Thanks for the chart
Huge difference between esc temps and motor temps
Collapse
X
-
-
You are most welcome.
But even better is one of these cell checkers.
They give you voltages, and capacity remaining as a percentage. For both pack, and individual cells. Very handy little unit.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...emp-eossentry3
Also try not to run at part throttle too much. That's is a quick way to burn out an ESC.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320Comment
-
Thanks for the tip. I had to lower my LVC to 3.2V because it was tripping too early at 3.4V. The boat runs much better now and I'm in the process of fine tuning my run times on a 2 pack configuration. 3.55V was after 3.5min, next time out I'll stop at 3min until I start running with 4 batteries.Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)Comment
-
Are you sure it was tripping too early? Or was it tripping at the right time to leave the packs at over 3.7v/cell, ie 20% capacity remaining, when at rest?See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320Comment
-
Forget the battery stuff for a minute. What about motor timing? If you were running at default on both, that may have something to do with it. Or would that only cause the motor to get hot?Comment
-
That's what was confusing to me. If it's timing, why isn't the motor hot. Even with the battery talk. Why is my esc 140-150 and the motor is at 90-100. If it was too much prop the motor would be hotter tooComment
-
I don't know either of your ESCs but if the ETTI has default switching frequency that can cause much higher ESC temps and depending on the motor the motor may see no difference.Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.Comment
-
Are you saying that I constantly have to reprogram the timing. It's switching the timing on its own?Comment
-
I believe Paul is reffering to the PWM. Do you recall modifying that step? I will have a look at one of my manuals when I am up and moving for the default setting.
Also, Do you have a cap bank on it as recommended by them? Always a good ideaComment
-
-
What size connectors and how much wire between batteries and ESC? Shorter is better. What I am looking at is the yellow connection block as a possible problem.
We will get to PWMComment
-
I have separate water lines to motor. As for the Y's. I heard this many times but I can't just remove the cooling set up I have without tearing out everything. Next time I need to pull out everything I will be eliminating the Y's. But why we are on this subject: there are four cooling tubes on the esc, two on each side stacked vertically on top of each other. Each side has water from a separate pick up. I ran hose with 4mm inside diameter to the Y and then after the Y about 2" of hose (3mm inside diamete) to each cooling tube. This means minimal line after the Y with no kinks or severe bends. But even if flow is restricted to one they are stacked on top of each other so cooling is getting to at least one of them on each side. Plus the cooling plates on top are getting cooling to at least one.
I realize there is a better way to do this but it can't be horrible the way it is. It has to be getting some cooling.
I am using XT90 connectors for the batteries and 8mm bullets from the esc to the motor. I'll send some pics of the battery wires and my parrellel connector wires. All wires are 10 gaugeComment
-
I am suspect of the XT90 plug as well as the cooling lines. I looked the XT's up and cant find the size of bullit. But the dimensions of the housing that I found would not allow big enough connectors for this. How can one expect to give enough power to warrent 8mm connectors at the motor when the battery connector is only 5mm? If it is even that. Neat connector though with the anti spark but you should have 8mm there too. Anti spark is not really necessary for 6s.Comment
Comment