Great!
Common caps for two escs?
Collapse
X
-
Comment
-
I thought I could add some small capacitors between the + and - cable. C: 100mfx16v
26841187_1785669751734758_897974121688292798_o.jpg
26804530_1785667498401650_4481247027781583125_n.jpg
I have to make the bridges and the welds still.Comment
-
That’s way too much capacitance. It only requires .01uF, because the opto uses so little current. Large caps causes current spikes on power up, so you want to watch that. It could put the BEC’s in the ESC’s into current shutdown. The ceramic type cap, value .01-0.1uF, will be best. Sorry to tell you, but you want it right. The layout looks great!Comment
-
Golfito... you are exhibiting some mad skills. You have a passion for this.
Craig I put in my cancellation of order request with Mtroniks so we shall see. I think at current moment I only would need to set up my BlownAway twin with isolation.
So I could use a dual isolator on that one.
Out of curiosity, would one still need to disconnect the red wire from the BEC equipped ESC’s when plugging in the isolator?Comment
-
Yes, each BEC inside each ESC powers up each opto-isolator. So the output signal from the opto-isolator is biased from the supply voltage from each ESC, and any noise is the same, so the ESC runs clean. The input is not wired to the signal (+) on the board, so no need to remove any red wires. The opto-isolator I built is wired like the Futaba servo wiring.Comment
-
Golfito... you are exhibiting some mad skills. You have a passion for this.
Craig I put in my cancellation of order request with Mtroniks so we shall see. I think at current moment I only would need to set up my BlownAway twin with isolation.
So I could use a dual isolator on that one.
Out of curiosity, would one still need to disconnect the red wire from the BEC equipped ESC’s when plugging in the isolator?
Note to Forum: I’m building this has a favor to Shawn, for no sale. He is just covering the shipping. Since the unit is not being sold, I figured this does not need to follow Forum rules for selling items. If I’m in error, then please let me know, thank you.Comment
-
26910559_1785692478399152_4621563160742118855_o.jpg27021965_1785692528399147_2274054406197546512_o.jpg
27021313_1785692358399164_4825478616697059420_o.jpg
The most similar and according to my friend google ... this one that says 104 would be correct. It is very, very tiny.Comment
-
Shawn, email me your address. The one I built today is yours. I’ll let you know what the shipping is and PM you my PayPal info. Please read response to Golfito, you do not remove any red wires.
Note to Forum: I’m building this has a favor to Shawn, for no sale. He is just covering the shipping. Since the unit is not being sold, I figured this does not need to follow Forum rules for selling items. If I’m in error, then please let me know, thank you."Look good doin' it"
See the fleetComment
-
Yes Jesse, my simulation results is showing there is a need in all boats, unless you run an Opto-Coupled ESC, like the HV SW ESC’s. The isolation is already in there. I’m finding that sourcing the Receiver power from a BEC inside the ESC is a major step backwards from the days we all ran dedicated Rec batteries. There’s just too much noise at the ESC to make it the common ground. I’m changing my DF29 Mono, with a Turnigy 180 to using an ext. BEC. Then the int. BEC just provides power for the output of the isolator. I think all boat ESC’s should be opto-isolated.
The schematic on Post #64 is for a one input system, where the two motors will always run the same speed. A two input opto is for Chan mixing, with a Trans/Rec that has that capability. Then you will use two channels on the Rec, one for each motor. Also need 2 input for an Ext. Mixing board, such as those posted on this thread.Comment
Comment