10s2p connections

[urbs00007]

I will be running (4) 5s 5000mah in series and parallel to get 10s 10,000mah. purchased a 48" zelos to run my T.P.5670 800 kv with lite swordfish 300. i would like to mount the 8mm bullet connectors to the hull to allow one hand disconnects and plug-ins. maybe small boards mounted on stand-offs with the appropriate connectors epoxied into the boards vertically. something like the safety disconnects that some organizations require. and maybe bullets could be color coded as to avoid incorrect hookups. any thoughts?

[urbs00007]

I will be running (4) 5s 5000mah in series and parallel to get 10s 10,000mah. purchased a 48" zelos to run my T.P.5670 800 kv with lite swordfish 300. i would like to mount the 8mm bullet connectors to the hull to allow one hand disconnects and plug-ins. maybe small boards mounted on stand-offs with the appropriate connectors epoxied into the boards vertically. something like the safety disconnects that some organizations require. and maybe bullets could be color coded as to avoid incorrect hookups. any thoughts?

this is what I ended up with. 2 sets of 2 batteries. pos to neg both sides, then neg. hookups at the T . never ran 10s2p before. did I do it correctly? pos. bullets were soldered and filled, then drilled and tapped 6-32, then mounted to the floor. plenty strong.

[NativePaul]

It is a parallel harness, but it uses a lot more wire than is needed. It looks like you have added caps to compensate for the extra wire, which is a good idea, but unless you only have one good hand I don't thing adding that much wireisworth it for what little convenience you gain.

[urbs00007]

10s2p

It is a parallel harness, but it uses a lot more wire than is needed. It looks like you have added caps to compensate for the extra wire, which is a good idea, but unless you only have one good hand I don't thing adding that much wireisworth it for what little convenience you gain.

I dont see how I could shorten those positive wires. with the batteries that far foward , how would I get the positive lead from that front pack to the esc? now, I'll admit that I put the batteries as far foward as i could on the battery tray to allow adjustment for cg, and if I need to move back I can shorten those leads. I anticipate a looser running hull because I blueprinted the running surfaces.

[NativePaul]

I don't see why the positives need to be any longer than the negatives, they exit your packs in the same place and have the same length of wire on them don't they?

[urbs00007]

I don't see why the positives need to be any longer than the negatives, they exit your packs in the same place and have the same length of wire on them don't they?

I'm running parallel and series. will run and check temps.

[NativePaul]

I'm running parallel and series.

I know, I still don't see the need for it though.

Where your battery trays and ESCs and wires it looks like you are running your 2x5s packs making up 10s in each side, and paralleling each side to make 10s2p. Have a look at battery orientations, it looks like you could lose several inches of negative and about a foot of positive on each side in the boat, and a couple more inches on each battery, just by putting your packs in head to head rather than nose to tail. A worthwhile gain as it is not just power sapping resistance or unnecessary weight, long Battery to ESC wires increase the ripple voltage and are very hard on the ESC.

[urbs00007]

I know, I still don't see the need for it though.

Where your battery trays and ESCs and wires it looks like you are running your 2x5s packs making up 10s in each side, and paralleling each side to make 10s2p. Have a look at battery orientations, it looks like you could lose several inches of negative and about a foot of positive on each side in the boat, and a couple more inches on each battery, just by putting your packs in head to head rather than nose to tail. A worthwhile gain as it is not just power sapping resistance or unnecessary weight, long Battery to ESC wires increase the ripple voltage and are very hard on the ESC.

appreciate your help, but I'm not understanding how to lose significant wire lengths. photo shows head to head. i can lose 3 inches if i get rid of 90 degree pos connection, but then i need to add alot of neg to get to connection on esc.

[urbs00007]

appreciate your help, but I'm not understanding how to lose significant wire lengths. photo shows head to head. i can lose 3 inches if i get rid of 90 degree pos connection, but then i need to add alot of neg to get to connection on esc.

any response?

[NativePaul]

No, I don't have the same setup to take photos and show you, at this point if you don't see it, you don't see it. I hope the added caps are enough mitigation.

[Peter A]

Urbs, here is my thought. Remove the extra cap bank etc from where it is and un bundle the wires, run the esc +,- wires each side straight to battery packs (connectors on each +,- to suit, re wire the cap bank with separate wires to the +,- at the esc and sit on top of the esc, or closer to it depending on what suits best. That way you get rid of the extra wire length and you can either keep the cap bank or not.

[urbs00007]

10s2p

Urbs, here is my thought. Remove the extra cap bank etc from where it is and un bundle the wires, run the esc +,- wires each side straight to battery packs (connectors on each +,- to suit, re wire the cap bank with separate wires to the +,- at the esc and sit on top of the esc, or closer to it depending on what suits best. That way you get rid of the extra wire length and you can either keep the cap bank or not.

that sounds like a great idea. can i run separate packs to both pos and neg leads like that with 4 wires out of the esc? I assumed they had to be soldered together. thanks for the help.

[Peter A]

I think the - wires have a common connection but the + go to either side of the esc so perhaps put a jumper wire between them so that the esc gets even/balanced power both sides. There is more than one way to 'skin this cat' just think it through. Of course you could just bring the existing wire setup forward on top of the esc to where the batt wires can reach, I figure there is enough height under the canopy, just move the cap bank if it is in the way.

[urbs00007]

I think the - wires have a common connection but the + go to either side of the esc so perhaps put a jumper wire between them so that the esc gets even/balanced power both sides. There is more than one way to 'skin this cat' just think it through. Of course you could just bring the existing wire setup forward on top of the esc to where the batt wires can reach, I figure there is enough height under the canopy, just move the cap bank if it is in the way.

thanks for your help. going to take another look at it.

[urbs00007]

how does this look.