R.E.K. Lower Unit

[rek]

To my fellow racers,
I had just posted this question to a few directly, also posted on several boards. I would like to hear from the masses.

Richard Konnen here of REK. After 5 plus years it is time for a new version of lower unit. So I am cutting new molds and would appreciate some feed back of what you think would be useful on changes. Currently I am raising and lengthening the cavitation plate a little over 6mm. I am hoping to come out with my own prop shaft that will be longer on the shaft for thicker hub props. Adding a molded-in water pickup. Going to a motor adapter that is only .18 thick to lower motor. Thinned down the skeg and made the leading edge a little sharper. I am also thinking of offering it to be used with an OS prop shaft. Working on a new material also, lighter and stiffer, only testing will tell on the material. I have to mix the combination to get what I want. One last thing so far, working on motor that would not need a motor coupler. Hope to get it certified as spec.
Best regards,
Richard

[bigwaveohs]

- provide a better seat for the stub shaft; we had to make a nylon spacer for stub shaft to adjust the cable end-float as well as give a solid seating surface; the casting was too uneven where the stub shaft screws in.
- space for larger prop would be nice
- keep overall length the same; we are running a P-spec VS-1 and haven't had cable problems
- lubrication hasn't been a problem as we always teardown and inspect after 4 heats; on my K&B 3.5 nitro I drilled a hole into the side through one side of the stuffing tube and used a syringe to inject a bit of Prather grease...could you put a lube hole in the side about midway down the lower?

JMHO

[daveives]

Recommendations for REK

Richard: You should have mounting holes that fit both the HB3650 and the Turginy 4030-1100 outrunner motors. Check out these threads to see why.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ad.php?t=14754
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ad.php?t=14579

Also, I currently have running REK lower units without a coupler and without a spacer. They cost extra and are unnecessary. I drill out the end of the motor shaft, stick a cable in, then using a highly loaded arbor and a heavy hammer hit turn the motor shaft end and inserted cable into an oblong cross section. I then form the prop end of the cable into a square. This may be crude, but it works. It would be better to braze the cable into the motor shaft, but you would need to disassemble the motor to do this (expensive labor, unless done by motor manufacturer.) Or the motor manufacturer could put a square hole in the motor shaft. Like others on this web site, I now prefer a completely open junction between the cable and motor shaft, rather than trying to seal it and corroding more than an open junction.

Your lower units rock!