Big mistake today

[forescott]

I guess you cant re-solder different wires from inside the can then!

[Fluid]

The wires which stick out of the can are the ends of each winding on the stator - they are part of the motor's internal wiring. You cannot "replace" them without completely rewinding the motor. This is also why they are coated - all electric motor windings are coated to prevent shorts. The motor winders have an apparatus to remove the coatings, usually a solder dip or induction device.

Shortening the wire ends will do nothing to the motor Kv - that is determined by the motor internal windings.


.

[LuckyDuc]

I'm going to use a big iron tomorrow to see if I can burn through the coating. If that doesn't work I guess I'll be melting some aspirin in a spoon.

I guess the lesson here is to not trim off the factory tinned ends on the motor leads.

[ozboater]

interesting... i m about to trim down the wires on the 1518 i got on blow out... think i ll hold off now... anyone know if these wires have the same coating ??

good luck raydee, let us know what happens..

[Mel279]

a friend of mine just scrap the wire strand with a sharp knife or cutter and that what he usually do before he solder it

[Raydee]

This thread was actually started in may of last year. I ended up sending the motor to Steve Neu and he was nice enough to strip the coating off the wire and tin it for me. The motor has been run since and there are no problems with it. Any motor that has hard wire coming out of the can will most likey have this coating on it and they are a real pain to try and resolder if you cut the connectors off. Motors like the Neu/Castle 1515, 1518, 1520, 1717 that have the real soft flexible wire are fine to cut and shorten because they have normal silicone wire. I am not sure if the Leopord motor's have the same wire or not but if the wire is real stiff I wouldn't cut it.

By the way I tried using a knife to scape the wires and aslo tried the aspirin trick with no luck.

[Mel279]

how about grind it a bit since it is hard enough to scrap it, never thought it was that hard

[Raydee]

how about grind it a bit since it is hard enough to scrap it, never thought it was that hard

If you take and grind every single strand and then clean them real well it is possible to get the solder to stick. I personally spent 3 or 4 hours trying to remove all the coating on my motor and finally gave up....I do tend to give up easily though.

[AlanN]

To remove the lacquer on my UL-1 motor I removed the wire insulation, enough to separate the strands of each lead. Then sanded with some fine sandpaper EACH tiny wire. Be carefull not to sand too much. Then put on more wire insulation that was removed and solder. It's more time consuming but safer than trying to dissolve the coating.

[Ub Hauled]

I personally spent 3 or 4 hours trying to remove all the coating on my motor and finally gave up....I do tend to give up easily though.

Love your sarcasm...

[LuckyDuc]

To remove the lacquer on my UL-1 motor I removed the wire insulation, enough to separate the strands of each lead. Then sanded with some fine sandpaper EACH tiny wire. Be carefull not to sand too much. Then put on more wire insulation that was removed and solder. It's more time consuming but safer than trying to dissolve the coating.

Wow! What do you charge for that service? I've got a motor that could use some of that TLC

[bigwaveohs]

The only chemical I know that worked was Strip-X for enamel-coated wire, but I think that was finally banned by the tree-huggers years ago...maybe a caustic paint stripper would work.

[yurkanip]

Raydee.Off topic, but hopefully you can get the wire issue, figured out. I am just sitting by to see how this motor does in your pt45. I LOVE that hull, and am waiting on buying one, until I can see one run with the 1717. I have been waiting for that motor to be used in a larger hydro, for a little while now. the 1527 is a sweet motor, as you obviously know. I just can't afford to drop money on that size neu. Hence, the rediculously low prices of from the castle, blowout sale.

really looking forward to the results.

[m4a1usr]

and aslo tried the aspirin trick with no luck.

Thats probably because I forgot to follow up on the technique to be used for the aspirin method to be effective. I gave you half of the answer. Not the whole. I never did find a copy of the step by step method I got from the author, however like most of us curious, a little google'n and I found the original author from whom I got the information. So for those wanting to know here you go. Maybe we should pin this in the tech section? It does work but the key is to use an acid based solder rosin in conjunction with the aspirin tablet while heating. Sort of like soldering aluminum lipo tabs. But thats another topic.

John

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=593024&page=2

[Brushless55]

how did this hull run on that CC1717 motor?