33" Fountain Setup Issues

[crabstick]

Funny you mention helis ! I got hooked a month ago ; started with a 20 buck e-bay cheapie, bought a crapola co-ax from Fry's & refunded it, bought a Blade MCX S300 & love it; got an MSR & love it; bought a Walkera FP & I can't get it dialed in no matter what I do, on my way to get the new Blade SR today !!

Have a look at the Hobbyking HK500gt, nice T-rex 500 clone, head and shoulders above that walkera stuff.

[scooterP]

D. Newland.....thanks for the pics. You built the bottom up nicely. I'm anxious to see how it handles after your mod. I ordered a longer rudder setup from OSE to see what it will do before I get out the glass and bondo. Keep me updated on your progress and findings. Also, I agree that your turn fin is a little short. The fins I have on mine are huge compared to anything else I'm running. Of course this is the largest boat I have.

[scooterP]

D. Newland
Have you had any more progress with your boat? My new rudder is supposed to arrive today and I will be filling in holes and mounting it tonight. Don't know when I will get to test it because it looks like rain here for the next few days.

[D. Newland]

Nope. I don't really have a target date to complete this one...taking my time for once!

Up next-2 part foam on the sides and in the nose. I've got 4" rails cut and shaped, but not installed.

[scooterP]

I used pipe foam wrap on the sides and nose of mine. It's the stuff that is around 2" across and has an adhesive down the sides and creates a foam tube. 3 bucks for more than enough foam for the fountain.

Oh yea....usps decided that it was best to hold on to my new rudder at the facility 35 miles away since 5:30 this morning!!! I hate waiting on parts

[scooterP]

I got the new rudder mounted this weekend and it's a thing of beauty. Much larger than the SV27 rudder that I had on there. I didn't get a chance to try it out, but I hope to get out to the pond this evening. I'm sure that I will see a difference. Whether it is enough to stop the hopping........we'll just have to see. I've also switched to running 4s2p setup, so I can get a little bit more run time.

[scooterP]

Well folks.....the longer rudder made little to no difference. I actually think it may have increased the lifting of the rear in a turn. The pond was a little rough on Monday afternoon, but I would have still been able to tell.

I'm going to have to look into D. Newland's method and see what I come up with. I have already modified a piece of balsa to stick on the bottom for some experimentation. I still would like to have the hull dialed in "as is" without getting out the bondo and glass, but there may not be any other options.

I wonder how it would handle if you ran a strut instead of a stinger and brought out the stuffing tube and driveshaft just below the transom? Have the drive come out right at the back edge of the ride pad. The prop hub would be in the same plane as the pad.....hmm.

Maybe it just need to have the CG way aft...... Any thoughts are appreciated.

[D. Newland]

I actually had 3 pretty successful days with my build. I'm just waiting on a motor mount my neighbor is helping weld up and I need to get the rails installed. The 2 part foam got done last night and I re-painted the hull yesterday. All transom hardware done.

I'll have it in the water March 28th...maybe March 21st if I'm lucky. If you can wait, I'll let you know how it runs before you have a go at the ridepad.

[scooterP]

Sounds good to me. I've already mocked up something to try with the ride pad. I have to say that I was suprised to see that the longer and wider rudder didn't show any improvement.
I'll be anxious to hear how your runs go.

[crabstick]

just curious and forgive me if this has been asked, but how far up from the keel does the stuffing tube exit the transom?

[scooterP]

Crabstick,

I have a close up pic in one of my posts on page one of the thread. I would say it's about 1/8 of an inch above the keel.

I still wonder how it would do if it exited right at the rear of the ride pad and used a strut.

[scooterP]

OK folks. Tried it again yesterday with my "built up keel" and still saw little difference. I also added a lot of weight to the rear...probably 8 oz or so. That also didn't make much difference.

The only thing that did make a noticable difference is cranking the outside trim tabs down......but then it seemed to be running a little on the wet side. I might just take a break for a day or two and then come back to it.

I've got to get a heli set up for a friend, so it will be a good distraction for a day or two. Maybe then I will come back with a fresh set of ideas.

[crabstick]

Raise the stuffing tube exit and see if it sits down at all.. thats the only thing I normally do with monos, I have tried subsurface like you are mentioning on a 700mm fglass mono and it was ok, but skipped like a stone in the turns. I converted it to surface and ran the tube out the transom but drilled the hole about 6-7mm from the keel, it changed the boat quite a bit. would actually turn nicely, and really handled the chop well

[scooterP]

Me thinks I will give it a shot. So how much total do you think I should raise it? Also with the prop sitting higher.......wonder why it wouldn't blow out sooner in the turn. Does raising the exit point out of the transom pull it down when running? This stuff is hard to get my mind around sometimes.

[crabstick]

raising the exit point will let the transom "sit down" a bit and should stop the skip, with the transom sitting down more it shouldn't blow out in the turns

what you could do is slot your current hole up, and run a flooded shaft log. Basically all this is, is a small box on the inside of the boat that the stuffing tube sits in, to allow the shaft to move up and down. This will give you a wide range of adjustment.

I have one on a delta force 29 clone that I got from Tylerm, I can take pics tonight if you need