Has a worthy ESC been born? The Castle XLX2 looks to be an excellent ESC.

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  • RaceMechaniX
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Sep 2007
    • 2821

    #16
    Originally posted by HTVboats
    Tyler,
    Thanks for the info and while reading I thought a great project for Gabe at Stumpfab. and you were ahead of us there. One of the hardest questions for new boaters is what ESC for high power 200+ amps. I also like Castle and this seems to be an easy conversion. One question is it doesn't look to have the usual "cap bank". Are you going to add caps?
    I know 8S (S class) is not a popular racing class (other than scale) but I like it over Q. Everyone that runs P or P/L has 4 cells that allows the move up to "S" with their existing batteries.
    Keep the info coming.
    Mic
    Mic,
    The caps are on the opposite side of the board buried in the potted section of the case. I believe the XLX2 has a soft-start (anti-spark) circuit built in so no more vaporizing your terminals when plugging in high cell count batteries. One important note is we likely cannot use external cap bank when there is a soft-start circuit as high inrush from the external cap bank will cause the soft-start FET to fail. More to come there.

    -Tyler
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

    Comment

    • RaceMechaniX
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Sep 2007
      • 2821

      #17
      Originally posted by donhuff
      HUFFRACING has been running a couple of the xlx2 esc for a few months now and have had great success with them. At the record trials Tyler spoke about, in my P-limited mono on some SAW runs, we were pulling 414 amps (2575kv and abc 2015-17-45) and the controller got up to only 118*F. And this was after 3 or 4 passes. Our Q mono was pulling a tad under 400 and it stays cool also.

      I have converted to water cooled similar to like Tyler is doing, only I leave some of the fins breaking off only the ones on the outside edge. Then I make a water box to go over the fins that are left. I feel putting the water directly on the fins get the best cooling. I had a couple at the shop that I just converted for a friend, and have more coming in tomorrow. I'll get a few pictures to show how I'm doing it.

      I have also converted a few of the smaller x-8s. This one is a better fit in a limited boat and pulls 250 amps without a hickup. It does seem to get a little hotter, but it's about half the size of the big one.
      Don,
      I thought about your design of leaving the fins in place and building a cooling shell to cover the fins, but then you need a good seal to the baseplate. If we came up with a good clamped cover to hold the shell to the ESC this would be reliable and safe. However, I would be cautious that water pressure will blow the shell off and cause more problems. That's what I decided to make mine a 2 piece enclosed design with an O-ring seal. Have you had any problems with sealing yours?

      BTW, 414A with a P-limited motor is a new high watermark!

      -Tyler
      Tyler Garrard
      NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
      T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

      Comment

      • Hotrods
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2010
        • 281

        #18
        Tyler,

        Great information, looking forward to trying one out in my rigger.
        Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
        Some elbow grease later the stock heat sink is sanded fairly flat and ready for a water cooled heat sink to be glued on.

        [ATTACH=CONFIG]173523[/ATTACH]

        I have designed a two part water cooler for the XLX2 and am working with Gabe at Stump Fabrication to make a small production run of coolers.
        I'll work on a "how to" convert the ESC to water cooling after I check the fitment.

        [ATTACH=CONFIG]173524[/ATTACH]

        Hopefully this all pans out and we will have a great 4 cell, 6 cell and 8 cell controller for just about any motor combination. Castle are working on an HV version but no dates yet that I know of.

        -Tyler

        Comment

        • Panther6834
          Senior Member
          • Apr 2020
          • 708

          #19
          Tyler...once the water block design is considered, and testing complete, do you have an approximate time frame before they'll be available for purchase? I dislike Hobbywing (bad customer service, and rude people...at least here in the U.S.), and have been wanting to figure out a way to use Castle ESCs in my boats (several of my land vehicles are running Castle).

          Just curious, but, are you and/or is anyone else aware of marine conversations for other Castle ESCs? If I could replace the SeaKing 60, 120, and 180 ESCs in my boats with Castle ESCs (or something equally good, if not better...especially in regards to the SeaKing 180s), I'd be happier.


          ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

          Comment

          • RaceMechaniX
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Sep 2007
            • 2821

            #20
            Originally posted by Panther6834
            Tyler...once the water block design is considered, and testing complete, do you have an approximate time frame before they'll be available for purchase? I dislike Hobbywing (bad customer service, and rude people...at least here in the U.S.), and have been wanting to figure out a way to use Castle ESCs in my boats (several of my land vehicles are running Castle).

            Just curious, but, are you and/or is anyone else aware of marine conversations for other Castle ESCs? If I could replace the SeaKing 60, 120, and 180 ESCs in my boats with Castle ESCs (or something equally good, if not better...especially in regards to the SeaKing 180s), I'd be happier.


            ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
            I am not aware of other marine conversions for other Castle ESC's. All of them are homemade typically. I'll take a look at a MMX8 if I can find one reasonably priced to take apart and design a watercooled heat sink for it. I am hoping StumpFab will have the cooler available in several weeks.

            I will also see if OSE is interested in building up a stock of modified ESC's ready for sale.
            Tyler Garrard
            NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
            T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

            Comment

            • T.S.Davis
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Oct 2009
              • 6221

              #21
              I've been running the 8s all summer but at very low amps.
              Noisy person

              Comment

              • Panther6834
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2020
                • 708

                #22
                Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
                I will also see if OSE is interested in building up a stock of modified ESC's ready for sale.
                Now THAT would be fantastic. If Steve sees a good probability in them selling well...and, honestly, I don't see why they wouldn't...he could very will be interested. If he does, I'd guarantee to buy at least two.


                ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

                Comment

                • Hotrods
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2010
                  • 281

                  #23
                  I would buy a couple as well..........

                  Originally posted by Panther6834
                  Now THAT would be fantastic. If Steve sees a good probability in them selling well...and, honestly, I don't see why they wouldn't...he could very will be interested. If he does, I'd guarantee to buy at least two.


                  ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

                  Comment

                  • donhuff
                    Senior Member
                    • Dec 2014
                    • 561

                    #24
                    Tyler,

                    No problems with leakage as of yet. I glue the cap on with gray automotive silicone. It was recommended by my dirt track racing neighbors, where my shop is located. They use it to seal the intake manifold on their race cars. He sez it's the strongest, and that they have to use a pry bar to get the manifolds off. It seems pretty strong. I guess that I could put compressed air into it to see what it takes to blow it off. I'll try that.

                    "BTW, 414A with a P-limited motor is a new high watermark!" I was shocked to see it puling that much, and it did it several times and just kept on going. We had a good bit of smoke after one pass, but I put a couple of fresh packs in it and did it again!
                    AmpDaddy
                    don huff

                    Comment

                    • ray schrauwen
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 9471

                      #25
                      Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
                      Don,
                      I thought about your design of leaving the fins in place and building a cooling shell to cover the fins, but then you need a good seal to the baseplate. If we came up with a good clamped cover to hold the shell to the ESC this would be reliable and safe. However, I would be cautious that water pressure will blow the shell off and cause more problems. That's what I decided to make mine a 2 piece enclosed design with an O-ring seal. Have you had any problems with sealing yours?

                      BTW, 414A with a P-limited motor is a new high watermark!

                      -Tyler
                      Say What!!!???
                      Nortavlag Bulc

                      Comment

                      • Reesor@work
                        Member
                        • Jul 2008
                        • 53

                        #26
                        Add me to that list as well...in a heart beat.
                        Reesor Boat Works

                        Comment

                        • plinse
                          Senior Member
                          • Oct 2017
                          • 103

                          #27
                          Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
                          Here goes a new thread guys on looking at the Castle XLX2 for model boats. Beta testers have been reporting 400A, 500A and even 600A running with this new ESC and failures are not that common.
                          ...
                          What is a little strange for me is that I find an amp-rating on the BEC but none on the ESC itself.
                          Any chinese Manufacturer tells you the amp-rating like 10sec and continuous on his 50$-ESC but Castle tells you what cars and batteries you can use but no amp-rating

                          4-600A sounds great but what duration?
                          Is it the max. value that you find somewhere in the data recording / Logger for one sample or is it the current at the end of the run and the peak was higher? I just ask because I use some Flycolor 150 in some SAW setup and I have also seen 500A+ as max. Peak but the max. Peak is more a function of how hard you accelerate and not how powerful your drive is

                          Originally posted by LibertyMKiii
                          Well dang, I was hoping this would be my competitive secret in boating. Prepare to see lots of new records and broken drivelines!!!
                          ...
                          There is a lot of data, the pity is that I am not really sure about the current. Does it end at 200A in the end of the run?
                          If my understanding is correct don't expect too much to happen. That performance can also be handled by the FC150 for 50$ (limited to 6s of course) , it just needs a cooling modification and some caps

                          It would really be interesting to see some official specification to get more concrete then talking at the regular table.

                          Comment

                          • RaceMechaniX
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Sep 2007
                            • 2821

                            #28
                            Plinse,

                            Agreed that there is usually a current spec listed, but in this case the honest answer we got from Castle is "we don't know how high it can push". I have seen the v2 HK T-180 push very high currents and the same for Schulzes who are only rated to 160A, but push over 500A for short periods.

                            Let's assume the Castle XLX2 is somewhere in the range of 300-350A for 2-3 minutes. I know I can run a Castle Edge 200 at 300A for 90 seconds with proper cooling and mods. The XLX2 appears to be an improvement so I am optimistic. I am pretty sure several of us will test the XLX2 and provide more feedback on what it can handle.

                            -Tyler
                            Tyler Garrard
                            NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
                            T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

                            Comment

                            • Panther6834
                              Senior Member
                              • Apr 2020
                              • 708

                              #29
                              Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
                              Plinse,

                              Agreed that there is usually a current spec listed, but in this case the honest answer we got from Castle is "we don't know how high it can push". I have seen the v2 HK T-180 push very high currents and the same for Schulzes who are only rated to 160A, but push over 500A for short periods.

                              Let's assume the Castle XLX2 is somewhere in the range of 300-350A for 2-3 minutes. I know I can run a Castle Edge 200 at 300A for 90 seconds with proper cooling and mods. The XLX2 appears to be an improvement so I am optimistic. I am pretty sure several of us will test the XLX2 and provide more feedback on what it can handle.

                              -Tyler
                              I'm sure a LOT of us will be looking forward to whatever data can be provided. Personally, while they're a little ways away, I have two boats in mind (one twin, one single) I could see these going into.


                              ~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

                              Comment

                              • meangenesracing
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • Jun 2012
                                • 1158

                                #30
                                Originally posted by RaceMechaniX
                                Plinse,

                                Agreed that there is usually a current spec listed, but in this case the honest answer we got from Castle is "we don't know how high it can push". I have seen the v2 HK T-180 push very high currents and the same for Schulzes who are only rated to 160A, but push over 500A for short periods.

                                Let's assume the Castle XLX2 is somewhere in the range of 300-350A for 2-3 minutes. I know I can run a Castle Edge 200 at 300A for 90 seconds with proper cooling and mods. The XLX2 appears to be an improvement so I am optimistic. I am pretty sure several of us will test the XLX2 and provide more feedback on what it can handle.

                                -Tyler
                                Tyler did you receive my pm?

                                Comment

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