1/16th scale racing In Seattle

[JimClark]

I quit running with ERCU in the middle of the season last year and sold my boat. I decided I wanted to try to see if anyone would be interested in building and racing a spec 1/16th scale hydro. Gary Finlay very graciously donated a hull for testing and I began gathering gear to test different setups. The goal was to make a spec scale boat that was affordable would run aprox 35 mph and most of all fun to race. Here is what I have so far and I want to see if there are others who might be interested in joining in and having fun.

The boats would be 1/16th scale boats scratch built from Gary Finlay plans or possibly from laser cut kits.

Motor would be a Ammo 28-45-3600kV Brushless In-Runner Electric Motor http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...9&I=LXLWY5&P=K

Any Brushless ESC I am thinking a 70 to 80 amp so it is bullet proof but a 40 amp probably would also work

The strut would be mounted on the transom and you could use a solid shaft, wiredrive or flex shaft

Batteries would be a single 2S 2500 to 3000 20 lipo


A complete setup for a beginner who has nothing would be in the price range of 600 to 700 dollars
The Batteries would be under $50.00 each and you could get by on most likely two for a full days racing.
We like to have a series of races probably on Saturdays and would run the races at Bellevue Pond and hopefully the RC pond that will be at the new South Lake Union Park.


So far those who have expressed interest are myself, Monte Steere, David Gardner, John Burkey and Jim Lilly

If you are interested or would like more info please email or give me a call

Jim Clark

[sjslhill]

Nice effort Jim.....if I was there you could have counted on me.

[Darin Jordan]

OK Jim... In an effort to temp you guys to allow pickle-forks... I got my Finlay Atlas Sprint hull, which I've converted to a 1982 Obero style hull, down off the shelf last night, and am just about finished installing a turn-fin mount on the left side.

I'm going to order the Ammo motor (Steven, do you carry these??) and get the hull ready to do some testing...

If you guys are discussing this and could let me know what you might require for a turn fin (I'm assuming you'll limit the size...), please let me know...

The only downfall I see to me using this hull is that I set it up to turn right, so the rudder is on the left side and I'm not really sure I want to make the effort to move it to the right... Should still work fin, just not optimum in my opinion...

Also, do you have an idea of which prop you guys are going to use?? I'm assuming something like an X430R??? Based on past experience, these Finlay hulls don't really work that great with anything much over an X432 or MAYBE an X435... But I don't think either of those is available in a Right-Hand prop...

[JimClark]

OK Jim... In an effort to temp you guys to allow pickle-forks... I got my Finlay Atlas Sprint hull, which I've converted to a 1982 Obero style hull, down off the shelf last night, and am just about finished installing a turn-fin mount on the left side.

I'm going to order the Ammo motor (Steven, do you carry these??) and get the hull ready to do some testing...

If you guys are discussing this and could let me know what you might require for a turn fin (I'm assuming you'll limit the size...), please let me know...

The only downfall I see to me using this hull is that I set it up to turn right, so the rudder is on the left side and I'm not really sure I want to make the effort to move it to the right... Should still work fin, just not optimum in my opinion...

Also, do you have an idea of which prop you guys are going to use?? I'm assuming something like an X430R??? Based on past experience, these Finlay hulls don't really work that great with anything much over an X432 or MAYBE an X435... But I don't think either of those is available in a Right-Hand prop...

Darin the motors are available at tower hobbies but it would be great if Steve would carry them and hopefully a ESC. The prop is the 430R. I will look forward to side by side testing I have two batteries so we could run each run the same Batteries. We would have to figure out the skid fin issue.

Jim

[JimClark]

Thanks Steve

Why not move your business to Seattle:D :D :D

Nice effort Jim.....if I was there you could have counted on me.

[Darin Jordan]

I have two batteries so we could run each run the same Batteries. We would have to figure out the skid fin issue.

Jim

I also have a couple of 2S 3300 Poly RC 20C packs that would be close...

I'll just keep the skid-fin conservative and we'll see how it goes... I personally think that, to have good racing, you need to have drivable boats... If this means using a little more fin than might be "scale", then so-be-it... but I'll start out with something acceptable...

[JimClark]

The one problem I see with boats whit huge skid fins is that it becomes almost like slot cars.

Jim

[Darin Jordan]

The one problem I see with boats whit huge skid fins is that it becomes almost like slot cars.

Jim

I agree... My N2-Sport boat from the Nats was almost undrivable at first... I cut down the skidfin to almost half the area it originally was and it became a new boat...

We just need to have enough to allow them to get through the corners... We'll test things and find out what will work side-by-side...

[JimClark]

Darin one problem is speed controls. I have a Hacker 70 and it works great but I am sure it is overkill. But with the number of fried ESC's I have seen in ercu I would rather have the esc overkill than be blowing them up. What do you think of something like this on a 40 amp esc?

[Darin Jordan]

What do you think of something like this on a 40 amp esc?

I think that there are plenty of 80 to 100amp escs out there that are not too expensive and would be very reliable... I think it would work on a 40-amp... maybe even a stock SV27 ESC, which would be REALLY cheap, is rated to 45 or 55amps.. and is already made to go in a marine environment...

I think it's taking things a little TOO far if you spec an ESC... Many out there, at least NAMBA types anyhow, have 80-amp Barracudas laying around, or can get them reasonably... I'd just spec the motor and leave the ESC up to the builder... especially if you are spec'ing a prop... you won't be able to use any extra capacity in that case...

I was planning on using a Barracuda 80, which would work WITHOUT having to water-cool it in this application and is nice and compact in size... I will still use the water cooling, but it wouldn't be necessary for sprint races...

I'd say run what you brung for awhile and see what people come up with... cheap alternatives will no doubt be found... especially with you "tight-a$$'d" scale guys... :p (Kidding, of course!!)

[JimClark]

No I didn't want to spec an esc just wanted to come up with recommendations as to what would work reliably. I was just looking to spec the 1/16th scale, the motor and possibly a mah for the battery but I don't think that matters.

Jim

[Darin Jordan]

I've never tried anything below an 80-amp Barracuda, other than the SV27 ESC... which WOULD be a viable option, and is really cheap... water proof, and ready to plug in... (you'd have to replace the 4mm motor contacts with 3.5's...)... Would be interesting to see how that one would work...

[sjslhill]

1/16 scale hydros would run great on a simple 05 car motor and 2 A123 cells. Talk about a great class!

[JimClark]

only 2 A123's i need to look into this. Only problem of that is more than a few would have to upgrading to different chargers. Still worth looking into

1/16 scale hydros would run great on a simple 05 car motor and 2 A123 cells. Talk about a great class!

[Darin Jordan]

only 2 A123's i need to look into this. Only problem of that is more than a few would have to upgrading to different chargers. Still worth looking into

What is the weight of two A123s??