Has a worthy ESC been born? The Castle XLX2 looks to be an excellent ESC.

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  • Panther6834
    Senior Member
    • Apr 2020
    • 708

    #121
    Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
    It's a 4-40 screw in each corner. 3/32" hex driver is standard for 4-40's.

    There is no need to grease the O-Ring. It's not sliding or rolling over something. It's a simple compression by the top cover. If you wish to know more you can read the Parker-Hannifin O-ring guide. It is the bible for O-rings.
    https://www.parker.com/Literature/O-...ORD%205700.pdf
    Thanks, Tyler...3/32" it is. While on my way to the LHS (need to pick up a few things for my land RCs), I'll swing by Home Depot to pick one up...or, better yet, a (small) imperial hex wrench set.

    As for that O-ring Bible, at almost 300 pages, it's a bit too long for my tastes. If I'm gonna be reading anything that long (or longer), it needs to have action, magic and/or spaceships in it...lol


    ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

    Comment

    • longballlumber
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Apr 2007
      • 3132

      #122
      Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
      It's a 4-40 screw in each corner. 3/32" hex driver is standard for 4-40's.

      There is no need to grease the O-Ring. It's not sliding or rolling over something. It's a simple compression by the top cover. If you wish to know more you can read the Parker-Hannifin O-ring guide. It is the bible for O-rings.
      https://www.parker.com/Literature/O-...ORD%205700.pdf
      Sorry for the mis-information. 10-32 is the thread for the fittings.

      Comment

      • Panther6834
        Senior Member
        • Apr 2020
        • 708

        #123
        Originally posted by longballlumber
        Sorry for the mis-information. 10-32 is the thread for the fittings.
        No worries. It all comes out in the wash...so to speak...lol [emoji1687]


        ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

        Comment

        • Jesse J
          scale FE racer
          • Aug 2008
          • 7116

          #124
          I got my Speedo sanded flat and ready for the cooling plate. I?m gonna toy with a retainer plate even with thermal poxy.
          "Look good doin' it"
          See the fleet

          Comment

          • NativePaul
            Greased Weasel
            • Feb 2008
            • 2760

            #125
            I have a couple of questions and an idea about this ESC.

            The chamfered edges of the ESC case compared to the previous rounded edges makes me believe that they have switched from a molded plastic case to a machined alloy case, is this correct?

            They say the XLX2 is fully potted so I doubt anyone has removed the case, but has anyone seen prototype XLX2 power board/s naked? Or othewise know if it has a single or dual power board, and if it/they are single or double sided.

            All the previous Castle ESCs I have seen have had FETs on both sides of the board, if that is the case with this one and a good potting compound was used we should be able to mount our water cooling solutions to the bottom of the case (maybe more neatly as there appears to be screw holes for mounting there already) without the cooling suffering too much which would remove the need to break/machine off the fins on top, and if we were to leave the air cooling solution on top, we may well even see better cooling than with the current top mounted water cooling, with much less effort, and an ESC that can easily be returned to stock.
            Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

            Comment

            • LibertyMKiii
              Senior Member
              • Dec 2018
              • 127

              #126
              Originally posted by NativePaul
              I have a couple of questions and an idea about this ESC.

              The chamfered edges of the ESC case compared to the previous rounded edges makes me believe that they have switched from a molded plastic case to a machined alloy case, is this correct?

              They say the XLX2 is fully potted so I doubt anyone has removed the case, but has anyone seen prototype XLX2 power board/s naked? Or othewise know if it has a single or dual power board, and if it/they are single or double sided.

              All the previous Castle ESCs I have seen have had FETs on both sides of the board, if that is the case with this one and a good potting compound was used we should be able to mount our water cooling solutions to the bottom of the case (maybe more neatly as there appears to be screw holes for mounting there already) without the cooling suffering too much which would remove the need to break/machine off the fins on top, and if we were to leave the air cooling solution on top, we may well even see better cooling than with the current top mounted water cooling, with much less effort, and an ESC that can easily be returned to stock.
              Hi Paul,
              The entire ESC case is Aluminum and from what I heard the bottom does have a significant impact on cooling.(possibly the BEC circuit?) They even cut some heatsink style fins into the bottom side although only just a few and they are small.

              Comment

              • RaceMechaniX
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Sep 2007
                • 2821

                #127
                Paul,
                The case is machined from billet aluminum. I have not seen anyone cut out the board yet or try to remove the potted assembly from the case. Not sure whether the power PCBA is single or double sided. In the ICE and EDGE controllers they are double sided. I believe the Mamba line of ESC's have all been single sided. Since there are no visible caps on the XLX2 like the smaller Mamba controllers, I have to believe they are placed on the bottom side of the power PCBA. Then all the FET's would be mounted on the top side.

                The potting material looks like a standard clear epoxy and not one of the high performance thermal potting materials. Those are usually very opaque due to a high volume of solids which conduct the heat. Castle may apply a TIM or other thermal interface between the caps and bottom of the case to remove heat and then add the epoxy potting compound.

                -Tyler
                Tyler Garrard
                NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                Comment

                • Panther6834
                  Senior Member
                  • Apr 2020
                  • 708

                  #128
                  Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
                  Paul,
                  The case is machined from billet aluminum. I have not seen anyone cut out the board yet or try to remove the potted assembly from the case. Not sure whether the power PCBA is single or double sided. In the ICE and EDGE controllers they are double sided. I believe the Mamba line of ESC's have all been single sided. Since there are no visible caps on the XLX2 like the smaller Mamba controllers, I have to believe they are placed on the bottom side of the power PCBA. Then all the FET's would be mounted on the top side.

                  The potting material looks like a standard clear epoxy and not one of the high performance thermal potting materials. Those are usually very opaque due to a high volume of solids which conduct the heat. Castle may apply a TIM or other thermal interface between the caps and bottom of the case to remove heat and then add the epoxy potting compound.

                  -Tyler
                  Since you designed the water block for the XLX2, I propose an "idea". Granted, this idea isn't 100% the same as running everything in an enclosed boat, but could give an excellent approximation of the real-world end results. Here's my idea:

                  Take an XLX2 (without any cooling...no fan, no water block), motor, Rx, and battery (all connected), attach a temperature sensor to the ESC, and place everything inside a closed box. Also, you'd need to use a water pump (outside the box), connected to the motor's water jacket, to 'simulate' water moving through the system (and keep the motor cool). Then run the motor at full-throttle for...say...3 minutes, to and see what the temp is.

                  After waiting a good 30 minutes, place your water block on top of the ESC (obviously, with a thermal compound between the water block & ESC), and run the same test, seeing what the new max temp is. Finally (after another 30min), run the test a third time, but with the water block under the ESC for the final test. For the 2nd & 3rd tests, you'd have to redo the cooling tubes, so as to add the ESC's water block to the cooling line.

                  Such a serious of tests would not only show how effective the water block is (compared to a stock ESC workout any cooling), but it works also show whether, or not, placing the water block under the XLX2 cools the ESC any better than having the water block on top of the ESC. So...what say you? Is it worth your time & effort? This serious of tests could be done by anyone having already received the water block AND already having two XLX2 ESCs (one with the heatsink fins still attached, and one with the fins already removed.


                  ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

                  Comment

                  • RaceMechaniX
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Sep 2007
                    • 2821

                    #129
                    It's a good test proposal however from my testing I am satisfied with the performance of the cooler. Moreover the ESC is not suffering from borderline cooling. Comparing test results from previous EDGE/ICE controllers versus the XLX2 under similar conditions the XLX2 runs much cooler. Castle has greatly improved the efficiency and reduced the switching losses hence lower cooling requirement for equal power.
                    Tyler Garrard
                    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                    Comment

                    • Turbostang434
                      Junior Member
                      • Dec 2021
                      • 12

                      #130
                      What cooling mod are you doing to the fc150? I have 1 that I'm setting up for a saw build? Thank you

                      Comment

                      • Mike W
                        Senior Member
                        • May 2018
                        • 345

                        #131
                        Originally posted by Turbostang434
                        What cooling mod are you doing to the fc150? I have 1 that I'm setting up for a saw build? Thank you
                        Fabrication and Machining services for all types of industry
                        Otto RC Marine

                        Comment

                        • RaceMechaniX
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Sep 2007
                          • 2821

                          #132
                          Hey all,
                          We are working on the X8S controller next. First samples are being machined now. I will post pics as soon as completed.
                          -Tyler
                          Tyler Garrard
                          NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                          T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                          Comment

                          • HTVboats
                            Senior Member
                            • Jun 2011
                            • 803

                            #133
                            I have been testing the XLX 2 on my Q mono with one of Don's cooling caps and am very impressed with the cooling. Have not seen over 100 degrees F* yet. 200-240 amps. My ICE controllers with tubes on the bars both sides runs 140+. Right now water surface temp is 65-70 degrees which is a cold as it gets here. In summer and 90+ water things heat up fast so I am looking forward to this ESC for our warmer weather. Used the grey RTV for making gaskets and no leaks. If that doesn't hold then 3M 5200 would be my choice.
                            Mic

                            Mic Halbrehder
                            IMPBA 8656
                            NAMBA 1414

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                            • donhuff
                              Senior Member
                              • Dec 2014
                              • 561

                              #134
                              Mic,

                              In my testing, the silicone was good for about 75 psi according to my air compressor. JB Weld quick, took it up to 125 psi. It might have gone higher but that's all my air compressor will do!

                              BTW, silicone tubing slides off of a nipple at about 25-30 psi, and with a zip tie to keep it on. It expands and to about 3" in diameter and then explodes at around 50-60 psi.
                              AmpDaddy
                              don huff

                              Comment

                              • Alfa Spirit
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • Oct 2009
                                • 2131

                                #135
                                This cooling plate fits the popular Castle Creations XLX2 Speed Controller. Mounting instructions are included, and this product DOES require modifying the existing controller. Package contains the cooling plate, instructions, and plastic water nipples. You will need to supply your own Thermal epoxy or grease to attach




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