Common caps for two escs?

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  • golfito
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2011
    • 296

    #106
    Great!

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    • ray schrauwen
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Apr 2007
      • 9471

      #107
      Originally posted by CraigP
      So you guys are good with the off-the-shelf isolator?
      I suppose. Knowing now what you have found about ripple coming through, not so much.

      Nice circuits. It's a skill I wish I was much better at.
      Nortavlag Bulc

      Comment

      • golfito
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2011
        • 296

        #108
        I thought I could add some small capacitors between the + and - cable. C: 100mfx16v

        26841187_1785669751734758_897974121688292798_o.jpg
        26804530_1785667498401650_4481247027781583125_n.jpg

        I have to make the bridges and the welds still.
        Attached Files

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        • CraigP
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • May 2017
          • 1464

          #109
          That’s way too much capacitance. It only requires .01uF, because the opto uses so little current. Large caps causes current spikes on power up, so you want to watch that. It could put the BEC’s in the ESC’s into current shutdown. The ceramic type cap, value .01-0.1uF, will be best. Sorry to tell you, but you want it right. The layout looks great!

          Comment

          • srislash
            Not there yet
            • Mar 2011
            • 7673

            #110
            Golfito... you are exhibiting some mad skills. You have a passion for this.

            Craig I put in my cancellation of order request with Mtroniks so we shall see. I think at current moment I only would need to set up my BlownAway twin with isolation.
            So I could use a dual isolator on that one.

            Out of curiosity, would one still need to disconnect the red wire from the BEC equipped ESC’s when plugging in the isolator?

            Comment

            • golfito
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2011
              • 296

              #111
              Thank you!
              I think I have some ceramic capacitors out there ... the ones I used in brushed 540 engines.

              Using the opto plate you must leave the red wires coming from the bec of the esc.

              Comment

              • CraigP
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • May 2017
                • 1464

                #112
                Originally posted by golfito
                Thank you!
                I think I have some ceramic capacitors out there ... the ones I used in brushed 540 engines.

                Using the opto plate you must leave the red wires coming from the bec of the esc.
                Yes, each BEC inside each ESC powers up each opto-isolator. So the output signal from the opto-isolator is biased from the supply voltage from each ESC, and any noise is the same, so the ESC runs clean. The input is not wired to the signal (+) on the board, so no need to remove any red wires. The opto-isolator I built is wired like the Futaba servo wiring.

                Comment

                • CraigP
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • May 2017
                  • 1464

                  #113
                  Originally posted by srislash
                  Golfito... you are exhibiting some mad skills. You have a passion for this.

                  Craig I put in my cancellation of order request with Mtroniks so we shall see. I think at current moment I only would need to set up my BlownAway twin with isolation.
                  So I could use a dual isolator on that one.

                  Out of curiosity, would one still need to disconnect the red wire from the BEC equipped ESC’s when plugging in the isolator?
                  Shawn, email me your address. The one I built today is yours. I’ll let you know what the shipping is and PM you my PayPal info. Please read response to Golfito, you do not remove any red wires.

                  Note to Forum: I’m building this has a favor to Shawn, for no sale. He is just covering the shipping. Since the unit is not being sold, I figured this does not need to follow Forum rules for selling items. If I’m in error, then please let me know, thank you.

                  Comment

                  • golfito
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2011
                    • 296

                    #114
                    26910559_1785692478399152_4621563160742118855_o.jpg27021965_1785692528399147_2274054406197546512_o.jpg
                    27021313_1785692358399164_4825478616697059420_o.jpg

                    The most similar and according to my friend google ... this one that says 104 would be correct. It is very, very tiny.

                    Comment

                    • CraigP
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • May 2017
                      • 1464

                      #115
                      You got it! Perfect size! It’s been so long since I’ve worked with thru-hole parts, brings back good memories...

                      Comment

                      • golfito
                        Senior Member
                        • Sep 2011
                        • 296

                        #116
                        I discovered that the yellow color means that it is 400v and the 104 equals 0.1mf ... what do you think Craig? I leave these or eliminate them directly ?.

                        Comment

                        • CraigP
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • May 2017
                          • 1464

                          #117
                          Originally posted by golfito
                          I discovered that the yellow color means that it is 400v and the 104 equals 0.1mf ... what do you think Craig? I leave these or eliminate them directly ?.
                          Good to go!

                          Comment

                          • golfito
                            Senior Member
                            • Sep 2011
                            • 296

                            #118
                            Thank you!

                            Comment

                            • Jesse J
                              scale FE racer
                              • Aug 2008
                              • 7116

                              #119
                              Originally posted by CraigP
                              Shawn, email me your address. The one I built today is yours. I’ll let you know what the shipping is and PM you my PayPal info. Please read response to Golfito, you do not remove any red wires.

                              Note to Forum: I’m building this has a favor to Shawn, for no sale. He is just covering the shipping. Since the unit is not being sold, I figured this does not need to follow Forum rules for selling items. If I’m in error, then please let me know, thank you.
                              Nice gesture Craig! So to put it simply, this unit is still recommended with the set up I attached in post #57?
                              "Look good doin' it"
                              See the fleet

                              Comment

                              • CraigP
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • May 2017
                                • 1464

                                #120
                                Yes Jesse, my simulation results is showing there is a need in all boats, unless you run an Opto-Coupled ESC, like the HV SW ESC’s. The isolation is already in there. I’m finding that sourcing the Receiver power from a BEC inside the ESC is a major step backwards from the days we all ran dedicated Rec batteries. There’s just too much noise at the ESC to make it the common ground. I’m changing my DF29 Mono, with a Turnigy 180 to using an ext. BEC. Then the int. BEC just provides power for the output of the isolator. I think all boat ESC’s should be opto-isolated.

                                The schematic on Post #64 is for a one input system, where the two motors will always run the same speed. A two input opto is for Chan mixing, with a Trans/Rec that has that capability. Then you will use two channels on the Rec, one for each motor. Also need 2 input for an Ext. Mixing board, such as those posted on this thread.
                                Last edited by CraigP; 01-21-2018, 12:07 PM. Reason: Additional information.

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