Common caps for two escs?

[TRUCKPULL]

Craig

The 4pls futaba and the RX (R304SB T-FHSS 4-channel telemetry enabled receiver)
Will NOT work for the inside motor to run slower on turns
You need to reprogram the transmitter for that.(Futaba does not have a program worked out yet for the 4PLS radio)

The dual mixing on the 4PLS is for Truck crawler's with two motors and two ESC's
You have to step up to the next radio in the chain (Add about $200)

I asked Futaba about steering and reducing the inside motor to run slower on turns with the 4PLS.
Above is the answer they gave me.

Unless you have figured something out?

Larry

[CraigP]

Well damn! That’s the same road block I got to with my FlySky! I did find a little PCB that is tiny that you hook the rudder and throttle channels from your receiver to, and it provides two outputs for the left and right motor. It has a little pot on it to adjust the mix. Mix range is about 30-70%, adequate I think for most boats. Thanks for the info Larry

[CraigP]

I get it. Thanks for the tips. I did not know, I did not know it.
I hope to start tomorrow.
An oscilloscope would be ideal for checking the signals. But it is an instrument that I could never buy. About 20 years ago I used it a lot with cars.

It’s an essential piece of gear for me... sorry to hear getting one there is so difficult. Read Truckpull’s post above. That transmitter won’t mix like I said. I just saw the table of contents and figured it did, I was wrong! But I can help with that! I’ll post a part number/source for a PCB that does this function. Read my description above...

[TRUCKPULL]

Craig

In you last schematic, you show a Dual Channel OPTO - Isolator

Where can I get one?
Do you or can you build one for me?

My boat is wired about the same as you schematic except for the Isolator.

And that little PCB unit will be in my future also.

Larry

[golfito]

Thanks guys.

http://www.mtroniks.net/prod/RC-Accessories/ZGM.htm

You can get to serve yourself Larry.

[srislash]

Thanks guys.

http://www.mtroniks.net/prod/RC-Accessories/ZGM.htm

You can get to serve yourself Larry.

Oh man, I was going to go electronic parts shopping today but this will save a ton of time.

Larry, the channel mixer will take a little playing with and may slow the corners slightly but should be worth it. I had one made for me awhile back for the old Komodo build. I went to SAW running and someone with a larger boat needed the mixer more than I do I don’t have one in service now.

[CraigP]

Shawn and Larry, the module looks good! It has more in there and I like to keep the circuit at a minimum, to help eliminate potential problems. That shipping from EU can’t be cheap.

Look guys, this is such a simple thing for me, I have so many parts laying around and about 1/2hr to build each one. I will build each of you guys one if you just cover shipping. I would be honored to help you guys out. Let me know, I can get them in the mail Monday. I’m going to look up that stand-alone mixer and will post a thread to get it. I think Taiwan, about 1-1/2 week shipping. If you want one, then PM me your address.

[srislash]

Wow, that is so nice Craig. So you would need one to go inline(instead of Y) or one on each esc? And same question for the Mtroniks one since I ordered 10 of them. I know, impulsive!! I could cancel the order.

[CraigP]

Wow, that is so nice Craig. So you would need one to go inline(instead of Y) or one on each esc? And same question for the Mtroniks one since I ordered 10 of them. I know, impulsive!! I could cancel the order.

Well, the schematic is for a dual, but you bring up a good point. It would be beneficial in any boat, single or dual. So I'll make you two singles. They will have 3-terminal header strips, like the Receiver, just plug in-line. Remember, they are not required for Opto-Coupled ESC's, that have no BEC.

The sure fire way to tell if you should use one is to use your ohm meter and see if there is a connection from the ground on the signal cable for the ESC to the (-) battery side on the ESC. If its an open, you don't need it. Don't touch the metal tips on the Ohm Meter while measuring, it will read you body's conductivity and give you a confusing reading. This should read a complete open...

[CraigP]

Here's the link to the mixer. They built it for tanks and bots (much bigger market than boats) but will work on boats great. On first run, turn the pot all the way CCW. Do NOT force the pot past the stop! Just turn very lightly until it stops. These pots will not take any rough handling, like all micro, surface mount pots. If you need tighter turns, then start to turn back CW until you have it where you want it.

https://www.banggood.com/DasMikro-RC-Signal-Mixer-For-Tank-Dual-Bidirectinal-Motor-Control-p-1162275.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

[CraigP]

Wow, that is so nice Craig. So you would need one to go inline(instead of Y) or one on each esc? And same question for the Mtroniks one since I ordered 10 of them. I know, impulsive!! I could cancel the order.

Shawn, I'll send you a parts list, or email it. These are so simple to build, once you have these I think you can copy it no problem. Once you have your parts, then just build as needed!

[golfito]

Hello Craig, I can wait for the design of the mixer and build it. Some components can be found in my city. I could try with one to see how they work.

[golfito]

I want to tell him that I would like to have the construction scheme to make it in my house. As I do with the opto.

[golfito]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DasMikro-RC-Signal-Mixer-For-Tank-Dual-Bidirectinal-Motor-Control-/172739479292?_ul=AR

[TRUCKPULL]

Here is a US supplier.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mtroniks-ZGM-Zero-Glitch-Module-Opto-Isolator/112604703004?hash=item1a37c3691c:g:3acAAOSw4GZZ5O-p

Larry