Tired of hobby wing

[CraigP]

Just “turn it down” by starting off with a small prop. Run it, check temps and speed, then work your way to larger props. I’m sensing a general misunderstanding with many boat enthusiasts. It’s not the higher voltage alone that makes the system pull more amps. As Terry said, the boat runs on Watts. The biggest contributor to the Watt draw is prop and boat type/ride. A given prop on a given hull, turning a given speed, will pull a given Watt value. So, smaller prop and turning less rpm are two ways to reduce Watts. Watts are Volts X Amps. Voltage is pretty much a given on a specific battery pack. So the variation in amps, up and down the load curve, by varying the throttle, is what varies the Watts. Simply, you keep out of trouble by keeping kv lower and starting with small props.

On all of my boats, I have a fast and slow motor combo. I know that sounds extravagant, but anything over 29” is potentially a real fast moving boat! I drove my 34” hydro foolishly on the fast motor before I, the driver, was ready and paid the price. I crashed my beautiful new boat, hard! Here’s my best advice, on a new boat, assume that YOU, the driver, is the weakest link! Set up and drive it with a slow setup. Usually just a small prop will suffice... Work up to full speed, into some turns, if the boat will handle it. If the boat feels like it’s moving farther down the course than your concentration (called “getting out ahead of you”) then you need to hang with that setup until it feels “slow” to you. Then move up to a faster setup. Nothing is worse that hearing that sickening “Thud” as your new boat, with all that work you put into it, hits something!

[CraigP]

Going down from 6S even with comparable KV's will draw more amps. I have 2 V3 one Hobby Wing and one SeaKing that are garbage. LVC dialed out and BEC replaced with a battery and still cut out at full throttle with a 1515. Just don't buy them is all you can do. My $40 Flycolor 150 is better but not enough for a 40X82. With over 7 dead horse 180's and 220-200 Swordfish I could have two more MGM's that work and last. A 28026 lite is I believe under $300. It's a pay me now or pay me later deal.

https://www.mgm-controllers.com/race-boats/speed-controllers-escs-1/tmm-28026-3-for-race-boats-x2-series-lite.html

Mic

Well, here’s a case about it all being about setup. I have a 34” hydro, running on 8s with a 4082, 1250kv motor, turning an M545 prop that runs in the mid 60’s on the straights, with a SW 150A ESC in it. I’m only pulling 90-100A max on this setup. So it’s hard to make general statements in FE! I am replacing the ESC now with a 220A to test a 4s, class legal setup. So what Mic is saying is correct, dropping volts alone on a given setup will pull more amps, to make the Watts the setup needs to perform at speed. You’re actually safer by keeping your volts higher, as long as you follow the other things mentioned by me and others above.

[Beaux]

Cool I'll order a couple of props. Thanks for sharing.

[Fluid]

Going down from 6S even with comparable KV's will draw more amps...

This might be misleading to some, and is true only if the load remains the same. Simply dropping the voltage from 6S to 4S with no other changes will substantially reduce the amp draw. To get the same speed with the lower voltage will increase amps by ~50%.



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[CraigP]

Fluid’s right, I missed something. Dropping the volts on a given setup will reduce rpms, thus reducing amp draw. Mic is right too, dropping the volts with “comparable” kv, meaning you raise the kv at lower volts to keep the prop spinning at the same comparable rpm, will raise amps. Lots to keep up in the noodle!

[T.S.Davis]

I feel like we're having a discussion trying to teach people that read but rarely post. For those that know some of this rot, don't be offended.

Think about a 35" boat running 6s. Think of watts as horse power. This makes sense to people. 1 horse is about 745 watts btw. Takes a certain amount of power to push a vehicle to a desired speed.

Let's say to get a 36" boat to 50 mph takes 2200 watts or just under 3 hp. Watts/volts = amps. So on 6s it would take..... 2200watts/22.2volts = 99 amps or so.

Now if you want to go the exact same speed with the exact same boat but you only want to run 4s it still takes approximately 2200 watts. But you have less volts so....... 2200watts/14.8 volts = 148amps. (There's Jay's 50% increase) Giver er take. All hypothetical. 2200 watts isn't necessarily the magic number for 50 mph. Just an example.

If you run the same exact prop on 4s that you do on 6s you don't get the same watts. To get the same watts out on 4s you have to add propeller diameter until your watts come back up.

This is what Craig has been preaching for some time. More volts x less amps for the same watts out. The down side being that in some cases the smaller prop can't push the boat in question. The size to volt ratio in both organizations was given some thought. The lengths are the same for both so it wasn't entirely arbitrary. The boats are fine. The batteries can take it. What the writers didn't anticipate was having such a hard time getting reliable ESC. Seems to be an issue more of late than ever.

[Erroneous]

Can’t wait to see what Castle does.

[Peter A]

Just “turn it down” by starting off with a small prop. Run it, check temps and speed, then work your way to larger props. I’m sensing a general misunderstanding with many boat enthusiasts. It’s not the higher voltage alone that makes the system pull more amps. As Terry said, the boat runs on Watts. The biggest contributor to the Watt draw is prop and boat type/ride. A given prop on a given hull, turning a given speed, will pull a given Watt value. So, smaller prop and turning less rpm are two ways to reduce Watts. Watts are Volts X Amps. Voltage is pretty much a given on a specific battery pack. So the variation in amps, up and down the load curve, by varying the throttle, is what varies the Watts. Simply, you keep out of trouble by keeping kv lower and starting with small props.

On all of my boats, I have a fast and slow motor combo. I know that sounds extravagant, but anything over 29” is potentially a real fast moving boat! I drove my 34” hydro foolishly on the fast motor before I, the driver, was ready and paid the price. I crashed my beautiful new boat, hard! Here’s my best advice, on a new boat, assume that YOU, the driver, is the weakest link! Set up and drive it with a slow setup. Usually just a small prop will suffice... Work up to full speed, into some turns, if the boat will handle it. If the boat feels like it’s moving farther down the course than your concentration (called “getting out ahead of you”) then you need to hang with that setup until it feels “slow” to you. Then move up to a faster setup. Nothing is worse that hearing that sickening “Thud” as your new boat, with all that work you put into it, hits something!

That's some good advice Craig. There is no end to the people that think in their own minds that they can run a 70mph boat having never done it before. In reality newbies should start at perhaps 40mph on an oval and speed it up when they have learned to run AROUND the bouys , and have some experience racing with other boats. Can't say how many times I have seen and still see guys wanting boats to go as fast as possible, but they just do not handle well, nor can they drive them. The end result is broken boats, theirs and others, wasted time and money and discouraged boaters. Guys walk away from the hobby and/or there ends up with bad feelings within the club or organisation. It just doesn't need to happen.

[jevmax]

Just “turn it down” by starting off with a small prop. Run it, check temps and speed, then work your way to larger props. I’m sensing a general misunderstanding with many boat enthusiasts. It’s not the higher voltage alone that makes the system pull more amps. As Terry said, the boat runs on Watts. The biggest contributor to the Watt draw is prop and boat type/ride. A given prop on a given hull, turning a given speed, will pull a given Watt value. So, smaller prop and turning less rpm are two ways to reduce Watts. Watts are Volts X Amps. Voltage is pretty much a given on a specific battery pack. So the variation in amps, up and down the load curve, by varying the throttle, is what varies the Watts. Simply, you keep out of trouble by keeping kv lower and starting with small props.

On all of my boats, I have a fast and slow motor combo. I know that sounds extravagant, but anything over 29” is potentially a real fast moving boat! I drove my 34” hydro foolishly on the fast motor before I, the driver, was ready and paid the price. I crashed my beautiful new boat, hard! Here’s my best advice, on a new boat, assume that YOU, the driver, is the weakest link! Set up and drive it with a slow setup. Usually just a small prop will suffice... Work up to full speed, into some turns, if the boat will handle it. If the boat feels like it’s moving farther down the course than your concentration (called “getting out ahead of you”) then you need to hang with that setup until it feels “slow” to you. Then move up to a faster setup. Nothing is worse that hearing that sickening “Thud” as your new boat, with all that work you put into it, hits something!

Craig,
It sounds like you are getting it figured out. That’s great. FE boating is so much more fun when you aren’t burning up or breaking nice stuff all the time.

[Doby]

Can’t wait to see what Castle does.

Castle is doing something for boaters???

I thought they abandoned us looonnnggg ago.

[Erroneous]

Castle is doing something for boaters???

I thought they abandoned us looonnnggg ago.

There is a recent post on it. Ill see if I can find it after work.

[Mxkid261]

Castle is doing something for boaters???

I thought they abandoned us looonnnggg ago.

Post 61 https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...rite-ESC/page3

[Erroneous]

[SD Eracer]

I've had a couple of "bad" 180a Hobbywings (Hobbyking branded), similar situation when they would cut out after full power. I think it was an internal issue.

Luckily, with HobbyKings 1 year warranty, I just used my phone to film about 30 seconds of the boat having the cutting out issue, posted on Youtube for Hobbyking to access, and they sent me a new one within a couple of days.

I've had no issues with any of the replacement ESCs they have sent me, this was after 7 months of use before they started acting up.

I've had 180v3 sunk in saltwater for over 30 minutes and still worked fine. In fact, I don't think my RC group members could do what we do without the 180a V3. Most people can't budget $250 or more for a single ESC, but $90 for one with a 1 year warranty, sure.

I run exclusively on 6S with all my boats, with varying either Leopard 4082 1600kv, 4092 1730kv, SSS 4082 2000kv and SSS 4074 2200kv with no issues. Though my most aggressive props are either the Octura 642 or M445 on my single drive, and 447 on my dual drive HPR, which runs dual SSS 4082 2000kv motors.