Anyone running the new Schulze 40.160WK Future XL Controllers?

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  • RaceMechaniX
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Sep 2007
    • 2821

    #1

    Anyone running the new Schulze 40.160WK Future XL Controllers?

    Guys,

    I bought the newer style Schulze 40.160wk Future XL controller and have been having some problems. Hoping someone here might have an answer.

    Basically, the controller works on the bench, but as soon as the boat is in the water with a load on the propeller it starts momentarily and then cuts-off like it hit a current limit of low volatge cut-out. I can putt along at 2% throttle to get back to the beach but anymore and the esc quits.

    My set-up is as follow:

    Conquest 43"
    Neu 2215 1.5Y
    FP 30C 4500 mAh packs running 8S2P for a total of 9000mAh.
    Castle 6.5mm bullets all with good fits
    additional Etti 63V caps
    Props 46mm trhough 62 tested

    I have the programming link for the new Schulze and have set the following conditions:

    10 degrees of timing.
    15% initial start power (soft start)
    Auto lipoly cut-off protection

    The newer Schulze also have logging which I can post later today. In the data the battery voltage drops like crazy suggesting is has poor connection under load, but I have triple checked the connections and the packs will deliver enough to current to start a jet engine.

    The other funny thing from the data is there is no current beng shown in 8 out of the 10 logged attempts. The current simply stays at zero and does not move.

    In the 2 out of 10 files the current goes up to 5A and no higher.

    Any Ideas?

    I have sent the logged files to Schulze whom have been helpful thus far, but have not come up with a solution yet.

    Tyler
    Last edited by RaceMechaniX; 04-02-2010, 11:28 PM.
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR
  • Doby
    KANADA RULES!
    • Apr 2007
    • 7280

    #2
    I had a similar problem with mine, although its 4 years old.......what it turned out to be was that it didn't like ANY moisture on it....I ended up coating it in 30min epoxy and it has worked flawlessly to date.

    Any moisture getting on yours?
    Grand River Marine Modellers
    https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...ne%20modellers

    Comment

    • T.S.Davis
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Oct 2009
      • 6220

      #3
      Good luck. My 18.149 does the same thing. I sent it to Schulze for repair. Worked on the bench so they put fresh shrink on it and sent it back to me. Still doesn't work of course.

      I would be interested to hear of any solutions you find.
      Noisy person

      Comment

      • Xfactor
        Banned
        • Mar 2009
        • 861

        #4
        Are your timings right? How many poles is that motor?

        Comment

        • RaceMechaniX
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Sep 2007
          • 2821

          #5
          Originally posted by Doby
          I had a similar problem with mine, although its 4 years old.......what it turned out to be was that it didn't like ANY moisture on it....I ended up coating it in 30min epoxy and it has worked flawlessly to date.

          Any moisture getting on yours?
          Nope, dry as a bone. The WK models are also conformal coated, so I would expect a little spray would not cause major issue.

          TG
          Tyler Garrard
          NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
          T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

          Comment

          • RaceMechaniX
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Sep 2007
            • 2821

            #6
            Originally posted by Xfactor
            Are your timings right? How many poles is that motor?
            Timing is 10 Degrees as recommended by Neu. 4 pole. There is no setting in the online software for number of poles. Only a max RPM setting which is based on the max switching frequency divided by number of poles.

            Tyler
            Tyler Garrard
            NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
            T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

            Comment

            • m4a1usr
              Fast Electric Addict
              • Nov 2009
              • 2038

              #7
              Fist thing I would do is go thru the process of elimination just to see if its a setup/programming issue. Try setting the lipo cut off to none or specific to the number of cells you are running. Get rid of that auto lipo cut off setting. At least to see if it is the problem. If theres no change then drop the soft start. Those 2 would be possibles. If neither fixes it then time for a new strategy. Just my 2 cents.

              John
              Change is the one Constant

              Comment

              • Doby
                KANADA RULES!
                • Apr 2007
                • 7280

                #8
                Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
                Nope, dry as a bone. The WK models are also conformal coated, so I would expect a little spray would not cause major issue.

                TG
                I would have thought that as well originally............
                Grand River Marine Modellers
                https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...ne%20modellers

                Comment

                • D. Newland
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Dec 2007
                  • 1030

                  #9
                  My first thought was to shut off the Lipoly Low Voltage protection and try it, but maybe it's actually saving you from something.

                  The cells and motor are good and work in other setups, or have you tried another ESC w/this setup?

                  Did you check to make sure the full 8S 33 volts is getting to the ESC? IOW, the cells are wired correctly. Stupid question, I know...but worth asking.

                  Is anything getting hot when you putt it around back to shore?

                  If I knew my cells/motor were fine, I'd eliminate the low voltage protection and try it again. I don't know what setting Schultz has for their LVC's, but for 8S I would think you would want it at 25-26 volts.

                  Comment

                  • Xfactor
                    Banned
                    • Mar 2009
                    • 861

                    #10
                    Id do the math by hand and make sure your timings are right for your rpm range. Just a thought.

                    Comment

                    • RaceMechaniX
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Sep 2007
                      • 2821

                      #11
                      Originally posted by D. Newland
                      My first thought was to shut off the Lipoly Low Voltage protection and try it, but maybe it's actually saving you from something.

                      The cells and motor are good and work in other setups, or have you tried another ESC w/this setup?

                      Did you check to make sure the full 8S 33 volts is getting to the ESC? IOW, the cells are wired correctly. Stupid question, I know...but worth asking.

                      Is anything getting hot when you putt it around back to shore?

                      If I knew my cells/motor were fine, I'd eliminate the low voltage protection and try it again. I don't know what setting Schultz has for their LVC's, but for 8S I would think you would want it at 25-26 volts.

                      David,
                      I bench tested a HV240 and an 110HV with the same batts/motor combo and worked fine. I ended up buying the Schulze because the HV240 froze up when I tried to set the the timing and cut-off voltage through the Castle Link.

                      Yes, i did check the voltage, OK. Wiring is OK.

                      when I did run it in water everything comes back cool to the touch.

                      I'll try setting the LVC to 25V instead of the Auto detect.

                      The graph shows a 10S bench test. Note that there is no current measured in the cursor dialog box. This day was also around 86 degrees out hence the high starting temps around 50C in the file.

                      Tyler
                      Attached Files
                      Tyler Garrard
                      NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                      T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                      Comment

                      • crabstick
                        Senior Member
                        • Jul 2008
                        • 954

                        #12
                        I think i have read about this issue in the past and it was related to Timing...
                        Matt.
                        FE, Nitro and Gas racing in Auckland
                        www.rcboats.co.nz

                        Comment

                        • RaceMechaniX
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Sep 2007
                          • 2821

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Xfactor
                          Id do the math by hand and make sure your timings are right for your rpm range. Just a thought.
                          Should be OK there, 1020kV motor X 30V (8S)=30,600 RPM. Pretty safe especially when running a 45mm prop. It should spin with ease.
                          Tyler Garrard
                          NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                          T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                          Comment

                          • Xfactor
                            Banned
                            • Mar 2009
                            • 861

                            #14
                            Timing is 10 Degrees as recommended by Neu. 4 pole. There is no setting in the online software for number of poles. Only a max RPM setting which is based on the max switching frequency divided by number of poles.
                            If Understand you in this case 30,600/4 =7.65 should that number be your timing?

                            Comment

                            • m4a1usr
                              Fast Electric Addict
                              • Nov 2009
                              • 2038

                              #15
                              Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
                              In the data the battery voltage drops like crazy suggesting is has poor connection under load, but I have triple checked the connections and the packs will deliver enough to current to start a jet engine.

                              The other funny thing from the data is there is no current beng shown in 8 out of the 10 logged attempts. The current simply stays at zero and does not move.

                              In the 2 out of 10 files the current goes up to 5A and no higher.
                              I'm going to assume the data is from an Eagle tree logger? So does that mean you are reading the voltage right off the battery leads? Where at? At the esc or somewhere in the wiring loop. Also whats the wiring arraingment? Four 4S packs? What are the parallel adapters you are using? Home made? Low voltage and low current data from the logger says its a battery/wiring issue when under load. Cold solder joint? Bad cell in a pack?

                              John
                              Change is the one Constant

                              Comment

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