but it looked good enough to have a fun time on the water. I was thinking about trying the new Fightercat esc in this hull. I may have to try both the lighter 8s setup and then step up to the 10s setup for more speed. Mark if you get a chance let me know what hardware you went with on your Speedfreek. Any pics of your turn fin would be great. I am also curious to see if you offset your motor and driveline in your hull?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQjEvDyicUo

[Fluid]

Post #2 shows the SpeedMaster hardware used, although verbal confirmation would be good. No turn fin on a SAW boat.



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[Raydee]

I think I saw a vid of Mark running his boat oval too. I am guessing I should stick with the 1/4" drive cable with the 3/16" stepdown at the stub?

[properchopper]

I think I saw a vid of Mark running his boat oval too. I am guessing I should stick with the 1/4" drive cable with the 3/16" stepdown at the stub?

Not for the faint of heart !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBTt_NZpyfs&NR=1

[Raydee]

Ok now for the great debate....should I run my 46 ounce Castle 2028 motor on 10s or will a Neu 2215 at 24 ounces be the better motor? I am thinking the lighter motor on 10s might help keep the weight down a little in the hull but at the same time I don't want to under motor this hull. What do you guys think?