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Setup for the NTN-600 mono, help!
I need your advice to choose the best setup for this hull, lenght is 60cm/24"
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I had ul1 power with a x440/2 in my h&m1 mono which was about 23" and it was a rocket, video in my signature.
Ammo 36-50 2300kv on a x437 - x440 range of props (4s)
Ammo 36-56 2600kv (x440 3s sport) or (x437 4s saw)
Feigao 540 13L 4s
SV27R spec power -
I have one on these hulls as RTR with upgraded Seaking90 ESC. This is one tough boat to set up. Look at the rudder angle on the back..I can not understand this slant and neither can Properchopper or Mark F. I am running two 3s, 2250 Turnigy LiPo pacs as far back as I can, one on either side. (they are actually against the transom) It still seems to run wet. Also, I really had to cut down the steering throw. It does 360 spins during high spin turns if you go to tight. Another thing I did was radially reduce the prop size. The brass prop that came with it had WAY too much torque roll.
This boat is a definite works in progress. I am anxious to see how you progress..............Comment
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Reading the reviews of the boat seem like most people are also having problems getting the cg just right. Maybe this boat would be better with a high kv motor with low torque and plastic prop. 1/8 drive maybe better as well. Maybe a 380 motor like a 380 9xl on 3s (3s 3300mah 25c) with a y534 and maybe put a few grams of self-stick lead under the transom standoff. Maybe a starting place.Comment
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I would steer well clear of this boat, it looks real nice but as said above it is so hard to keep straight and with a 3s in it, it seems too heavy. I got that annoyed with mine I sold it. I was quite angry in the end!Comment
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Where do you think the cg should be? I have lots of motors, batteries and props so testing will not be a problem but none of my combinations have come close yet. I will post a video in a few days. Mark F, Tony and I will be running on my lake at the end of the week, Ca rain permitting.
The boat really does LOOK great but getting it dialed in is a real challenge. However, once it is done, it would be very nice info to share with the many frustrated owners.Comment
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Where are they measuring the length from? It says 675mm on hobbycity website, which would be 26.5", but I don't know where they are getting that number from if it includes hardware and that stepoff on the transom. I would measure from the very front tip of the boat to the transom not including the standoff and hardware then taking that the number x by .28 then take that measurement and measure forward from the transom. The OP said 24" so 24 x .28 = 6 3/4" from the transom forward.Comment
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The cog should be 30% of the bottom hull lenght. What do you think about that setup: 4S battery, NEU 1512 2,5D 2050kV motor and Hobbywing Seaking 120A esc?Comment
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28-30% is general, but since the boat already seems to be running wet I would push it the cg aft and use the 28%. 30% would be 7.2", 28% would be 6 3/4" from transom forward using 24" lenght as my guidline. I think 4s is gonna be too heavy and neu to much torque. If I was setting it up I would aim for a 3s setup and high kv to avoid extra pack weight and torque roll. That's just me. I don't have the boat in front of me though and never seen one run but if they run as wet as everyone says I would try what I mentioned. This isn't gonna be a speed demon so I like the 380 9xl I mentioned before or a leopard 28 series would be even better just to get the boat to run some what decent.Comment
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Thanks and that sounds about right to me. I attached a picture of the boat with the CG marked exactly 6 3/4th inch from the tansom. Note that to balance it EXACTLY AT THIS POINT, I have two 3S 2250 Turnigy lipos near the stern. With the configuration shown I balance at this point.
You can also see my carbon prop selection and the GPS I will be mounting on the stern to monitor performance as it gets dialed in.
I have some Turnigy outrunners coming in at high KV that I want to try into it. They should be here any day now.Comment
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Here's a video of the NTN-400 and it runs very wet like the larger verison. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=uI-8AptAmAw, doesn't look very good on water at all.Comment
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Thanks for the link. So, they had to add 2.5 0z of lead total to the stern of the If we scale up to the 600 that would amount to about 4 oz of lead to the back of the hull. The extra LiPo pac weighs 6.8 oz. So, adding the Garmin GPS on the stern and an ounce or two of weight should be in the ballpark.
Ironically I bougt this boat while I was visiting their actual factory in China and the "special factory-direct price to me" was over $200. I noted when you get on the Hobby King web site and sign it the price is $180! Enjoy the pics.......Last edited by questtek; 12-19-2010, 12:46 AM.Comment
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I attached some pics of the three boats I have been testing. My personal opinion is that the Delta Force Stinger ranks #1. Again, in my opinion it has the very best handling charasteristics and top speed of 45 MPH with the motor mods I did. Second place for me goes to the Nighthawk. Handles pretty good and top speed obtained was 42 MPH. Like suspenders holding up the rear.....the NTN-600 is a distant third at this point. I am still making mods and have not quite given up just yet but for a RTR it needs a bit of work. I recommend anyone interested in this boat heed the cautions on the video done by HobbyKing themselves!
Part of the fun of FE is learning how to make things run better while minimizing the $$$'s that wind up at the bottom of the lake. Included in this learning curve is also trying to get a boat to work that really does not!Comment
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Just received a PM with some excellent suggestions based on lots of experimentation. I thought I would include it here with my response............
The PM to me...........Thanks for pictures. I know what your saying. I tried every trick in the book and one extra; I ran 1 running strake or i should say extended the outer strake to transom and made existing strakes sharp by adding basswood to get a sharp strake as the original strakes were pretty rounded, but didn't workout. I moved motor toward the rear to a distance of 4" and having twin lipos on each side of motor with CG at 30% and moved lipos forward but no such luck. Ok, in all honsty by looking at the pictures lined up; it gave me a thought; why not cut the whole rear end of 600 off to look like the other 2 and go from there. I don't expect you to do that but for me, i would do it in a minute. Also, i would go surface drive with transom parallel to keel on .130 cable and have strut extend 3" with rudder to the right 1 1/2" and have front edge of rudder parallel to dog drive, but that is me. I have had best results with that. I have a No Step 1 with no trim tabs with a Feigao 11s at 3583 kv on 2s and a Octura 632 cut down to 630 done by me and extended the 1 strake it has to transom and turns on a dime but i put another layer of fiberglass just for strenght. I make my own struts and rudders and use only .130 cable . I'm long winded but here's apoint many miss and that is boats of today are real light and lipos are light and i see or read people add weight for blowover or move CG forward. The power of today's bl systems can handle the oldtime weighter boats and run like a dream. I won't post any more but will read. Have a good day! End of the PM to me.
MY RESPONSE: I LOVED your input and wished you posted it on the thread. You tried some absolutely great things and saved me lots and lots of work. Some boats just are not worth the effort to try to dial in and this NTN-600 falls into this category for me. I think I will GIFT it! Please pipe in to the threads because your experimentation and knowledge is greatly appreciated. Best, JoeComment
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