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I just talked with flight and the stand alone bleed rate is around 100mah it is not adjustable, so they suggested to do a .1 charge on the pack to bring the low cell up rather than the high one down. it appears I will need to do this for the first 5 or 6 cycles
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The 100mah charge did the trick, if im unstanding this correctly, the lower cell (#1) took about 500mah then they were equal, the #2 light went out. Ive since fully charged and discharged the pack at 1c, the #2 light comes on and off occasionally I believe this to be normal, think we got it. :DComment
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This may have been asked before, but im finding the last 700 mah or so takes as long as the first 3500 mah, will it hurt the pack if you do not completly top it off before a run?Comment
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NO... it won't hurt a thing...
The way Lipos charge is called "cc/cv"... which stands for "constant current/constant voltage"... What that means is that, for the first 90% or so of the charge cycle, the charger supplies a constant current to the cells for charging... usually 1C (so for a 5000mah pack, 5-amps...)... Once the cells have been charged to around 90% of their capacity (I think it's actually like 94% or something like that...), the charger switches to a "constant voltage" and let's the cells accept whatever current they can take...
On a 2S pack, for example, once the cell reaches 90% or so, the charger STOPS forcing current into the cells, and switches to supplying a steady (constant) voltage of 8.4V... the cells then charge at whatever current they can accept up to their capacity... From this point forward, all you are gaining is capacity, as the peak voltage has already been reached...
Once my chargers get to the point where the cells are only taking 0.2 amps or so, if it's race time, I pull the packs and go racing...
However, if you are using a balancer, I'd let the charger charge until the balancer shows the cells are in balance... but I don't use a balancer in between heats most of the time... only for the first charge and then at the end of the day...Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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One more quick note... IF you are planning on charging two packs separately and then either series or parallelling them together, then I'd HIGHLY recommend that you make sure they are at the same charge state when connecting them together... In other words, let them both charge all the way...
Like I said before, I always balance charge my 2S packs at the beginning of the day separately, then, once I parallel them together, charge them together without balancers for the remaining heats of the day. Then, at the end of the day, I separate them and balance them individually again...
To this point, I have yet to have a pack end up OUT of balance at the end of the day...Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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Thanks for the great info!Comment
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Ok while were at it, does anyone have any tips or suggestions for charging two packs with two balancers from one charger?Comment
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Last edited by Doug Smock; 09-07-2007, 10:57 PM.MODEL BOAT RACER
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Next week, I will be getting a mini Cat Racing hydro RTR....I've been looking for batteries that are supposed to fit for it and that are the right power/capacity/size. I've found a link to what I THINK is the right one?? I'm not sure as I'm new to r/c boats and lipo batteries.
R/C cars seem to be more straight forward and easier when it comes to what batteries to run....lol. Anyway, here's a link to a pack I found at Tower Hobbies, is this the right one I'll need according to what I read about the boat???? (I already have an M11 radio and Spektrum Pro System to throw in it so that's not a problem)
Also, are there any other types of things I may need for maintaining this boat? I've ordered Grim Racer grease, extra props, Dean's connectors for the speedo and batts, 3M velcro to hold them down, and hatch waterproof tape. I think that's about it. Does this cover pretty much running a boat of this quality? I want to make sure I'm doing everything right and using the right equipment and using the correct maintenance procedures to keep the boat running good for a long time. Thanks again for all the help. If there's a thread somewhere I could get these questions answered easier, could someone point me the right direction? Thanks! Here's the link to the battery (lipo) I was getting...is this the right one?
CB
"Buff"
I also found where you can have packs built, which are NiMH's also for this boat in case the lipo doesn't work out.....they're 2/3 A size IB 1400's, 8 cells, 1400 mah obviously. Here's the boat which says I think this is the batteries I'm supposed to use for it:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=mcr-hydro
The boat's requirements are this:
Requires
"(8) 2/3 A NiMH cells 1200-1500mAh NiMH in a stick style
OR 3s 11.1v 1500mAh Lipo 15c or better. The packs can not be more than 35mm wide and 25mm thick."
Am I on the right track????Last edited by Buff; 09-08-2007, 03:45 PM.Comment
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When you emailed me this morning I misread the tower add. I thought it said 18 amps continuous. Buts its 18C Continuous Discharge which will work with that boat just fine.Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!Comment
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Oh ok. Well I sent you another one asking about a Nimh battery to see if it would work too. Thanks for all the help.Comment
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Buff, what kind of battery charger are you planning on using?Comment
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Well, right now, for using Nimh's, I have two Tekin's (whom is my sponsor in offroad racing) and as backup, two LRP Pulsar 2's and one CE Pit Bull.
If I were to get the lipo packs, I was looking at either the Duratrax Ice charger or one of these two on the Thunder Power site:Comment
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