Hi M.M.
I've had the 8Xl in that hull on 4s & ran an X642 & X645 on it with no heat problems. The X645 made it a bit skippy in the corners at full noise though.
The X642 was more stable. So you've got some room to experiment with that motor. I think an X640/3 blade would be a good option too. I'll have to get one to try it.
Hope this helps a bit.
Paul.
No problems as far as I can see, as long as the hull is not running wet.
An X640 is a light load on an 8XL in that small hull.
To continue that analogy (by domwilson) of the motors a bit further. If the 8XL is like a V8 engine then the props are the gears in the 5 speed gearbox bolted to that engine.
I would say that the X640 is third gear, the X642 is fourth gear & the X645 is fith gear. They all load the motor accordingly.
Cheers.
Paul.
Here's one by one of our club members with an 8XL in it. Not sure of the prop or the actual speed though. Mine looked similar in speed with an X642 on it. So here's what you're looking at.
Paul.
Took it out this weekend and man i can fly. I was running in super rough water so i couldnt really get on it. But when i did it was like a rocket. Now i just need to solder the square flex to the prop shaft. How do i do this?
if its the sqaure ended flex setup it maybe .150 flex with a 4mm prop shaft.
these can work okay if there isnt a lot of power,i havent had any problems with mine running a ammo 2300, but i did originally run that setup in a 7xl powered cat and as 785boats will tell you they split in the sqaure part of the prop shaft
Yes i beleive that it is a .150 cable, with either a 4mm ot 1/8 propshaft. I forget who it was but somone said that they soldered the flex to the prop shaft. This way it was more like a traditional flex drive, and does not use the squared end. I wan to know the best way to join these two pieces.
you maybe able to solder them togethor but i havent tried. if you do try this there is a bit of slop in the sqaured ends so just have to be carful that the flex is central other wise it will vibrate.another possability is take your strut to a machine shop and have it drilled out to 1/4 then you can put in a piece of 1/4 brass tube and a standard speed master bushing and run a .150 flex with a 3/16 prop shaft. i think 785boats may have done this
Here's one by one of our club members with an 8XL in it. Not sure of the prop or the actual speed though. Mine looked similar in speed with an X642 on it. So here's what you're looking at.
Paul. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDjcgq6zFzs
I love it... Like a built V8 in a small car!
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
Hi there M.M.
Soldering the two pieces together is pretty easy. Just make sure you clean all the lube out of the socket & off the flex first.
I just drilled a hole in a piece of scrap wood so the shaft was a tight fit in it to hold it steady & vertical, tinned the flex & the socket, heated the socket until the solder melted & pushed the flex in. Removed the heat when I was sure the solder on the flex had melted (just a couple of seconds) & hold steady until the solder 'sets'.
You will need a big soldering iron for this.
But as Ozzie said make sure the flex is centered & true to avoid vibration.
I did this by keeping a slight amount of twisting pressure on the flex & it sort of self centers. Maybe I was just lucky but there are no vibration problems with mine.
This was on a 32" cat with the same setup as these 25" hulls.
I ended up putting a complete new 3/16" stinger on my 25" hull after splitting two of those sockets.
Just remember, you will need to leave a 1/8" to 3/16" gap between the strut & drive dog once you solder that shaft.
Also, as the shaft is 4mm you will need a short piece of 3/16 brass tube to sleeve the 3/16 bore props you will most probably be using.
All the best.
Paul.
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