Hydra 240 connectors.
Collapse
X
-
-
Hydra 240 connection soldering
I'm very disappointed that Castle has forced me to make so much consideration to prepare their product for use... They should have connected the wires to a common bus bar at the esc instead of forcing consumers of varying skill to join the wires... Some people don't read the manual first and don't even understand that the input wires must be joined.
Anyways, here's a pic of how I'm doing it... I bought 16 gauge solid copper wire to use as a crimp.
On the battery side, near the ESC I stripped 1/2" of each wire. I crimped it with copper wire and will solder hit with a large solder gun instead of a pencil. This will allow me to run a connector on each wire and is best set up for running packs in parallel. If I run any packs in series, I will tape off a pair of connectors and keep amperage low and voltage high.
On the motor side, I left the wires equal length and stripped another 1/4" off one of each set. I bent the pair around effectively mismatching the end length (see picture). Then I crimped them in place with 16 ga. copper. This allows the tip of one 10 ga wire to go into the connector while the second wire piggy-backing on top will also be soldered to the butt of the connector to avoid the bottle neck of going to a single wire.
Hopefully it will be efficient.Attached FilesComment
-
Someone else suggested a similar way down near the connector. That way you only need one connector. I've done that and its worked well.
I like your way for running in parallel.Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!Comment
-
I agree with you 100%. I spent two weeks trying to figure trying to how put together a parallel set up that I was satisfied with on my CC240. Each time, I screwed it up, my leads got shorter.Mike Chirillo
www.capitolrcmodelboats.com
Comment
-
Then the worst part is the controller burns, you send it out and when you get a new one you have to start all over againTeam Liquid DashComment
Comment