33" Fountain Setup Issues

[FloatDaBoat]

probably have spun the magnets on the rotor or demagnetized them.

I understand that overheating a motor will demagnetize the magnets on a rotor, but please explain how rotor magnets become spun.

[m4a1usr]

I understand that overheating a motor will demagnetize the magnets on a rotor, but please explain how rotor magnets become spun.

Magnets on 540 series rotors are pressed on the shaft. If the magnet fractures or the splines no longer "bite" in to the magnetic material they spin on the shaft.

John

[scooterP]

Did some running today with the rudder kicked back and I didn't see any change in the turns....unfortunately. One thing that I did notice is that it turns really well to the left. I guess that is because it is going against the prop and that holds the transom down. Is there any paperwork out there on these Performance International Fountains?....... Something like suggested setups and where the drive should exit the transom?

[FloatDaBoat]

Magnets on 540 series rotors are pressed on the shaft. If the magnet fractures or the splines no longer "bite" in to the magnetic material they spin on the shaft.

John

Thanks John, for your very concise explanation, now I know.

[D. Newland]

I'll post a few pics tomorrow of my ridpad fill-in job. It's done, but the rest of the boat isn't.

I know it's may seem daunting and that you may be able to dial in this boat without going down this road, but I doubt it. However, keep testing the little things first to see if you are successful. There's still more you can test.

A few things that I follow when setting up a mono. I always start w/the strut perfectly parallel, turn fins 25 degrees from perpendicular, rudder perfectly perpendicular. Tabs neutral.

1st run-I try to take care of any balance issues with cell movement first, then tabs, then strut.
If the bow is lifting/slapping the water, move batt's forward. If the boat is plowing or looks like a dolphin (leaping/bouncing nose first in the water), move the batts back.

Turn fins can also affect trim, especially in the turns. The more perpendicular they are, the lower the nose will be/the tigher the boat will be. The more angled back, the looser the boat will be.

Since this boat is a shallow V, I'm going with turn fins that have a leading edge of about 10 degrees from perpendicular. There won't be as much bank w/this boat compared to others that are common in FE, so I'm erroring on a tighter turnfin than normal.

The installation of your strut (and all other components) seems fine to me.

But, I don't like all the extra water pickup work you've done. Either use the stock water inlet on the rudder or your transom mounted pickup...but not both IMO. If you stick w/the transom pickup, completely fill in all water inlets on the rudder w/JB Weld and sand smooth. Extra "hop ups" for water cooling sport boats (or even race boats) just isn't necessary, and who know what kind of drag/turbulence it's creating.

[scooterP]

Thanks for your comments. I go through my test runs pretty much as you described.
I always try to get things as close as I can with balance, then move on to other things.

I know the extra pickup may be causing drag, but it makes me feel better...lol. I can tell you that I first ran the boat without the extra water pickup and the handling and speed didn't seem to be any different, but I just thought it needed a little more flow. I understand that you can have too much flow for good heat exchange.

Just want to say again that I very much appreciate the advice and comments. I'm anxious to see your pics of the mod on your boat. I don't have a problem doing that kind of stuff. I just wanted to avoid it if possible.

I wonder if the designer(s) ever really did any testing...... Is there anyone else out there who has/had one of these hulls? I would like to know what others did or didn't do.

[scooterP]

Since this boat is a shallow V, I'm going with turn fins that have a leading edge of about 10 degrees from perpendicular.

Forgot to ask this. Do you mean angled toward the prop 10 degrees measured at the bottom of turn fin?

[D. Newland]

When looking at the transom, mount the turn fins 90 degress from the hull ride surface (you did this).

When looking at the side of the turn fin, the leading edge can be adjusted forward or back. That's the angle I'm talking about. My leading edge of the turn fin is about 10 degrees from perpendicular. I'll photo that, too.

[scooterP]

I understand what you are saying now. Thanks

[properchopper]

Phil, since I sold you the hull and am watching your frustrations, I'm feeling for you. I do know that within five minutes of posting the sale, Mr. Newland called me on the phone to snatch up the other one & He's about as good a builder as there is. He must have recognized it's potential. Some hulls take longer to dial in than others. When I bought a used 33" mono several years ago, one that was and still is very popular, it took me forever to get it to turn correctly. I was really miffed, but after two complete remodels , it handles better than I could ever wish. Stay with it, & put a longer rudder on it asap. I'm sure Mr. Newland will help you - listen to his advice ! I'll be following your progress and will do what I can to see you get it where you want it.

Tony

[scooterP]

Tony,
No worries at all!!! I love the hull, and I will stick with it and get it sorted out. I've been flying model helis for the last 23 or so years, so I understand that sometimes it takes some tweaking to get things right. The quality of the hull is outstanding imho. I'm working within a "tight" budget right now, that's why I didn't go ahead and just buy another rudder right off. I feel that the longer rudder will make a very noticable difference....just got to get one.

[scooterP]

I used to have access to a mill. If I still did, I would just machine one out of aluminum to fit my current SV hardware. Really just need the blade lengthened

[properchopper]

Funny you mention helis ! I got hooked a month ago ; started with a 20 buck e-bay cheapie, bought a crapola co-ax from Fry's & refunded it, bought a Blade MCX S300 & love it; got an MSR & love it; bought a Walkera FP & I can't get it dialed in no matter what I do, on my way to get the new Blade SR today !!

[scooterP]

Yeah, they are highly addictive. Helis are much easier to get into these days. The electonics have advanced so much, it's just incredible. I have 3 flyable helis right now and 2 or 3 more in different states of destruction....lol. All are repairable, but right now these darn boats have my attention. I still fly my gasser from time to time....somthing I will probably never let go.

[D. Newland]

Here's a few shots of mine. The ride-pad fill in job took 3 light coats of the fiberglass bondo with block sanding in between coats. It's about there.

The clamp and level were to push in a rocker on that side of the hull. I clamped it flat, then put in a layer of the same bondo on the inside. That bondo is very heavy and dense, so if you're not wanting to add much weight, epoxy and glass cloth would be better.

The shot of the turn fin shows you the angle I'm trying to achieve, but I don't think this will be the turn fin that will be running on the boat as I think I cut it too short.