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So I've been running hobby wing or turnagy 180 amp in all my different boats for a couple of years ,but they don't seem to last long .i run then in a Zonda twin,fighter cat twin ,36" genesis and a spartan ,all have 4082 motors of various KV,all run on 6 s,seems when you really work these ESC they start developing a glitch ,or after 30 seconds they click to 1/2 power ,I have the cell count off of auto,so just asking if others that are running hard are having these problems also? And my next ESC I buy I guess will be SF 200 or 220s,I pretty much just do speed runs till the lipo kicks out ,the ESC are warm to the touch ,about the same as the motor ,they just don't seem to be able to run full out on 6 s ,thanks
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Some club members like the HW-180s and have good luck with them. The Swordfish have, on the whole, been less reliable. ESCs are the current weak link.
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I thought maybe I needed more amps ,as in a 220, the 240 amp is to expensive ,so do I just keep replacing the HW ? I don't want to get into cap banks and all that ,I did that last year with some BBRC ,thanksComment
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I'm also leaning towards the gas boats ,they seem to be more user friendly now ,I had the trucks years ago ,Comment
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I have had gas (gasoline) boats and they are more frustrating than the electrics. Once you get the electric boat dialed in, it works every time. The gas boats always seem to need some tuning on the carb. I built this boat in 2011, took me a few weeks to get it dialed in with the right ESC's and props. I had the Hobby Wing 180's but they were not robust enough. I put the Hydra 240's in and it's bullet proof. I was out of the hobby for a few years, this boat sat on the shelf in my office for 4 years. I plugged the batteries in and it came to life like I dialed it in yesterday. If this had the gas engine in it sitting for 3-4 years it would have taken some work to get it going.
That said....I like the gas boats still. I may build another one in the future but it will be big, twin engine, twin scale Merc #8 outdrives and electric start.Comment
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I think it’s important to add a hefty over rate to the ESC. I use 30-40% as a standard. This is no different than design engineers using mosfet data specs as published, the design usually fails. All of these specs, whether an assembly like the ESC or the discrete parts have data published to sell them, meaning very optimistic and ideal, which the real world ain’t! The prudent user realizes this and compensates to get a successful outcome.Comment
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.....varying Kv on 6s?
You can crest 180 amps quick on a 6s setup.Noisy personComment
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You can crest out the amp rating on any ESC or battery voltage if you don’t run your numbers... Kv and prop have to be selected to achieve the desired results, which I’m going to assume does not include smoking the ESC. Terry is pointing out that as battery voltage is reduced, more current is drawn for a given setup and it’s easier the smoke your stuff.
I’d be running 8s on a 36” sport boat... I’m running 6s on my 32” boat...Comment
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A three-month-old thread so it may not be of help to the OP, but many of the HW180s had issues with their LVC. Most racers disabled it and the controllers worked a lot better. This is what the OP seems to have been experiencing.
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I questioned the kV because of the tendency for some to recommend much higher kV than they should.Noisy personComment
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Good point Terry, it could be caused by voltage depression from excessive amp draw, that from running a 2400 Kv motor on 6S...
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2400kv on 6s? 53,000rpm.... And I thought my 1450kv motor was a bit on the hot side. Geez... Do you guys actually run that setup?Comment
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Craig, nope I wouldn't.
Guys keep recommending nonsense and then when the equipment fails the testimonials start coming in. "I don't know why it doesn't work for you. I run that all day long" is my absolute favorite. I'm not saying this is the case for the OP. I don't know what he's running. If it's a high kv setup the smallest of things can rapidly increase amp draw. Heck, thick grease on a colder day can screw you up. I run thinner grease when it's frigid.
The 180 V2 was super forgiving. You could go over the 180amps for a few seconds at a time but the V3 isn't as tough. Then the LVC issue could kick in too if the batteries are pushed too hard. Especially on the V3. The voltage available is a curve. The more you burn (amps) the lower the voltage available. I know you are aware of this Craig. For others though.
For the average reader/lurker consider this. A 42mm propeller spinning at 50,000+ rpm is throwing water everywhere. You're not actually getting all the thrust. It's wasted watts. If you drop down in Kv you can run a larger prop with a larger blade. That blade is more efficient. Less slip. More of the watts out become thrust. My 6s mono runs 56mm of prop. Think of it like an NHRA dragster. The cars are fast as long as the motor turns the tires and those tires propel the car. If the motor is turning the tires one p'scillion rpm and their just spinning what good are the rpm? Then what happens when those high RPM tires hook up, break loose, hook up, break loose, hook up? Spike, spike, spike hammering the setup to bits. The weak link gives up. For us..............ESC.
Long narrow cats can't always handle the large blades but food fer thought.Noisy personComment
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I have a new HobbyWing 180 on 6s just starting to set it up with leo 4074, may by I should turn it down to 4 or 5s just in case. It's in a 35 in. Pirate.Comment
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Going down from 6S even with comparable KV's will draw more amps. I have 2 V3 one Hobby Wing and one SeaKing that are garbage. LVC dialed out and BEC replaced with a battery and still cut out at full throttle with a 1515. Just don't buy them is all you can do. My $40 Flycolor 150 is better but not enough for a 40X82. With over 7 dead horse 180's and 220-200 Swordfish I could have two more MGM's that work and last. A 28026 lite is I believe under $300. It's a pay me now or pay me later deal.
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Mic Halbrehder
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