Total Noob looking to build a boat, Have setup and LIPO questions...

[dt911]

Thanks, Jesse ! So Mr. Gunnatel, here's one direction you may want to consider, especially if you're looking for "only 5-6 minutes" runtime, which in the realm of FE boats does require some special thought, given the rule : " Speed, Runtime, Reliability; Choose any Two ". Set up the Titan as an LSO boat - LSO races are 4 minutes + @ 30 second mill lap. I just set mine up for an LSO race this month in Arizona : Proboat motor, something along the lines of a budget SC like a Turnigy 120 [ I'm using a modded CC 80,] 4S2P Turnigy 3600's
{ a pair of 5000's will give more runtime but the extra weight causes the boat to run rather wet at LSO speeds slowing the boat down & pulls more amps}, X442. Fan and water cooling. High 30's, maybe 40 in loose water. Looks great [I'm with you, I love the Titans looks].
Not trying to burst your bubble. ( OK, just a little) It's nice to welcome you to our FE family for sure & wish you success. BTW, where in NH do you run? I lived in Center Harbor, & Laconia in the early 1960's & loved Lake WinnipiHowDoYouSpellIt. Rowed Crew on Squam, or was it MinniSquam ? And yeah, New Hampshire's licence plate says it all ; Live Free or Die !!!

Wow, that was a great video that you posted earlier, and thank you for all of the advice. I think that I will end up with the Turnigy 180 ESC and Either the 9xl or 10xl motor, A Pair of 2S1P 5000mah packs in Series, Wire drive and Water cooling. I would assume that you could prop either setup for the same top speed, but I'm not sure how it would all come together with respect to increased resistance with increased pitch and the lower rpms that would go along with it.
I live on the seacoast and will be running in Northwood, only about 20 miles from lake Winni. Thanks again for the warm welcome and all of the advice. I don't know why I haven't built one before, these things look like a blast!

[dt911]

you cut the piano wire with your dremmel and a cutoff wheel (wearing safety goggles of course). This does need a thrust bearing between the motor and coupler. rcraceboat.com is another piano wire site (where I get mine) and I didn't worry about the difference in length - just realized it now...

drive dog is positioned based on having enough thread after the prop for the nut (leaving 1/16-1/8" between drive dog and end of strut). Basically I put the drive dog on the stub before inserting into boat, then the prop and nut. You can adjust the drive dog to where you like it best and then notch it for the set screw in the drive dog - again with your cutoff wheel. Then use the blue loctite in your set screw and get her real tight. Then you measure how much to trim the wire. Remember not all of the 3" of stinger has the bushing so you will not have any trouble.

Thanks!
I didn't know that there would be a setscrew in the drive dog, now that part makes sense. How close should the drive dog be to the end of the stinger? Is this a place that requires another thrust bearing?
Last questions (for now)- It looks like the stinger for a 3/16" shaft requires a 1/4" brass stuffing tube. Will I need to step this down to something like 1/8" for the wire drive? and how long should the tube be? (my understanding is that you only need a minimal length at the transom, unlike a flex cable with a full tube...)

[Jesse J]

Most stingers have a bushing already inside. As for stuffing tube, it depends on whether you want a teflon liner... another item that some use some don't. Basically adds a little lube and decreases vibration noise.... So if you use a .078" wire, you could use a narrow teflon id (1/8") and whatever the wall thickness is will dictate your OD. (hope that didn't add to confusion - its clear inside my head...). I didn't use a liner, just 5/32" brass stuffing tube that lead into the stinger a little. The stinger can take up to 1/4" doesn't mean that it requires it.

As I said in the beginning of the second paragraph, 1/16 - 1/8" spacer btwn stinger and drive dog, and no the thrust bearing goes between the motor housing and the coupler, see post 11 as well.

[properchopper]

Thanks!
I didn't know that there would be a setscrew in the drive dog, now that part makes sense. How close should the drive dog be to the end of the stinger? Is this a place that requires another thrust bearing?
Last questions (for now)- It looks like the stinger for a 3/16" shaft requires a 1/4" brass stuffing tube. Will I need to step this down to something like 1/8" for the wire drive? and how long should the tube be? (my understanding is that you only need a minimal length at the transom, unlike a flex cable with a full tube...)

With a wire drive, I run very little clearance between the drive dog & strut. No thrust bearing needed there, one on the motor would be good. A .078 wire runs best in a 5/32" stuffing tube; you'll need to step this up to enter & center in the stinger. BTW, on a deep vee like the Titan, you'll minimize chine walk by having the strut or stinger raised up @ 1/4" to 3/8" above keel bottom. There's several OSE forum members running Titans and I'm sure you'l get plenty of help on setups from mild to wild !

[dt911]

With a wire drive, I run very little clearance between the drive dog & strut. No thrust bearing needed there, one on the motor would be good. A .078 wire runs best in a 5/32" stuffing tube; you'll need to step this up to enter & center in the stinger. BTW, on a deep vee like the Titan, you'll minimize chine walk by having the strut or stinger raised up @ 1/4" to 3/8" above keel bottom. There's several OSE forum members running Titans and I'm sure you'l get plenty of help on setups from mild to wild !

What about the length of the stuffing tube itself? Do I need to bring it almost all the way up to the motor with a wire drive or cut it off somewhere just inside the transom?

Makes sense to raise the stinger to avoid chine walk. Are you talking about 1/4-3/8" to the bottom of the stinger unit or the center of the shaft? It seems to me that I should be able to get a nearly straight driveline with the stinger raised up and the motor mounted as low as possible in the hull.

[Norman2]

Hi, You will enjoy your Titan 29. I race mine in LSO with a UL-1 Motor and esc and
It is a lot of fun. The most important thing is to set it up correctly. Attached photos
of mine. Regards
Norman

[dt911]

Hi, You will enjoy your Titan 29. I race mine in LSO with a UL-1 Motor and esc and
It is a lot of fun. The most important thing is to set it up correctly. Attached photos
of mine. Regards
Norman

Great looking boat! I like the detail around the windows. Does the hull come with decals or is that your own handy work? I also like the use of a bellows for the water tube, no bulkhead fitting I assume... Great idea!

[properchopper]

What about the length of the stuffing tube itself? Do I need to bring it almost all the way up to the motor with a wire drive or cut it off somewhere just inside the transom?

Makes sense to raise the stinger to avoid chine walk. Are you talking about 1/4-3/8" to the bottom of the stinger unit or the center of the shaft? It seems to me that I should be able to get a nearly straight driveline with the stinger raised up and the motor mounted as low as possible in the hull.

Center of shaft to bottom of hull. You can run the stuffing tube as close to the motor as you like. Since there should be around 2" +/- between the transom and the front of the collett [ recommend Jeff Wohlt's Octura style collets, BTW - no pesky setscrews ] if you rear-set the motor, there's minimal drag. Picture of a wire application in my Miss Vegas. Note the top-secret, highly creative shaft seal (antenna tube cap, thank you !)

[dt911]

Center of shaft to bottom of hull. You can run the stuffing tube as close to the motor as you like. Since there should be around 2" +/- between the transom and the front of the collett [ recommend Jeff Wohlt's Octura style collets, BTW - no pesky setscrews ] if you rear-set the motor, there's minimal drag. Picture of a wire application in my Miss Vegas. Note the top-secret, highly creative shaft seal (antenna tube cap, thank you !)

Thanks again for all of your input. Is your stuffing tube on some kind of aluminum mount? Is that something I should think about? Also, what are the blue leads coming from your power wires? Separate BEC?

[properchopper]

Thanks again for all of your input. Is your stuffing tube on some kind of aluminum mount? Is that something I should think about? Also, what are the blue leads coming from your power wires? Separate BEC?

If you mount the motor close to the transom, you'll likely not need any real extra brace to support a very short stuffing tube. On my Titan a big glop of JB does the trick. The pictured setup is on a hydro with front motor. What looks like an aluminum support is actually a clamp to keep the inner 5/32 " tube in place after strut [not a stinger] is tilted back & forth for correct angle. The 5/32" tube can slide back & forth inside the next larger tube & is clamped once dialed in.
Yup, the wires go to an external BEC

[Norman2]

Great looking boat! I like the detail around the windows. Does the hull come with decals or is that your own handy work? I also like the use of a bellows for the water tube, no bulkhead fitting I assume... Great idea!

Hi, On my 34" cat I used a bulkhead fitting, On the Titan I used a bellows for the intake and has a fitting on the side for discharging cooling water. Decals used were
from old R/C Cars that I had built but never used. Offshore boats always have a lot
of decals and I like. Keep up the good work on your build. Regards
Norman

[dt911]

Hi, On my 34" cat I used a bulkhead fitting, On the Titan I used a bellows for the intake and has a fitting on the side for discharging cooling water. Decals used were
from old R/C Cars that I had built but never used. Offshore boats always have a lot
of decals and I like. Keep up the good work on your build. Regards
Norman

Thanks Norman! The build will progress as soon as my Obama rebate is in my hand. (How much did that extra $400 really cost me???) I keep going back to your pictures and I really like the look of your hardware. Where did you get it?

[Norman2]

Hi, Hardware was purchased from Offshore Electrics. I buy all my stuff from Steve.
Norman

[dt911]

Hi, Hardware was purchased from Offshore Electrics. I buy all my stuff from Steve.
Norman

Great, one-stop shopping :) What is the little black "nub" above trim tab on the left hand side of the transom? And which Rudder is that? I can't find it on the site... Thanks!

[Norman2]

Hi, The little black nub is the receiver battery pack switch. I do not use BEC on my ESC. The
rudder was just laying in my tool box and I believe it was from Fullers Fast Electrics. You can use
any of the rudders at OSE. I will send you picks of the one I would use. Regards
Norman