boat setup help apparition
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I am running a kershaw designs 2340kv motor on 4s in my apparition and recently gps'd at 55.1mph with m445 prop and Turnigy 180. Temps have been great, from 100-120 degrees. Fightercat is absolutely right about treating the hull while it is new. The wood will get soaked and separate from the hull. Also, do the mod that tiqueman recommended. I switched to .150 thinking that the slight difference in size from 4mm would be negligible.....wrong. After three minutes, the inside is soaked due to the slightly smaller .150 flex in a 4mm tube. I will be switching to .250 brass next.Comment
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I am running a kershaw designs 2340kv motor on 4s in my apparition and recently gps'd at 55.1mph with m445 prop and Turnigy 180. Temps have been great, from 100-120 degrees. Fightercat is absolutely right about treating the hull while it is new. The wood will get soaked and separate from the hull. Also, do the mod that tiqueman recommended. I switched to .150 thinking that the slight difference in size from 4mm would be negligible.....wrong. After three minutes, the inside is soaked due to the slightly smaller .150 flex in a 4mm tube. I will be switching to .250 brass next.FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.Comment
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Thanks for the tips. Do you think the stock 4mm shaft is strong enough for the setup I am running. I have already switched to the .150 with 3/16" shaft, but I now get lots of water in the hull. Left a small gap at the strut to allow for flex shortening. I'm thinking of either re-installing the 4mm setup or replacing and reglassing the proper brass tubing for .150. Unless anyone can make a 4mm flex with 3/16 prop shaft. Or......maybe that last one was just a silly question.Comment
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Thanks for the tips. Do you think the stock 4mm shaft is strong enough for the setup I am running. I have already switched to the .150 with 3/16" shaft, but I now get lots of water in the hull. Left a small gap at the strut to allow for flex shortening. I'm thinking of either re-installing the 4mm setup or replacing and reglassing the proper brass tubing for .150. Unless anyone can make a 4mm flex with 3/16 prop shaft. Or......maybe that last one was just a silly question.
BTW, 4mm is bigger than .150, by .007". They are basically interchangeable.FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.Comment
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Did you get a lot of water in the hull with the 4mm setup? When I switched to .150 thinking that the size difference was negligible, I started getting lots of water. Bath tested and cannot find any other leaks. Put shrink tubing over the strut/tube joint and silicone tubing over the flex by the coupler.Comment
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Did you get a lot of water in the hull with the 4mm setup? When I switched to .150 thinking that the size difference was negligible, I started getting lots of water. Bath tested and cannot find any other leaks. Put shrink tubing over the strut/tube joint and silicone tubing over the flex by the coupler.
It has to do with the teflon seal at the bottom. If your washer is bigger than the strut, it will build up water pressure in the brass tube and leak. If the prop dog is bigger than the strut, it will do the same.
The key is to be certain the prop dog will be tight against the strut bushing almost compressing the teflon during run. With a 1pc cable, it will tighten up and shrink a bit. But, with the 2 piece, the cable doesn't pull the prop shaft, so the prop dog needs to be snug against the strut bushing. I do this by tightening the prop nut in very small increments until the gap is gone, but the shaft still spins.
Also, if the brass and strut are different sizes, the water will pressurize the tube at the bottom as well. If you're using a different strut with the stock tube, this might happen.
Post a photo of the struts setup from the side when you get a chance.FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.Comment
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Actually the water leak doesn't have to do with the cable/brass size. I use 078 wires in the 6mm tubes and don't have any leaks. Hugh air gaps there.
It has to do with the teflon seal at the bottom. If your washer is bigger than the strut, it will build up water pressure in the brass tube and leak. If the prop dog is bigger than the strut, it will do the same.
The key is to be certain the prop dog will be tight against the strut bushing almost compressing the teflon during run. With a 1pc cable, it will tighten up and shrink a bit. But, with the 2 piece, the cable doesn't pull the prop shaft, so the prop dog needs to be snug against the strut bushing. I do this by tightening the prop nut in very small increments until the gap is gone, but the shaft still spins.
Also, if the brass and strut are different sizes, the water will pressurize the tube at the bottom as well. If you're using a different strut with the stock tube, this might happen.
Post a photo of the struts setup from the side when you get a chance.Comment
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Actually the water leak doesn't have to do with the cable/brass size. I use 078 wires in the 6mm tubes and don't have any leaks. Hugh air gaps there.
It has to do with the teflon seal at the bottom. If your washer is bigger than the strut, it will build up water pressure in the brass tube and leak. If the prop dog is bigger than the strut, it will do the same.
The key is to be certain the prop dog will be tight against the strut bushing almost compressing the teflon during run. With a 1pc cable, it will tighten up and shrink a bit. But, with the 2 piece, the cable doesn't pull the prop shaft, so the prop dog needs to be snug against the strut bushing. I do this by tightening the prop nut in very small increments until the gap is gone, but the shaft still spins.
Also, if the brass and strut are different sizes, the water will pressurize the tube at the bottom as well. If you're using a different strut with the stock tube, this might happen.
Post a photo of the struts setup from the side when you get a chance.Attached FilesComment
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OK, check area #1 under the heat shrink. If the brass isn't really snug into the strut, use some silicone to fill the gap and seal.
Area #2 should be snug, no air gap but still spin freely.
OPTIONALLY if still leaking you can increase the air gap #2 to 1mm and epoxy the cable into the hard prop shaft to make it a single cable/shaft setup. Then it will pull the hard shaft taught.
=)Attached FilesFighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.Comment
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