I didn't like the way the flat ridepad angles upward toward the transom.
IMO This is causing your trouble in the turns. The boat goes into a corner and is turning fine until the ridepad on the keel is exposed. This is causing the prop to "blow out". The hulls settles back in briefly, then the prop blows out again. The reason the boat did better when you lowered the outside tab is because it delayed this process by keeping the hull a bit flatter in the turn. Again JMO.
If you want to test this theory...................
Take some 2" masking tape and lay it down on the hull bottom on each side of the ride pad. Use some two way tape (servo tape, photo tape) to temporarily attach a length if balsa triangle stock a bit wider than the ridepad to the ridepad. Sand the balsa triangle stock down even with the bottom of the boat. ( The 2" masking tape is so you don't sand into the gelcoat) Then slightly round your new "test keel".
Test the boat, if it doesn't improve I'm sorry I wasted your time. If it does then you'll know what needs to be done.
Good luck with her,
Doug
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I have a mono that did that, but my problem was as the boat laid over for the turn the rudder was lifting the transom causing the hull to bounce horrible so I angled the rudder several degrees to the bottom of the hull problem solved, the boat corners wonderful right and turns reasonably well to the left as well.
Your prop sits nicely right next to the rudder...........perfect to offset torque roll/steer.............is that a water pickup on the bottom of your rudder........never seen one like that.
no its on the side just like all the other ones, I just angled the blade a bit,(no longer vertical) but not as much as the turn fin on the starboard side that way when the hull lays over the rudder will be closer to vertical, eliminating the violent bounce.
He is running SV27 hardware on a 33" hull. Too small of a rudder. Might be long enough (too hard to tell from the pic's) but doesnt look wide enough. I'm with Tony.
I will probably try a new rudder, just have to order one. For this weekend I will look into D. Smock suggestion. Thanks for all of the replies and keep em coming!! Fortunately I'm the type of person that likes tweaking to figure out things. I'm going to see If I can angle the rudder a little more and see if it makes a diffference.
is that a water pickup on the bottom of your rudder
Yes it is a pickup. I drilled through the rudder and added a little brass tube to help with water pickup. It works well, but I added the second pickup on the left to help out with cooling a little more. I found that mod on the SV forum.
just before you go changing too much, that rudder looks like its kicked forward a bit, that will cause the nose to bury in the turns and may lift the rear, if you can adjust it, try kicking the rudder back so its either plum vertical, or if you kick it back a little from vertical it will lift the nose on the turns may keep the rear planted.
Can you get a better pic of where the driveline exits the hull so the height can be gauged
Yes, the rudder is kicked forward. I was thinking that you kicked it forward to pull the rear down in a turn....... I'll be glad to change and see what the result is. I've already went out today and played around with it a little bit.
I actually wanted to have a little fun instead of all testing and I threw in another 2s pack for a total of 6s Incredible speed, but I think my 9xl or my esc gave up and I lost power. It sounded mechanical and I thought the coupling had come loose, but now when I give power it jumps and won't take the throttle. There wasn't any bad smell and nothing looks burnt. I hope it's not the esc. If it's the motor, I have an 8xl that I can run in it. The 9xl is a hobby king motor....so I'm hoping that it had the failure. The esc is a 200a with a suge rating for 240a, but it's the flyermate version, so it could have just given up even though it shouldn't have been over amped. It also wasn't hot.......but the motor was a lot hotter than it should have been.
Yea......had to do a "watch this"........lol. I really don't want to have to run a 6s setup. I'm trying to stay in the 4s range. It sure was fast though. I wish I would have put my phone(gps) in it to see what it made it to. With moderate chop the hull ran nicely.......except in the turns, but with the help of this thread that will get sorted as well...
I'll test the change in the rudder out tomorrow. I had already went out to the pond before I read your post.
i personally would go to a 10xl or higher wind for 6s.
I'm not going to get into the habit of running 6s. I'm going to keep with the 4s in the interest of my budget. I'll probably end up going with a 580 motor in the future. I'm just a sport runner. Can't find anyone around here to run with so I'm not being pushed any....
Hey guys I was just sitting here thinking about what Doug had suggested about building up the ride pad to "normal" Do you think that moving up the strut another 1/8 of an inch or so would pull the rear down more and let it be more effective.
Of course I would think that maybe the prop would be closer to blowing out in turns with it higher up..... Just thinking out loud here..
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