prop shafts for .078 music wire

[Xfactor]

Naw It was my one of my failed attemps .I can telescop some brass tube but i have lead telon bearing in the strut. I just looked at some stainless shaft that I might have bored thru.I am concerned with your collet. The .05 set screws are to small and prone to strip.

[NativePaul]

Old bottle of Locktite? Oversize bore hole? It does have a limited life and while it bonds metal very well it has little strength itself so you need a tight bore for good joint, you shouldnt need to bore the stub end to end to get enough bonding area to hold it firm, I think you would need one heck of a tool to bore an accurate tight and true .078 hole 2" deep. I think my stubs are drilled less than an inch and held solely with 603, the .078 one on my 36"cat stands up to 4000W peaks on its 8s sprint setup.

[Xfactor]

Problem solved . Made my own propshaft; telescoping square and round stock with silver solder materialized into this.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Welll the easiest is KS tubing. Many were used that way when first started. Mainly for 1/8" props. Easy to ream out brass tubing for o78 but I think it is too soft of metal...it will work for some time but SS is obviuosly better and when used with brass bushings it is very low resistance.

[Jeepers]

A 0.078" wire will break on a strong 4S setup running a large prop - 50mm or larger particularly if there is a 'sharp' bend in the drive line. Maybe not right away, but eventually the wire will break and you'll lose the prop. This assumes standard hobby-grade wire - not all wire is created equal and better wire will last longer.

I ran an 0.09" wire in a very strong 4S setup with a 47mm prop and it lasted "forever". It was pretty straight though.


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How strong Jay? (I am sure it was a lot stronger than this set up below).

I am curious because a club member broke the .078 wire in his 1/10 scale hydro with an SV27 motor the drive shaft is straight turning a 45mm prop he broke it just before the motor collet.

[blackcat26]

Ive got a Elam running an Align 600xl that does around 55mph with the .078 wire. No problems at all. I like that I can buy the lengths of wire for cheap and make my own couplers.......

[Jeff Wohlt]

It is call piano or music wire much ios made by K&S...but it is not in the musical department... :)

[Xfactor]

LoL. I think the lead bearings are softer than the brass.

[Xfactor]

Gimme your procedure for proper loctiting.

[Mel279]

It is call piano or music wire much ios made by K&S...but it is not in the musical department... :)

Jeff

Is K&S wire really are piano wire? I found a website have 4.76mm K&S music wire for sale

[sundog]

My take on this is that wire drives are more efficient than flex cables (and not as efficient as a straight shaft). Where you need just a little bend to get the power to the strut is where a wire drive excels. By more efficient, I mean it has the potential to go faster with less energy than a flex drive. You have a smooth surface against a smooth surface. A flex cable is constantly churning up the grease in the stuffing tube like a grain elevator screw.

And with a wire drive, you can run in reverse with impunity. You see those mini V's and small riggers on Youtube doing the 'backing down into the water and shooting up out of the water thing'? You can't pull that off with a flex cable (not that you'd want to anyway). I am using a teflon liner lubed with a light machine oil in my H&M micro Drifter (.062 wire mated to 4mm shaft by Jeff) and the (bearing) strut has an oil lube hole in it as well. I've not had it in the water yet since finishing the project (I'm waiting on a speed control) but am antsy to give it a try.

[Steven Vaccaro]

My take on this is that wire drives are more efficient than flex cables (and not as efficient as a straight shaft). Where you need just a little bend to get the power to the strut is where a wire drive excels. By more efficient, I mean it has the potential to go faster with less energy than a flex drive. You have a smooth surface against a smooth surface. A flex cable is constantly churning up the grease in the stuffing tube like a grain elevator screw.

And with a wire drive, you can run in reverse with impunity. You see those mini V's and small riggers on Youtube doing the 'backing down into the water and shooting up out of the water thing'? You can't pull that off with a flex cable (not that you'd want to anyway). I am using a teflon liner lubed with a light machine oil in my H&M micro Drifter (.062 wire mated to 4mm shaft by Jeff) and the (bearing) strut has an oil lube hole in it as well. I've not had it in the water yet since finishing the project (I'm waiting on a speed control) but am antsy to give it a try.

The down fall is the minimum surface area for a coupler to grab onto.

[sailr]

Good point. Isn't that where Mr. Wohlt's couplers come in? I'm just starting to use wire, I have busted so many flexshafts in the last year!

The down fall is the minimum surface area for a coupler to grab onto.

[brooks93]

I think I might of been one of the first to run Jeffs wires and tortured them on boats from 32 cells or 10s lipo down to 6 cell or 2s setups.

I ran one of his .078 wires in my 1/8th scale at the 05 nats and later on 10s power and 447 3 blades and laters on 52mm 2 blade. I ran that boat for 3 years in races with heat racing trim in the high 50's to low 60's. Never once snapped that wire.

I don't remember the size but I think it was .098 that I used in my t sport that I set a straight line record with at a IMPBA saws in huntsville and that boat had a 3060/8 with a 6717/3 on it.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Flat spot on the wire is the key. Octura wire Flex Hex couplers work well but can slip under hard power...always scuff the wire good when using those...I mean a rasp file to get some gouges in the wire when using the Octura style. Still like the lighter alum ones with 4 set screws on them..balance better and seem to work well.

Seems some like them and some don't. Some have great set ups with them and some don't.

A little more time making sure those set screws hit the flat and the other set screws are putting pressure on the other side...otherwise you are just going to bore the alum on the other side...the reason for 4 set screws...never touches the alum. thread lockers is a must....Blue loctite is what I use.

Anything can break, folks. This is just another way....certainly can reduce friction and weight and wind up.