Has a worthy ESC been born? The Castle XLX2 looks to be an excellent ESC.

[donhuff]

I like to remove the unused wires so that they don't get in my way in the boat. on the plug, lift up slightly with a T-pin or the point of an Xacto blade, on the little tabs on the plug. Then the connector and wire can be pulled out of the plug.

DSC_0002.jpg

[donhuff]

Bend back and forth on the outside row of fins to break them off as low as possible.

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[donhuff]

While working on the wires. I like to cut the switch wires then twist and solder together. Cover with some heat shrink.

It would seem like a switch would be a good thing, BUT I have had the switch turned off by moving battery wires TWICE on two different controllers, within a two week period. Thats not to bad for the play boaters, but if it happens to you during a race, you won't be happy about it.

DSC_0003.jpg

[donhuff]

I usually use a milling machine to trim down the fin stumps, but this time I used a Dremel to show that you don't have to have access to a mill. You do not have to get it really smooth, and actually a little roughness gives the glue something to grip on to.

DSC_0005.jpg

[donhuff]

Now you do need a mill! I make a little aluminum box that will sit down on the "milled" area, and will cover the left over fins.

DSC_0006.jpg

[donhuff]

Set it in place and mark the location where the nipple holes will go, then drill the holes for the water nipples. I like to put the inlet (right) down low, and the outlet high, to try and force as much air out as possible.

DSC_0007.jpg

[donhuff]

I drill the holes a couple of thousands under sized so that my nipples, have a pressed fit. I clean everything with assy-tone, and apply some of this really strong Loctite, then press them in.

DSC_0008.jpgDSC_0009.jpg

[donhuff]

I drill the holes a couple of thousands under sized so that my nipples, have a pressed fit. I clean everything with assy-tone, and apply some of this really strong Loctite, then press them in.

DSC_0008.jpgDSC_0009.jpg

[donhuff]

Sorry for the double post. Now I glue the cap on, being sure to keep the lower inlet nippel centered between the motor connectors. You can slide a piece of water tubimg on thatnipple to keep it centered.
DSC_0010.jpg


Here I'm using Permatex Ultra Grey, It's what's on the esc that I used at the record trials , and we made sever 70+ mph passes, so I'm sure it will hold. I have also used JB Weld. Either will work, just be sure to glob on a healthy sized bead of it so that you get a full seal.

[donhuff]

This makes for a tidy little package, and we have pulled about 260 amps with this X8. As you can see the XLX2 is a lot bigger, it does run cooler than the littler one, and at only $50 more, if you have plenty of room for it, it's the one I would use IF you plan to pull high amps a lot of the time. If you plan on a 200 amp top end load. Then use the X8, it'll save weight and room in your hull.

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[zooma]

Hey Don, good luck to Team Huff at sowega this weekend.

[donhuff]

thanks Ron

[HTVboats]

A big thanks to Don for sharing info and a photo how to. There is a need for controllers like this to advance FE racing.
Mic

[jaike5]

Nicely done Don, thx for the how to.
cheers, Jay.

[LibertyMKiii]

For some historical context or should you find yourself concerned about the fire/shorting issues with some of the early batch XLX2 ESCs.

"MANUFACTURING AND ASSEMBLY ADVISORY APPLIES TO:
MAMBA XLX2 8S, 33.6V ESC, 20A PEAK BEC 1/5 SCALE ESC (Part Number: 010-0167-00)
A small number of XLX2 units from the first production build could experience an internal hardware failure. Busbars that are housed within the Mamba XLX2 circuitry may, in limited circumstances, be misaligned and cause a malfunction to occur during the very first use of the ESC, whereby the ESC may beep and then stop responding.
Anyone experiencing this type of failure is encouraged to contact Castle for a warranty service. The manufacturing lot codes of this build are C27255, C27711, and C27964. This information is contained on the label adhered to the wires on the ESC and on the outside of the product box. Note that this issue has been addressed in subsequent manufacturing runs.
If you would like to have your ESC inspected and tested for this issue, please submit an SA2021-1 RETURN FORM and ship the ESC to Castle Creations, 540 N. Rogers Rd. Olathe, KS 66062. If it is determined that the unit exhibits this problem, it will be replaced with a new unit."