Hk Genesis running warm need help.

[rdmanone]

Hello all. I am a new member to this forum. Thanks for having me. I am new into boats and just got my first, HK Genesis. I have been doing a lot of reading on this forum and when I got the boat in I did the 10 point inspection. I took it apart and put blue thread lock on everything, greased the shaft and inspected the waterlines to make sure they were free of any debris. I also put in the 180amp esc just because of the stories about it being a better one for the boat. Today I ran it for the 1st time faster than I expected, just guessing about 40 to 45 mph. I am using two 2 cell turnigy 30-40c pack in series. The boat was porpoising not only up and down but side to side also. After about 2 minutes of running to boat slowed to about 1/2 throttle. Got it back and The motor was hot, not sure how hot but I could only hold my fingers on it for about ten seconds and had to remove them. So it seemed to hot to me. The speed control was not to bad really so not sure why it slowed down. While running the boat I could see that the water was coming out out of the pee hole fine. Maybe it's not enough? Don't know. The pick up is on the rudder and one line goes into the esc then into the motor then into the block the the motor bolts to then out the side. Do you think I may need to put another pick on the boat to separate some of the work load? One more thing, the batteries were not hot at all. If I were over amping the thing wouldn't the batteries be hot also? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Mick.

[Fluid]

First, welcome aboard!

What is the capacity of the packs you were running? How much of a charge did you put back into them after the run? That will help to estimate the amp draw. The boat is designed for 3S but with the T180 will run on 4S, but you usually have to change to a smaller prop.

The hot motor only is puzzling, what prop were you running? Lots of on-off throttle or WOT the whole time? is it the original motor? You may need some additional cooling, but since the boat came in a 1/2 speed it may be the ESC low voltage cutoff or the motor being damaged....probably the former but I am not very familiar with the T180 controller. Others more familiar with the Genesis can pipe in.


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[video200]

if that is the original motor you can prop down or change motor.
the original motor is way to small for that hull.
just my €0.2

[Rumdog]

Do you have the programming box fror the esc?
Make sure you set it to the proper setting for the voltage you are running.
A lot of people (not me) have had issue with this esc prematurely hitting the low voltage cutoff.
Try running the LVC at a lower voltage.

I have also heard that the stock motor in your boat is of poor quality.
I'd swap it out if possible.

[b.mcdaniel.2009]

I agree with rumdog....Sounds like you hit Lipo Cut-Off...... hince the 1/2 throttle, and get rid of that FSD motor....Its so small for that hull period. Post a pic where you have your lipo's placed.

[rdmanone]

I am using 5200 mah packs. Boat came in at 3.8 volts per cell left and only put 1500 back into it. Only ran for about 2 minutes. Stock motor 2075 kv and stock prop, it's platic and says 38 on it. Darn thing broke on my 3rd run. I was on and off the throttle. When I got it up to full speed it porpoised and I would slow down so I was never on full throttle for more than 6 to 8 seconds.

[rdmanone]

Here is the battery placement. I noticed when I was taking everything apart I moved the strut angle up a little trying to take out the shaft, (was not sure which direction it came out). So that might have caused it to porpoise. I moved it back down a little.
Not sure how to enter my pic. Says enter the URL of you image and has the http: symple, not sure what to do with that.

[video200]

did you change the steering rodd ? that is known to be a weak spot and make it porpoise. it have helped people to swap it for a 4-40 rodd

[rdmanone]

No its the stock rodd. I guess the flex it what will cause this?

[video200]

yes. mine was bouncing all over the place til i replaced the rodd with a 4-40 rodd.

[rdmanone]

Thanks, I'll get one. Can you help with the pic upload. I clicked on insert image just above but have never run into the URL that it wants.

[rdmanone]

Here is the pic.

[Fluid]

The amp draw is low, and since the packs only took 1500 mAh they shouldn't be hot. That's an average of just 45 amps, perfectly reasonable for part throttle with lots of acceleration. I suspect the motor quality on 4S is the culprit for high heat. A good upgrade for 4S is a Leopard 4074/1774, that will spin a big enough prop to get reasonable performance, but that is a big boat for just 4S.

As stated in my first post and confirmed by others, the low voltage cutoff is likely the reason for the short run time.


To post pics, do this. First load the photo onto your hard drive. Go to http://www.tinypic.com and click on Browse. Find the picture on your hard drive and click OPEN. Next, click on UPLOAD NOW!. Type in the code and click UPLOAD NOW!. Click on the window underneath IMG Code for Forums & Message Boards.

Now go to your post and under your text right click Paste. This will put the photo into your post. Simple once you do it a couple times.



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[dano1]

move those batterys back , i ran the stock motor with the 180 amp esc and got 53mph out of it with 5000 2cell packs in series for 4, never had a porpousing problem with the stock set up and still running it, ran a x642 and x640 prop, ran like a champ

[rdmanone]

What prop should I use the the Leopard 1774? Thanks.