Looks like the HYDRA ICE is finally coming.

[mm123521]

Himalaya:

I got an Ice 160 Hv also.
I need to water cool mine also.
Do you have any pictures?
How did you water cool yours?
Does it work ok?

Mine will drive a Leopard 5692 motor @ 110 amps.

Thanks!1
Mark

[FighterCat57]

Only after running/abusing them in SAW boats - knock wood. Some burned down during SAW runs, others lasted a few months after then let go. But I don't make the obvious mistakes as are reported here on an almost daily basis by those who seem to make a hobby of burn up Hydras. Alan highlights one of them above.

I always run receiver packs.
I never run at the maximum recommended voltage.
I always use short power wires or add caps.
I never run 1P except in spec setups.
I always run the newest firmware.
I never run inappropriate timing advance settings.
I always run with the current limiter enabled.
I never run so long that the ESC overheats.

Adhering to the above limits has helped me preserve my Hydras (6 in total). I do know that a bad one will come along, I just haven't had one....yet.



.

Funny, I've yet to have a Hydra burn up as well. Knock on water.

Hydra ICE HV FTW.

[Rumdog]

^Same here^

[GeoVW72]

Actually most of the info that I have come across points to a HYDRA XL and HYDRA XL HV

Haven't come across any specs, but if their taking the Mamba XL 1/5 that is meant to drive and electronically brake a 30lbs 1/5 scale 5t on 8-10s it should be no slouch.

pricing is $399 retail, at least is is less that an 240hv

[FighterCat57]

Actually most of the info that I have come across points to a HYDRA XL and HYDRA XL HV

Haven't come across any specs, but if their taking the Mamba XL 1/5 that is meant to drive and electronically brake a 30lbs 1/5 scale 5t on 8-10s it should be no slouch.

pricing is $399 retail, at least is is less that an 240hv

That's cheap, if you've smoked a generic HV, it's about the same.. with warranty. Tommy boy!

[lectriglide]

Only after running/abusing them in SAW boats - knock wood. Some burned down during SAW runs, others lasted a few months after then let go. But I don't make the obvious mistakes as are reported here on an almost daily basis by those who seem to make a hobby of burn up Hydras. Alan highlights one of them above.

I always run receiver packs.
I never run at the maximum recommended voltage.
I always use short power wires or add caps.
I never run 1P except in spec setups.
I always run the newest firmware.
I never run inappropriate timing advance settings.
I always run with the current limiter enabled.
I never run so long that the ESC overheats.

Adhering to the above limits has helped me preserve my Hydras (6 in total). I do know that a bad one will come along, I just haven't had one....yet.



.

Soooo, the age old saying is true....

[detox]

Castle also recommends running no less than 8500mah lipo capacity. That is alot of weight.

http://www.castlecreations.com/support/documents/neumotors-castle_boat_apps.pdf

[Fluid]

That is alot of weight.

Yes, thank goodness. I have to add lead weight to most all of my Neu-powered boats anyway to keep them on the water, and that's with nitro layups. Regardless of the ESC, the ripple currents caused by inadequate batteries cause them major problems. Adding more caps can help, that's one reason why ETTI uses ten caps in their cap bank.

The table was compiled last year by Brian Buaas for Castle based on his experiences. The setups shown in that table for the competition setups can draw near 200 amps continuous with spikes up to near 300 amps. 8500 mAh 30C packs have a safe discharge of around 190 amps using the 75% rule. So even those are on the edge for high amp setups - 10,000 mAh is better.


.

[BakedMopar]

Castle also recommends running no less than 8500mah lipo capacity. That is alot of weight.
http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo..._boat_apps.pdf

Yep and it will keep your pockets heavier too.

[GeoVW72]

Rccaraction did an interview on the 5b system, you can see the hydra xls on the table behind the truck.

Youtube